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I just bought a 1989 4x4 ranger with the 2.3 L that smokes bad and uses oil like crazy iam thinking i need to rering it but is there any thing else that could cause it. or is there any thing out there that can make it stop i'v used marvel mystery oil, lucas upper cylinder lube, RESTORE, does any thing work so i dont have to tear into the motor?
i havent done a comparsion check yet and its got 170000 miles on it ive replaced the pcv valve like 100 miles ago before i bought it it set all winter win i got it the first thing i did was cahnge the oil and filter air filter pcv spark plugs and wires anti freze and the all the tranny and differental fluid so at first i was think the rings were gummed up but that was like a month ago and ive put like 500 miles on it so do i need to re ring it or what?
How did the old plugs look, were they oil soaked????
Does it just smoke after, say a all night sit & a morning start up???? If so suspect valve guides or seals
Or does it smoke after you've gotten off a long off ramp, or gone down a long hill with the throttle closed, then back on the gas???? If so suspect worn rings, so the compression check should tattle on them.
Or does it just smoke all the time???? In which case it might be this engine is just plum TARD, you know wore out, just like pawpaw!!!!! LOL
Anyway the compression check, read the plugs & think about how/when it's smoking, should help figure out what's wrong.
**there are no miracles in a can that replace worn metal
Thankyou! From the standpoint of someone who tried many different miracle cures when I was younger, and I finally had to sit myself down and accept that wear is wear, broken parts remain broken, and no oil or mystery fluid will change that! Well spoken sir!
alright i did the comp check and its only like half of wat it should be so its the rings do i need to pull the whole motor to replace them or can i do it with it still in the truck no leaks any where and the thing smokes all the time but expecilly when i hit the gas
It may need to be bored. For the work required, yank the engine, put it on a engine stand, disassemble, then mic the bore and pistons. If you're not sure how to mic a cylinder bore, get a buddy that knows what to do over to your place. You will want to mic each cylinder in multiple places to look for taper as well as out of round. Pistons will needed to be miced in multiple places too. Finally, if you are lucky enough to get by without havong to bore the block, don't forget to cut the ridge before putting it back together.
*You might consider just buying a rebuilt long block or a used engine.
**How you did the test (engine warm, etc etc) as well as what the exact readings (psi) were for each cylinder may have an impact on what I just noted.
ive rebuilt many a 302s and 351s and even a couple of chevy 350 for some friends but never a new ford so i know what has to be done i was just wantting to know if i could just drop the oil pam with out takein out the motor so iam not a ******* and i know how to read micoronmeter