Need some help here, I got two questions. First I've got a 1970 sport custom 2wd, lwb that I wanna soup up for my nephew's first ride, I wanna add some headers, intake, exhaust,cam, four bbl, etc. I was wodering if anyone could advise on their mods that they have on their own vehicles, cause I can't find no stinking parts for 360's! The second one is a 1971 sport custom also, but it was made in Canada and I'm gonna put it back to stock. But I wanna know more about its history. I know it was made in Ontario for a St. Louis dealer, and that's about it. I've written to Ontario Ford but as of yet have heard nothing. Anybody have one of these, or know where I can find out more about the canadian trucks?????? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

>I wanna add some headers, intake, exhaust,cam, four bbl, etc. I was >wodering if anyone could advise on their mods that they have on >their own vehicles, cause I can't find no stinking parts for 360's!

The parts are out there, you just have to know where to look. www.jegs.com, www.summitracing.com for starters. If they don't list the 360, try a 390, the same engine w/different crank and pistons.

If you really want some performance, I'd get a 390 crank, rods, 390 flat top pistons and zero deck the block.

Pull the heads have hardened exhaust seats installed and with a grinder remove the hump in the roof of the exhaust ports, blend/smooth the bowl from the valve to about 1.5" into the ports.

block off/seal off the exhaust crossover passage that goes under the intake with a thin stainless steel plate about the same thickness as the intake gaskets (one per side)

Headers are great! with the heads off port match them because most don't line up too well. look closely at the gasket as most don't line up and require cutting around bolt holes to fit without leaking.

Edlebrock performer RPM intake or stock 390 S code 4v if your on a budget. The S code as an 'S' about 1" tall on the #1 runner behind the water neck.

Toss the points for a Pertronix setup w/coil (about $100)

the cam choice should be a dual pattern (longer exhaust dur and more lift) something in the 210~230 @ 50 and 510~550 lift should work well. I'm using a Crower and have heard other like them too, they have about a dozen choice for the FE.

If you pull the block, you should do the standard FE oiling mods:
drill out the passage from the oil pump to the oil filter adapter from 3/8" to 7/16 or 1/2" and blend the passages smooth. Use a HV oil pump and match the oil feed holes on the main bearing saddles with a grinder.

That should get you started.... You should also discuss who is going to pay for the speeding tickets too

 

Now that's the kinda info I was looking for . Sounds like you have one of these of your own? Do you have a ballpark figure on horsepower and torque for that motor? What kinda of valves would you reccommend? How about size wise? The heads sound okay but I'm sure I gotta a few crispy fried valves. Also you mentioned headers, where did you get yours, and did you have any problem with clearance? Thanks again for the info that was more than I could of ever hoped to get!!


Oh yeah, if it runs that good how are they gonna catch me?

 

>Now that's the kinda info I was looking for . Sounds
>like you have one of these of your own?
I got two, a 68 360 2wd long bed and a 73 F250 4x4 w/428

Do you have a ballpark figure on horsepower and torque for that motor? the stock 360 is going to be about 215~240 and about 350 torque. the 390 is about 275HP and 427 torque. With some mods, the 390 should get into the 375~400HP range and 450 torque.

>What kinda of valves would you reccommend? How about size
>wise? The heads sound okay but I'm sure I gotta a few
>crispy fried valves.
I went with the stock size because the cam I selected kicks in at 1200rpm and the heads are ported but the smaller runner type. this gives me better low/mid range response and excellent torque. My rpm range is 1200~3800 w/redline of about 5300.

For a higher revving engine, you can upgrade the valves to the cobra jet size but you really should match everything together. I would talk to some of the cam people on their tech line, I've found some very good tech there.


>Also you mentioned headers, where did
>you get yours, and did you have any problem with clearance?
The 68 has a C6 and I had to bend the linkage a bit to get clearance but no problems. Starter access is a hassle, use a heat shield! I think the biggest problem is sealing, I had to custom cut the gaskets and round the holes for proper fit.

I got mine from a local shop but I think www.jegs.com would be the next choice.

 

Since the valves and heads are great for the 390's/410's, 428's etc. they are big enough for your 360 but will benefit from a bit of clean up around the valve stems, Even if you use any 4bbl manifold you can find at the wreckers and a 550cfm holly, with a set of headers the motor will really spring to life. I have one in a 4600# camper special and it feels great even with the poor cam they came with. There is always someone with more who will be faster unless you have an infinate amount of money to spend.
BTW guys: what is the rod length in the 360's? same as the 390's?
ALL my books have little to say about the 360 motor other than it is the same as the 390 but for a shorter stroke. This has to be either be made up in the rod or piston--which?
Michael

 

Both the rods and the pistons were different. The 360 rods were 6.54" and the 390s were 6.488".

 

>ALL my books have little to say about the 360 motor other
>than it is the same as the 390 but for a shorter stroke.
>This has to be either be made up in the rod or
>piston--which?
>Michael

Michael, rod length and piston height have nothing to do with stroke. You can add an inch to the rod length, or to piston height, and the stroke and displacement will still be the same. Stroke is determined entirely by the crankshaft.

 

>>ALL my books have little to say about the 360 motor other
>>than it is the same as the 390 but for a shorter stroke.
>>This has to be either be made up in the rod or
>>piston--which?
>>Michael
>
>Michael, rod length and piston height have nothing to do
>with stroke. You can add an inch to the rod length, or to
>piston height, and the stroke and displacement will still be
>the same. Stroke is determined entirely by the crankshaft.

This is true BUT unless you correct for a stroke change by changing either the rod length or the pin to top of piston ditance, you'll have the wrong deck height IE the piston will be too high or low at TDC
My question WAS which had been adjusted in that all my manuals had nothing about the 360's rod length. This has now been answered by several members: the 360's rod length is the same as the 352's.
Now I gotta see if I have a set of 360 rods in my pile.
cheers!

 

I've got a set if you need some or all. Drop me an email if you need any.

 

 

Great! I've got six of them which doesn't quite make it. what do you want including shipping to 93420 (central coast of california)?

 

Give me an email.
smurray@mmcable.com