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I have been reading on the subject of the 10k, 15k mod and I was wondering what my mpg will go to and is it ok to pull a 30ft RV trailer with it. Since I live in Montana, I would like to pull those mountain passes a little better with out blowing up the truck and increase my MPG.
1999 F250SD, 109000 miles, Auto tranny, and Straight pipe exhaust with no mods-YET.
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Last edited by gunfighter1; May 9, 2006 at 09:34 PM.
i would recommend a variable 10k mod where you can turn it back to stock but before you do any engine mods you will need guages especially with a big trailer like that. you need to keep an eye on egts and trans temp. my mpg went up with a chip and the 10k mod it did make a noticable difference in power though and also black smoke
Yes, guages, guages, guages.
Then get some big air intake, big exhaust, beef up your transmission to handle the extra power with a big cooler and a better valve body.
Then you are safe to add the power without worrying about a breakdown.
I agree, adjustable power and gauges are a must while towing, tranny modifications... Accumulator body, Torque convertor, Trans Cooler are all great mods for that tranny too. We have sold so many exchange transmission and 90% of the time the failure on the stock trans was either heat related or worn clutches caused by pulse modulated shifting that drags the clutch out between shifts and inefficient torque convertors creating too much heat.
Recommendations
Edge Juice with Attitude, come with shift on the fly capability, gauges that monitor and protect your motor.
Accumulator Body, firm up the shift, higher clutch apply pressure, eliminates the pulse modulated shift preventing premature clutch wear.
Tranny Cooler, to better cool the trans fluid, #1 killer of the E4OD and 4R100
Torque Convertor, will lower the stall speed resulting in lower trans temps, better fluid coupling improving HP transfer to the rear tires and better fuel economy. Upgrade lock up clutches to insure no T/C slippage.
WOW sounds like I am better off leaving the truck stock.
I used to be a long haul driver so with that in mind, when I climb a mountian, I let the truck pull down to 55 and then take it out of overdrive and just set the rpm on about 2200 and let her go.
This way the truck is not over reving or overheating.
Now for another question, what about the programers I have been reading about, putting it in safe tow.
Bob.
WOW sounds like I am better off leaving the truck stock.
I used to be a long haul driver so with that in mind, when I climb a mountian, I let the truck pull down to 55 and then take it out of overdrive and just set the rpm on about 2200 and let her go.
This way the truck is not over reving or overheating.
Now for another question, what about the programers I have been reading about, putting it in safe tow.
Bob.
even in a stock truck guages are a good idea especially when towing
Dale Isley at Tymar told me he has seen stock trucks with stock intake, exhaust, and tuning hit 1300 degrees when pushed hard. Absolutely YES on the gauges, unless you are going to leave it stock and NEVER pull a heavy load.
Especially a boost gauge.... a boost bauge is a great indicator of your performance, its the easiest way to tell if something is not right with the motor, if you see your boost numbers dropping you know something is wrong.
Yes, guages, guages, guages.
Then get some big air intake, big exhaust, beef up your transmission to handle the extra power with a big cooler and a better valve body.
Then you are safe to add the power without worrying about a breakdown.
Hi Kwik, I see everyone talking about a valve body on a transmission. Can you tell me what it is? What kind of cooler do you recommend?
basically, the valve body is well a body that holds valves that control the shift firmness and smoothness. first off guys around here (including me) just got internal parts to modify the stock valve body (which is called the sonnax valve and tricumulator springs). but, someone started selling complete new bodies that already include those parts but also have some other nifty doodads in them that supposedly make them better. im still running the sonnax/springs combo, and i like it just fine. i'd have to ride in a truck with a valve body to convince me to buy one. typically the sonnax/springs kit runs around $50, and the valve body is $225 plus core i believe.
i would recommend a variable 10k mod where you can turn it back to stock but before you do any engine mods you will need guages especially with a big trailer like that. you need to keep an eye on egts and trans temp. my mpg went up with a chip and the 10k mod it did make a noticable difference in power though and also black smoke
Maybe a stupid question, but what is the 10K mod???
It's when you put a ten thousand ohm resistor in the circut for the ICP sensor(Injection control pressure sensor) to fool the engine into injectng more fuel, even though it doesn't want to. I've used it for 25,000 miles, works VERY well for how much I put into it. I just bent the resistor and stuck it in under the purple ring on the wiring harness. Someone else could tell you witch two to hook the resistor up to, but I'll try and get a picture in here sometime.
basically, the valve body is well a body that holds valves that control the shift firmness and smoothness. first off guys around here (including me) just got internal parts to modify the stock valve body (which is called the sonnax valve and tricumulator springs). but, someone started selling complete new bodies that already include those parts but also have some other nifty doodads in them that supposedly make them better. im still running the sonnax/springs combo, and i like it just fine. i'd have to ride in a truck with a valve body to convince me to buy one. typically the sonnax/springs kit runs around $50, and the valve body is $225 plus core i believe.
Thank you for shedding the light on what a valve body is.
It's when you put a ten thousand ohm resistor in the circut for the ICP sensor(Injection control pressure sensor) to fool the engine into injectng more fuel, even though it doesn't want to. I've used it for 25,000 miles, works VERY well for how much I put into it. I just bent the resistor and stuck it in under the purple ring on the wiring harness. Someone else could tell you witch two to hook the resistor up to, but I'll try and get a picture in here sometime.
Does the 10K mod interfere with the programming on the chip? If the chip is trying to control the fuel delivery, why would you want to change that?