ebvp removal??
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 604
Likes: 3
ebvp removal??
How do people figure removing the ebvp piston and plugging the hole for the rod(ebvp) will starve the turbo for oil?? I dont see how this would affect anything. That area is filled with oil regardless, all you are doing is removing the large spring and piston. Unless im missing something. I did this 13000 miles ago and see no difference. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Matty, that's sort of correct. What you've done sounds like it might be ok though.
The EBPV shuts by using oil pressure, which would normally go to the turbo bearings, and redirecting it to activate the EBPV. In a truck where the EBPV is still present, this isn't a big problem because if the valve is shut, the turbo won't build much boost. When you step on the throttle, the exhaust backpressure sensor will also sense the increased pressure and open the valve, thus returning the oil flow to the turbo and letting boost build normally.
The problem comes when some guts their EBPV, but leaves the rod and EBPV solenoid in place. If those items are left in place, the truck will attempt to shut the EBPV when it's cold. If there is no valve, but the actuator is still in place turbo is allowed to spin up, possibly without oil flow going to the bearings because the oil is being used to activate the EBPV solenoid.
You've removed the large spring and piston though, so oil flow may not be redirected away from the turbo.
The EBPV shuts by using oil pressure, which would normally go to the turbo bearings, and redirecting it to activate the EBPV. In a truck where the EBPV is still present, this isn't a big problem because if the valve is shut, the turbo won't build much boost. When you step on the throttle, the exhaust backpressure sensor will also sense the increased pressure and open the valve, thus returning the oil flow to the turbo and letting boost build normally.
The problem comes when some guts their EBPV, but leaves the rod and EBPV solenoid in place. If those items are left in place, the truck will attempt to shut the EBPV when it's cold. If there is no valve, but the actuator is still in place turbo is allowed to spin up, possibly without oil flow going to the bearings because the oil is being used to activate the EBPV solenoid.
You've removed the large spring and piston though, so oil flow may not be redirected away from the turbo.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
i quote dieselsite directly:
If you have removed your backpressure valve EBV from the outlet of the turbo, you need this pedestal.
Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?
A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.
Q. Is there anyway to leave my EBV style pedestal in the truck and still remove the actual butterfly valve from the outlet housing on the turbo?
A. Yes, leave the rod in place in the pedestal, but make sure to remove the sensor plugged in the pedestal base. You will need to find a way to make sure the rod stays in a horizontal position or oil leakage can occur from the outlet hole.
If you have removed your backpressure valve EBV from the outlet of the turbo, you need this pedestal.
Q. If I disconnect the sensor, some say this will throw a code ,so they remove the turbo, cut the actuator rod off, and tap the hole in the pedestal and put a plug in it with the sensor still plugged. Is this "ok" to do?
A. If you simply plug the hole and leave the sensor plugged in, you may cause yourself the loss of a turbo from lack of oil flow. Let me explain. The same feed port that feeds the turbo bearing is feeding the EBV piston. There is one supply port and one return port in the pedestal. When the EBP sensor sends the signal to the pedestal to shut the valve,which is not there in this case, the oil dumps off to the return port in the pedestal with no resistance. This is the same return port as the one for the turbo. The piston separated the two when it is was properly used from the factory. Basically, while the valve is being actuated or attempted to in your case the turbo gets no oil or very little. The turbo bearing is the highest place in the engine for oil to travel and it will follow the path of least resistance. If you remove this piston in the pedestal, you MUST not allow computer control of the valve any longer. You must disconnect the sensor from the pedestal. Yes, you will get a code (not a light) telling you the valve is non-operational, but it's the only way to do it.
Q. Is there anyway to leave my EBV style pedestal in the truck and still remove the actual butterfly valve from the outlet housing on the turbo?
A. Yes, leave the rod in place in the pedestal, but make sure to remove the sensor plugged in the pedestal base. You will need to find a way to make sure the rod stays in a horizontal position or oil leakage can occur from the outlet hole.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
Definantly leave your piston in place!!! The oil must travel in one side of the turbo and out the other. I did mine about 3 months ago and thought long and hard about this. I will show an easy to do it if need be but please don't take the piston out!! The oil will come in and go out just as fast and not even see the turbo bearings!!! Hope this helps!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by lancer
Definantly leave your piston in place!!! The oil must travel in one side of the turbo and out the other. I did mine about 3 months ago and thought long and hard about this. I will show an easy to do it if need be but please don't take the piston out!! The oil will come in and go out just as fast and not even see the turbo bearings!!! Hope this helps!!
) corrected.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
There has to be a way to block the port to the piston once it's removed and in so doing it would direct all the oil to the turbo bearings. Drill, tap, and plug with a small NPT fitting comes to mind.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
I took my piston out. I tapped the threads on the shaft down another inch or so. I than put a nut on the shaft followed by a large washer and than a rubber seal. Than i put the piston back in the hole.It sits about center in the bore. Than on the outside of the casing i put a rubber seal followed by a washer than a nut. Piston in place and everything is hunky dorry!! Takes about 20 minutes. 
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New User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
OK,I'm new.Why is that thing there anyway?Why not just remove the butterfly and let the sensor "think" it's working?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
if you leave the rod there hanging, the shear weight (although light) will pull the rod down, causing the piston-ring type seal to leak oil. it is best to cut the rod off inside the housing, and tap for a pipe plug INSIDE the body that way the shaft that you cut can rest on the head of the plug
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
That thing is there to aid in warmup of the truck, especially in cold weather. Not necessary for the truck to run. Mainly for the EPA emissions requirements to more quickly get the engine up to temp.
You could do remove just the butterfly, but there would still be a rod in the exhaust stream. If you've gone to the trouble to get the EBPV off, it's only a little more work to get the rod out too. Youcan always unplug the connection and it won't try to cycle the EBPV.
You could do remove just the butterfly, but there would still be a rod in the exhaust stream. If you've gone to the trouble to get the EBPV off, it's only a little more work to get the rod out too. Youcan always unplug the connection and it won't try to cycle the EBPV.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
no, not really. all it is doing is removing the rod which isnt much cross-sectional area, and the butterfly valve (when open) is basically no restriction, it is thin. for more flow out of the turbo and to do it PROPERLY, you should go with a Gilett Poweroutlet. it is a new casting bolted to the turbo that removes the butterfly valve. check with Cat_man_963, he has one on his BB turbo.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
From what I hear, that EBPV can collect deposits and become stuck either open closed or in between. Could restrict airflow. I've been kicking around the idea of a Banks Power Elbow Assembly. Sounds like it does the same thing as the Gillette Poweroutlet. It's suppose to reduce backpressure by 40% - 60% and they deleted the butterfly. But I think the Banks solution is a couple hundred bucks. I may just try to disconnect it myself.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
yeah with a banks powerelbow, i believe you can only use banks' special downpipe. it won't allow you to use regular outlet style ones. do the same thing for alot cheaper than Banks' by a Gilett power outlet or unplugging it. http://www.gdsdieselparts.com/late_99-03_ps_turbos.htm scroll down some...
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 51
Likes: 1
From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Thanks for the link, Strokin....Looks like I've got some more research to do. I already have an upgraded 4"exhaust. Seems silly to replace my downpipe (again) because of another mod. It was a pain in the neck to get off to begin with.