Hack my distributor out?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Auburn, WA
Hack my distributor out?
I am trying to remove the distributor from my 1977 F250 400 and it is SO stuck. I have dealt with this before on a Cleveland and was lucky enough to work it out with a very large Snap-On pry bar. No such luck here, this thing is as stuck as it gets. My fear here is that I break something that makes into the nether region only to be chewed up by important moving parts. Slide hammer? No, that didnt work either with a puller hooked around it. Sprayed it and everything. Amazing. Anybody have any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
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From: Delaware
I have had success with a flat bar nail puller hammered into the block/dist junction. I sprayed into the small gap and let it sit. Any thing that will make a small gap between the dist and block, then spray into the gap. Also try to rotate the dist with a pipe wrench, after spraying.
But maybe mine was not as bad as yours.
But maybe mine was not as bad as yours.
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From: Hazelton,BC Canada
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Manhattan, KS
Must be a common problem because mine is stuck too. I've been applying gumout for a couple of weeks and it still won't budge. I haven't got to the pipe wrench stage yet. A friend suggested a chain and an engine hoist, but I think the thing will just break before it comes out.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Coal Country, ND
I had that problem a few weeks ago when I put my cam in. I hosed it with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight and then put a Knipex channel lock on it and worked it side to side, and then started prying up on it with a bar while a friend moved it back and forth. I thought for sure that I was going to have to buy a new dizzy, but it eventually came out, man what a PITA. Hope it all works out for you all.
Last edited by unrulee; May 8, 2006 at 09:27 PM.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Put anti-seize on the distributor base when you reinstall.
Aluminum and steel/iron DO NOT work well with each other. Always use anti-seize whenever a steel or iron part or fastener touch each other. Cleaning the engine with harsh cleaners makes the distributor problem much worse.
Aluminum and steel/iron DO NOT work well with each other. Always use anti-seize whenever a steel or iron part or fastener touch each other. Cleaning the engine with harsh cleaners makes the distributor problem much worse.
Last edited by Torque1st; May 8, 2006 at 09:59 PM.
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Amen to the anti-sieze!!! Any place you have aluminum touching iron, use it liberally. It's not a bad idea on iron to iron contact, either. I use it on wheel studs always, with proper torque applied, I've never had a problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Auburn, WA
Success! Soaking it with lubricant for hours and beating it back and forth with Snap-On Dead blow rubber hammer did the trick, boom, boom boom and it finally just jarred loose. I think I was using the Force also. Thanks to all of you with an idea for me!
Luke Skywalker
Luke Skywalker
Last edited by rchewitt50; May 8, 2006 at 11:10 PM. Reason: left out something
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: Auburn, WA
Yeah, the rust was pretty heavy. It was going to take physical force on this one. Since you mentioned shrinking it though I will make sure to borrow the leftover Liquid Nitrogen we use to make the plugs fit into the unplanned "holes" that have been made in the airplane skins at work for next time. All you air travelers did know that is how we fixed those issues right?
