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Old May 7, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #1  
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go_racing84
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Laughing Gas
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From: Roseburg, OR
High-volume oil pump

Well, I'm on my way to Napa to get a distributor gear.

I put a high-flow oil pump in my 400 when I built it (in all fairness, I hadn't read the warnings that the distributor gear / oil pump shaft were in danger), and sure enough, about 3,000 miles later, I get on it leaving a stop and "POP!"-- backfire ('bout made an old guy out to check his mail poo himself), engine dies, no oil pressure when cranking. Pulled the distributor cap, and sure enough, rotor doesn't turn when cranking.

Huh.

So let this get added to the archives, feel free to point to it when someone insists there's no possible harm in adding a high-volume oil pump.

Worst part about it being that I had to have my dad tow me home with his Chevy.
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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53fatfndr
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Was this a stock dizzy or...? I've been thinking of replacing my HV pump for a stock one. I might just do that after having read this.
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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pcmenten
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Thanks for the real-world update. It's information like this that helps keep it real.
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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go_racing84
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Laughing Gas
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From: Roseburg, OR
Stock distributor (well, stock rotating pieces), I have to assume it is the original 1975 part. This would be one of the 3 or 4 parts of this motor I didn't replace in the rebuild.
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:52 PM
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go_racing84
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Laughing Gas
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From: Roseburg, OR
Pulled the distributor today, looks like the roll pin sheered. The gear is now slid up the shaft and jammed at enough of an angle to be completely impervious to my propane torch and hammer blows. Question now being, do I take it to a machine shop and get it pressed off, or do I just buy another distributor?
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 09:54 PM
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I would buy another distributor. The shaft may be slightly bent. Check your oil pump shaft also. It may be twisted. Time to drop the pan...
 
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Old May 8, 2006 | 11:26 PM
  #7  
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Laughing Gas
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The shaft may be slightly bent
If it ain't now, it will be by the time I bash that gear off of there
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 02:30 AM
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Just for satisfaction beat it off with a sledge or take a gas hatchet to it! But then as long as it looks "undamaged" it may be an acceptable core for the replacement, -no "fun" there tho.
 

Last edited by Torque1st; May 9, 2006 at 02:33 AM.
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Old May 9, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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mark a.
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I've never broken one. Maby the pump got/has something in it, or maby someone had it apart & reused a old roll pin.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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Laughing Gas
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There is that possibility. I've also heard stories of cam gears with bad grinds. Regardless, I'm just going to stick with this pump and see what happens. I'm moving going back to school in September, so it'll just be sitting that period of time anyway. As long as I have it running for a couple of 4x4 events that are happening mid-late June, I'm fine.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 10:07 AM
  #11  
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These are the things we all should think about when adding reengineered parts.
Your stock oil pump most likely bypassed a lot of the oil it was supposed to
provide for the engine as it was not needed. Now we add the HV
which requires more torque because of the volume. Had your engine been
fitted with fully grooved mains and perhaps a little extra clearence
the pumps drive requirements would have dropped as the flow increased and would not strained the drive. Sorry you have the problem perhaps we will help others
in the future. By the way if anyone thinks the Hv or Hp pumps will solve low pressure problems when an engine is warm they better think again, if it leaks that bad it's time to fix the leaks.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 07:28 PM
  #12  
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Laughing Gas
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From: Roseburg, OR
Got new distributor today, remanned from Napa, comes with a nice adjustable vacuum can as well as a pickup. $58 w/core. Will pull the pan on it this weekend, check out the oil pump shaft, and bolt the whole mess back together. The mud beckons.
 
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Old May 9, 2006 | 07:48 PM
  #13  
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You might want to get rid of that HV pump also while you are in there, pumps are cheap.
 
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Old May 11, 2006 | 01:05 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mark a.
I've never broken one. Maby the pump got/has something in it, or maby someone had it apart & reused a old roll pin.
You have been lucky..I snapped the roll pin on the dizzy gear on the stock Ford unit and cracked the shaft where the oil pump shaft engages on an Accel billet dizzy. I'm currently running Mallory dizzys with ARP oil pump shafts on a couple 400s with HV pumps and have had no problems with either of those..yet.
 
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Old May 15, 2006 | 05:42 PM
  #15  
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53fatfndr
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Originally Posted by go_racing84
Well, I'm on my way to Napa to get a distributor gear.

I put a high-flow oil pump in my 400 when I built it (in all fairness, I hadn't read the warnings that the distributor gear / oil pump shaft were in danger), and sure enough, about 3,000 miles later, I get on it leaving a stop and "POP!"-- backfire ('bout made an old guy out to check his mail poo himself), engine dies, no oil pressure when cranking. Pulled the distributor cap, and sure enough, rotor doesn't turn when cranking.

Huh.

So let this get added to the archives, feel free to point to it when someone insists there's no possible harm in adding a high-volume oil pump.

Worst part about it being that I had to have my dad tow me home with his Chevy.
Well, Josh, I went ahead and ordered a stock volume pump after having read your post. Now, my question is, what gaskets do I need for this oil pump swap? My Chilton's manual lists two, but I think I only need one, that being the "oil pump mounting gasket." The other is the pickup tube to pump gasket. If I remember right, my pickup tube screwed in to the pump and wasn't bolted, thus eliminating the need for a gasket. Anybody have any input on what I need exactly? I guess I'll find out when I pull the part. It's just been too many years since I put this engine together
 
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