'56 Stop Lamp Switch
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 47
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From: Chandler, AZ
'56 Stop Lamp Switch
Upfront this may be straight forward but not knowing a lot about the stop lamp switch or the greatest electrician, I have to ask to make sure. Currently I am in the process of converting my lighting system from 6V to a 12V system(my first step). My brake lights are 12V and are not working when I apply the brake. They will turn on when I turn my headlights on. Am I correct in assuming the switch works off of 6V therefore I need to do the necessary wiring to 12V??? Or do they make a 12V stop lamp switch. Or is it simply the switch needs to be replaced. I do believe it is the original.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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1. If it is a '56 it should already be a 12 volt system.
2. A switch does not know whether the voltage is 6 volt or 12 volt.
3. If the stop lights actually work when the headlights (taillights) are on, the
problem is probably with the grounding of the taillights.
2. A switch does not know whether the voltage is 6 volt or 12 volt.
3. If the stop lights actually work when the headlights (taillights) are on, the
problem is probably with the grounding of the taillights.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 358
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From: Joyce, WA
Are you sure the brake lights are coming on with the headlight switch and not the tailights? Brake lights are brighter. I am betting that the brake light switch is bad. It is a pressure switch and they seem to get sticky after awhile and not work. Luckily, they are cheap and it is an easy fix.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 24,418
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
What I would do is find the two wires that go to the brake lamp switch and short them together; just as the brake switch does.
See if the rear stop lamps light up.
Now that's what I would do.
And you do have a 12 volt system ('56 F100)
Has the wiring been "modified"?
See if the rear stop lamps light up.
Now that's what I would do.
And you do have a 12 volt system ('56 F100)
Has the wiring been "modified"?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Chandler, AZ
The wiring has been tampered with before I got the truck. I am trying to address my immediate needs and those brakes lights are a priority.
56f600 - you are correct i meant to say my tailights will light up when I turn my head lights on but they do not get brighter when teh brake is applied.
sierraben - i will try to short the wires together. They are easy enough to access.
Thansk everyone.
56f600 - you are correct i meant to say my tailights will light up when I turn my head lights on but they do not get brighter when teh brake is applied.
sierraben - i will try to short the wires together. They are easy enough to access.
Thansk everyone.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
You need a basic voltage meter that can also check continuity. They run from $10-$30. If your brake switch is working, then it will show as a closed switch when the brakes are actuated. You could also put the probe in the hot wire to see if any juice is even making it to the switch. You say, "Which is the hot wire?" I don't know, but it has to be one or the other that are fastened to the switch. If neither has juice, then save your money and don't buy a new switch. Find the source of the hot wire and address that issue first. Voltage testers are a real necessity for us restorers. Good luck, Jag 
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Joyce, WA
When the switches start to go bad, you have to STOMP on the brake pedal to get lights to work. If that works it is your switch. Jag is right, make sure power is getting to the switch first, a simple test light will work for this.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Chandler, AZ
I made an assumption when I started with this brake situation and that was the wires were connected....they were not. In tracing the wires from the MC they both led into the dash where I found them both connected to nothing. Guess I should have done a little more troubleshooting before posting.
Could someone tell me where I would connect the two wires which come off the MC? I would assume one would could go to the light switch but not sure where the other would go. Also, the stop light switch is rusty so is one terminal (+) and the other (-) or does that not matter.
Could someone tell me where I would connect the two wires which come off the MC? I would assume one would could go to the light switch but not sure where the other would go. Also, the stop light switch is rusty so is one terminal (+) and the other (-) or does that not matter.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Joyce, WA
It doesn't matter on the switch witch side is powered and witch side goes to lights. I don't remember if the switch is powered all the time or with key. I rewired mine to be hot all the time. At the same time I ran new wiring to rear lights, sorry can't help on where the wire is supposed to go in regards to original wiring harness.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
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From: Valley Center, CA
OK now you've done it. You have raised the topic that I have never quite been able to get my head around. I hope some smart person comes along and straintens this out. The reason that this topic is hard for me to understand is that it also involves the blinkers. If you just wire the brake switch with a wire connected right to a power source, then the brakes will work but the blinkers will not. About two years ago, I think it was Vern and Dewayne went into all the specifics of wiring the brakes so that the blinkers will still work. If somebody doesn't come along with the secret, then I would start a new post asking for that procedure. Good luck, Jag
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