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Fuel Pressure Regulator help

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Old May 4, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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Fuel Pressure Regulator help

I think i have a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator and i want to replace it but i cannot get the gas line off of it. Also, the other end for some reason is a short hose and then it just ends, it leaks gas from there a lot. Where should that go? i was told to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator but the car runs fine, it has that leak from the opposite end. If anyone could tell me where that hose should go that would be great
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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i believe one side is the supply and the other side goes pugs into the vacuum port on the plenum..the best way to tell if the pressure reg is bad.. check to see if there is fuel in the line going to the plenum,if there is it's bad,gas in the crankcase is sure sign it's bad. from what you described by it leaking on opposite end.i would replace it,they are about $28-35 at local parts store
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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To get the fuel line off the reg requires a special tool/fuel fitting disconnector. I couldn't find one so borrowed one from a Ford tech when I replaced mine, I think it was a Snap On. Maybe some other tool manufacturer makes one by now.
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:26 PM
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i got it off, there was a small spring like ring that o tore out and then it slip right off, the replacement one had one already so i was good, it is not leaking anymore but i still am not sure where the other end goes, im not a real car kind of guy so if someone could tell me what a plenum looks like and where i could find it in the car that would be great, the hoze for the vacuum side is broken in half so i assume since it is a vacuum i would need a new hose. I also have another problem, the car starts fine but when i put it in drive and let off the brake and hit the gas just a little little bit, the power drops to almost 0 and if i dont push the gas more it will stall. I was told to clean the area where the hose from the filter enters the engine. I am supposed to take carb cleaner and a tooth brush and scrub, i have already used 1 can and brown liquid is still pouring out, should i keep cleaning it?
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Both types of tool are described in the Haynes repair manual, and one or the
other are sold at most of the auto parts stores with a tool section.
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Okay, the little line needs to go to the upper intake. There should be a port right next to the FPR.
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:43 PM
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ok, there is a line with a tube on it that has been cut and a screw has been placed in it, let me see if i can describe where thats at.
Looking at the car, it would be towards the front and up maybe at 6 inches max away. It has a 3 way metal tube with 2 hoses coming out paralle to the road and the one with the screw is perpendicular to the road pointing down. Is that is? and what would the car do if that is disconnected, its been like that for quite awhile.
 
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Old May 4, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Wait, not to steal a thread, but i feel this is related enough for us all to stay on the same topic.

When i checked my oil, i did the smell test (if it smells like toast, it is toast) and all i smelled was a heavy gas odor.

My truck runs fine, but the oil seems pretty thin and is most likley the cuase of the lifter tick.
 
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Old May 5, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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ok, i found where the hose should go, i still have the problem with the car wanting to stall when it is in drive/ reverse and i tap the gas, the power drops way down and then surges back to normal, the only way i could get it to stall today is to constantly tap the gas and it finally stalled. Anyone have an idea?
 
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Old May 6, 2006 | 07:52 PM
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OOOHHHHHH i think i know what your problem is!!!!

Mine dose this too, and i noticed it only did once i removed a ground wire from the intake manifold. (past owner put it there, i removed it cuase it looked piontless)

I think the reason he put it there, is becuase the negative lead for the idle air control soliniod was getting bad somewhere in the wiring harness, so by putting the wire on the trottle body, it allowed it to get the solid connection it needs. I notice that after i removed that wire, if you rev the motor up to around 4,000 then let it drop, it would do that almost stall thing, and try to save itslef.

Two things you should do it

a) run that ground wire from the intake manifold, too a solid body ground (like battery post if closest)

b)take apart the idle control valve, and wd-40/clean it up, as it may be sticking.

Id did both and now it runs great.
 
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Old May 6, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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i put a new ground wire (used a copper wire from a peice of housing wire) and i dont know what the idle control valve is but as of right now i have a much bigger problem,i just noticed it when i start driving it for about 5 miles and if i stop and open a door, i get a big wiff of gas and when i stop and turn the car off it is smoking from the driver side front of the hood, the engine isnt getting hot so i think im leaking something (gas probably) and its burning off. This is a really big problem, any ideas?

Edit: Also, since i replaced the FPR, the check engine light has come on 2 times, once i came on and i turn the car off and then back on and another time it came on so i stoped to get gas and looked down before i turned the car off and it was off again.
 

Last edited by Cow-Tipper; May 6, 2006 at 11:34 PM.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 05:31 AM
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With switch on, check for fuel leak around bottom of FPR. O-Ring may not be seated properly.
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 10:24 AM
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should i turn the car on also? or just turn it so the fuel pump is on? I is probably the cause becasue that thing is really hard to push in there
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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that was the problem, did a little jiggling to get it in there, before it was pumping out gas
 
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Old May 7, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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glad you found source of leak. Keep a close eye on it for a few days.
 
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