When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My engine is done just need some rocker arms,I need 7/16 studs and 1.73 lift ratio any suggestions,I know comps are good but they are spendy.no one would happen to have some in there garage they want to get rid of?Any cheaper brands that can support 500 horse?
TFS black, and the FRPP blue rockers are built by crane and are the same as the Crane gold rockers. Both come up with good geometry and handle quit a bit, I am running the FRPP blue rockers on my stroker with 800lbs of open spring preasure and they are surviving very well.
Most rockers for the canted valve heads are 1.70 chevy the geometry is not quite correct and a cam has to be ordered with extra lift to acheeve the cams advertized 1.73 llift. ex if the lobe has .300 lift x 1.73= .519 with 1.7 lift. With the rocker at 1.70 x .300 = .510 as you get innto bigger lifts it gets worse. usualy longer push rods are needed to correct tip geometry. I suppose lower performance stuff it dosent matter much.
turbo thats why I suggest the Crane gold versions, like the ford racing or TFS units because they are actually built on the fords 1.73 ratio instead of using the chev ratio and geometry. The best option for geometery and lift is also very expensive so not even bringing it up yet but that is the crower stainless units when tested last year they cam the closest to advertised lift of any of them, with the crane gold and other made by them bieng second then the list went from there.
turbo thats why I suggest the Crane gold versions, like the ford racing or TFS units because they are actually built on the fords 1.73 ratio instead of using the chev ratio and geometry. The best option for geometery and lift is also very expensive so not even bringing it up yet but that is the crower stainless units when tested last year they cam the closest to advertised lift of any of them, with the crane gold and other made by them bieng second then the list went from there.
I just did a 351c and the rockers were gold race. If it wasnt for the fact i had all Ferrea valve s an componets. Had to addd lash caps lengthen the pushrods in an effort to get proper valve tip contact. The rocker was were it should be at half lift in valve closed position at full lift so the rocker only used half of its travel had issus with the stud hitting rocker at full travel. This is with a .600 lift cam. Its hard to picture in words will sent a skecth it you like. Everything was machined installed properly I measure eacch part lift is measured at each valve . I evenn have all the blueprints for these engines. Also the geomety on thee exhaust is different than the intake and should have different rockers for each.
You should always measure your pushrods, I have rarely if ever seen the stock length pushrods work properly when putting in roller rockers, and as far as the rocker hitting the studs 99% of all people that do the conversion don't take into account the thickness of the guide plates when machining for screw in studs and thus the studs are actually sitting at .140 too high I have seen that mistake done even in supposed expert high performance shops. You HAVE to cut the top of the pedestal down by atleast the thickness of the guide plate and I actually go another .040 over that for clearence, and without exception if the rocker is hitting the bottom of the stud that is exactly what happened.
When I went to cranes on my cleveland I was running a couple of years ago, I only had lash caps on the intake valves because they were titanium valves and didn't want the direct contact with the roller. I did have to get a different length pushrod to get the geometry perfect but it was dead center on the valve when done and no contact issue with the stud either.
They were machined correctly and I got more air flow out of the heads than any figures I have seen published to date. I have the machining drawings for the heads checked eveything to factory specks. I checked each vale for lift and tip contact ended up. If you want the correct geometry you have to go Jessel. The lift loss equalled the differance between 1.70 and 1.73. Next time I am going with 1.80s.
I ended up getting a really good set off crane rollers but they are 1.7 instead of 1.73 whatws the differance just the lift any concerns I should have with these
check your geometry, and check your pushrod length, the 1.7 is a chev rocker and they are setup differently than the ford rocker (hard to explain but if you put them side by side with a 1.73 designed specifically for a ford you can tell) But it's very common and if you haven't guess most cheaper roller rocker setups use the same ones for ford and chev big blocks and they work fine if you set them up as good as possible.
my engine guy said he needed the rocker arms to determine the pushrod length I think they should work fine he is the best in the business (except when it comes to engine color
he is right you need to have the rockers your gonna run to determine the length of the pushrods, if he had said he could figure it out without them I would have said he should stick to orange engines.
Just to let you know I used to design (not model) valve train geomety. Do stack ups to fix or determin if it was cost effective to correct it or let it go. I have designed just about every part on an engine and engines most have never seen.
You could save a ton of money and go with 1.73 pedestal mount roller rockers available from Scorpion or sponsor TMI. No machine work, or guide plates required and the valve train is more stable.