Need A No Start Check List !
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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Need A No Start Check List !
I got in today and I got a No start situation.
No dummy lights until I turn to the start position and then I get brake and engine lite, but no glow lite.
I dont really know where to start checking and in what order.
All my fuses are good in the panel.
I traced a black wire from the glow solenoid to a gadget with a connector. I unplugged it and checked for voltage. A red wire gets some voltage, but not alot.
There are 3 wires. The black runs to the glow solenoid, two others are red with different tracers.
HELP !
Note to self: Prior to this, I did see it's glow light NOT come on at certain times when I expected it to, but ruled it as a temp sensor issue. If I were to start it and shut it down shortly afterwards, then attempt to restart it, the glow wouldnt come on for a while or it might start without them, but only after alot of turns and it would race to a start ie. V-rooom.
Where is this sensor and how do I check or bypass it ?
Yes it turns over. Batteries are good.
Please walk me through some checks, one at a time. I can provide pics. if need be, just ask. I wanted to show you the gadget.
No dummy lights until I turn to the start position and then I get brake and engine lite, but no glow lite.
I dont really know where to start checking and in what order.
All my fuses are good in the panel.
I traced a black wire from the glow solenoid to a gadget with a connector. I unplugged it and checked for voltage. A red wire gets some voltage, but not alot.
There are 3 wires. The black runs to the glow solenoid, two others are red with different tracers.
HELP !
Note to self: Prior to this, I did see it's glow light NOT come on at certain times when I expected it to, but ruled it as a temp sensor issue. If I were to start it and shut it down shortly afterwards, then attempt to restart it, the glow wouldnt come on for a while or it might start without them, but only after alot of turns and it would race to a start ie. V-rooom.
Where is this sensor and how do I check or bypass it ?
Yes it turns over. Batteries are good.
Please walk me through some checks, one at a time. I can provide pics. if need be, just ask. I wanted to show you the gadget.
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OK, I found this https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...a%2Fk2pilot%2F I bypassed the controller and it worked. Now what ?
What is a controller, where is it, and where do I buy a new one ?
What is a controller, where is it, and where do I buy a new one ?
Last edited by rebelbrowser; May 3, 2006 at 03:10 PM.
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Its an 85, I found this. It relates I will check it all out soon. (tomorrow)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...2&page=2&pp=15
Dave is awesome and always comes to the rescue.
I still will need direction in looking for the controler component.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...2&page=2&pp=15
Dave is awesome and always comes to the rescue.
I still will need direction in looking for the controler component.
Last edited by rebelbrowser; May 3, 2006 at 04:53 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
OK, rescue here, sorta.
The link above is for the relay.
This is for the controller.
Open the hood.
Get your trouble light.
Crawl on top of the engine, all the way on top of the engine, no cheating.
Now look down behind the passenger side rocker cover just in front of the fire wall.
See that thing with a round cap on it with about 7 or 8 wires going into the wiring harness?
You do?
OK, you found it.
Now the rest of the story.
It costs 150 dollars at Ford.
You also have to figure out how to turn a wrench back there.
It is fragile and will be stuck in the head, it has been there and not moved in 21 years.
If you break it off you will have a coolant leak.
To fix the leak, you have to remove the head.
That is why I recommend the manual glow plugs.
The link above is for the relay.
This is for the controller.
Open the hood.
Get your trouble light.
Crawl on top of the engine, all the way on top of the engine, no cheating.
Now look down behind the passenger side rocker cover just in front of the fire wall.
See that thing with a round cap on it with about 7 or 8 wires going into the wiring harness?
You do?
OK, you found it.
Now the rest of the story.
It costs 150 dollars at Ford.
You also have to figure out how to turn a wrench back there.
It is fragile and will be stuck in the head, it has been there and not moved in 21 years.
If you break it off you will have a coolant leak.
To fix the leak, you have to remove the head.
That is why I recommend the manual glow plugs.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; May 3, 2006 at 07:14 PM.
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HOLY SnYKIES !
This explains why I havent seen it anywhere yet.
I would use a push button and not a toggle...as well find a key on source.. It seems easy enough a fix then to have to mess with that little tip of the iceburg. I hesitate to even ask what all exactly does it do. But please dont bother, instead, see if you can help tell me what my bumper is rated for. I have this picture posted in the towing section, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=488250 and so far we've not got anything too reasuring. You guys are the ford lords to me. Thanks
This explains why I havent seen it anywhere yet.
I would use a push button and not a toggle...as well find a key on source.. It seems easy enough a fix then to have to mess with that little tip of the iceburg. I hesitate to even ask what all exactly does it do. But please dont bother, instead, see if you can help tell me what my bumper is rated for. I have this picture posted in the towing section, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=488250 and so far we've not got anything too reasuring. You guys are the ford lords to me. Thanks
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
#Are you talking about the equlizer hitch under the bumper? My bumper (which looks like yours) was made by the Luverne truck equipment inc Bradon S.D. Model U730
C rating V5 max gross wt 10K tounge wt 1K.
correct model # is U7308dc
C rating V5 max gross wt 10K tounge wt 1K.correct model # is U7308dc
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; May 4, 2006 at 05:54 PM. Reason: model # not coming thru
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I already jackknifed it and dented the bumper chrome.
But yeah if I thought it was any better then the hitch underneath, I would continue to use it. But with no stickers, everyone says I am just guessing. It bites. Both are made of the same thickness in steel. And No I havent measured it yet. But the bumper has wider beefier construction going for it. They both are bolted to the frame with only two bolts on each side. Also If I thought the bumper was worth it do do to it I would even weld it to the frame. But I dont know I want to keep it after denting it so easily ! I have just been like
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
Likes: 221
From: Huntington Indiana
The underneath hitch looks like my reese hitch setup. 10k and 1k. the previous post was for the chrome hitch and they are bendable the further out from the frame you get (nothing there - not beefed up)
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