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My truck is having troubles with the voltage in the cab and the headlights. we just installed a new alternator, new battery, and checked all the wiring from the alternator to the battery. the terminals on the battery are clean. We hooked up a voltage meter to the wire going to the horn, and with the truck off and the horn on, we had 12 volts, but when we started the truck, and hit the horn, the volts got as low as .22. My headlights get dim my wipers get slow, my heater slows down. The truck turns over nice and fast, so there are no problems there. When I drive down the road with my headlights on, and wipers on etc. and hold the horn, it isn't very loud, until I rev my engine, then the horn gets louder, and the wipers go faster. Does anyone know about a second voltage regulator behind the dash? When i turn on myheadlights, the tach needle moves. Please help me, I am stuck.
we were chatting with someone on the forums, and they told us to check the alternator, even though it is brand new, and what do you know, it was bad. got a new alternator, and the problem is solved. thanks anyway for the suggestion
You have a grounding problem. Check and clean up the connections on the engine to chassis ground. Also the ground strap from the engine to the firewall. If necessary, add a ground from the radiator support to the battery negative.
You have a grounding problem. Check and clean up the connections on the engine to chassis ground. Also the ground strap from the engine to the firewall. If necessary, add a ground from the radiator support to the battery negative.
Thank you bdox good info for me! Not to long ago I did clean up the firewall to engine bloock ground (mine was FRIED) ---wonder how that happned... Anyway I did not ever clean up the battery ground to engine ground cable on the engine. I think i should do that soon. As for the problem i was having is now fixed due to my old alternator failing to work. My post was after we came back from autozone with a new alternator that we installed that was CRAP. We took that new one back to autozone they tested the new one they just sold me and it was bad. My cusin told me he had a high pro alt. from is 89 cougar i could have, so we just left autozone with nothing. I got the new alt. on and everthing is bright again! Now even at idle, my lights and heater stay bright as can be! Thank you all for your help, we were in the truck when it was dead on the computer chatting with someone on FTE who told us to check the alternator-who would have thought a bran new $130.00 Duracraft ALT would be DEAD?
-- Cleaning my Ground on the engine block to battery, --
Nathane, there is nothing wrong with using a generic ground strap for your radiator support. The one from the firewall to the enging should be the flat woven type because of the constant movement of the engine. If you can't find one there, install one for greater reliability of in cab electrics.
donniezyea, your firewall to engine ground probably burned up because of faulty connections on you engine to chassis ground cable which handles the starter current. Many of our trucks have the battery neg cable tied to the chassis, so the engine to chassis ground cable is essential both for engine electrics, gauges and especially for the starter.
When the engine ground fails or has bad connections, and you hit the starter the current will find any available path to ground. It can cause a lot of electrical and even mechanical problems such as throttle cables being burned.
Nathane, there is nothing wrong with using a generic ground strap for your radiator support. The one from the firewall to the enging should be the flat woven type because of the constant movement of the engine. If you can't find one there, install one for greater reliability of in cab electrics.
ok... I'll do that this weekend before I leave, if i can
Sometimes my blinkers crap out, and othertimes my radio doesnt work (unless I hit it)
Bad ground? I took the dash apart, and cleaned/dilectric greased all grounds that I could find
Could be. Everything has to be grounded all the way back to the battery. Just to save wiring I suppose, they use the body and chassis as the ground connections. The various parts of the vehicle are not screwed together with that in mind, which is why ground cables are necessary to complete the circuits.
When the engine ground fails or has bad connections, and you hit the starter the current will find any available path to ground. It can cause a lot of electrical and even mechanical problems such as throttle cables being burned.
An interesting story to support this. When my Dad and I put the engine in his Mustang, we forgot to hook the ground strap to the engine. When we went to fire the engine up, it cranked slow and the oil pressure guage started smoking. It turned out that the engine was trying to ground itself through the copper line to the oil pressure guage and melted a spot on the line. Lesson learned after that one.
I dont know does it matter i only have one ground going from the battery to the engine, and the engine to firewall. It sounds like i need another engine to frame wire. Thanks for the help.
Donnie
I dont know does it matter i only have one ground going from the battery to the engine, and the engine to firewall. It sounds like i need another engine to frame wire. Thanks for the help.
Donnie
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Good plan. Look around and figure what your headlights and tail lights ground to. Body or chassis. When in doubt, add a ground wire. Such as radiator support to chassis. Bed to chassis.