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Once again, it's not All about HP, It's about Foot Pounds of Torque in the Correct RPM Tange that goes hand in glove w/ all that Elusive HP.
Because w/o the Ability to Get Off the Line 1st, Pull Away & then Keep Pulling Away, which Requires Gobs of Torque.
In order to Do this Requires 1st & Foremast, Torque, then the over rated HP, because w/o FPT @ the Start, you have Nothing.
Not always, as you can get an engine to make all the HP in the World, but if you Do Not pay attention to boosting the FPT in the Correct RPM Range you have nothing but Wasted HP.
Broke, yes that is the same falcon it was in CarCraft in March and is in the current issue of Mustangs & Fords at almost 2700lbs w/driver it has run a best of 11.85@110 mph in the 1/4.As for the valve sizes most use the 1.94 int/1.60 exh. There are some who have run 2.02 intakes aswell but I wouldn't reccommend those for the street.
but...if it makes 600 HP it would make tons of torque as well...what gears, axle shafts, transmission(i prefer a manual) and u joints should i use
Only if it makes 600 hp in a reasonable rpm range. 600 hp at 7000 rpm is only 450 ft-lbs of torque. Yes, that's a decent bit of twist, but it's at an rpm that is useless in a truck. The torque might peak at 5000-5500 rpm at about 500, but that's still a useless rpm considering the effort needed to get there. This is why cars with big power and rpm numbers run 5.13 gears: below 4000 rpm (where you need it the most) you have nothing to speak of. If I had a 600 hp engine in my truck without changing anything else it probably wouldn't be much quicker than it is now. If I added a set of 4.56 gears it would be much faster, but a PITA to drive.
maybe i really am missing something... the 300 is designed, and is strongest at low RPM's where it makes all that beautiful toruqe to pull houses off their foundations. if you want 600 horsepower, you're most likely using the wrong tool for the job (yes, i know some earlier drag cars used them, but they were not trucks, and weren't everyday drivers). If i want to pull a trailer full of shingles to a job site, i use my truck. even though, a mustang may make twice as much horsepower, it would be a waste of time pulling the trailer with the mustang. every tool has a job, and an engine is just that, a tool. you've got a great tool, and you've picked out a great job to try and accomplish, its just that you're gonna have a hell of a time trying to pound in that nail with a screwdriver, if you get my point...
ive pounded nails in with screwdrivers before...wasnt very effective but it worked anyhow...i got plenty of time for the truck...its not a for work anyhow...not anymore at least theres no way it can handle that anymore
what gearing would u recommend for my truck? it has a 9" rear axle
There are way too many factors to estimate that right now. Once you get the engine built and get some dyno numbers it will be easier to pick a decent ratio. The weight of the truck and which trans you are running has a lot to do with it as well. Do you want stop light to stop light, 1/8 mile, 1/4 mile, or something else?
With that kind of power in a 4000 lb truck you would be looking at about 115 mph in the 1/4 mile. If your engine made peak power at about 7000 rpm and you ran a 30" tire you would need something between 5.0 and 5.43 to get your money's worth out of the engine on the track. You could run a taller gear to make it more streetable, but you would sacrifice some acceleration. You also have to make it hook.