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Has anyone used an ARG steering box? I found this one in the Summit catalog for $249.00 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I was woundering if it's worth the extra money. I put a rebuilt box on my Bronco and the box still has play even after tightening up the adjustment.
They modify the boxes and pumps when they rebuild them.
From what I understand, if you can afford vehicle down time, you can pull your components and send them directly to AGR for rebuilding and upgrading.
These remanufactured steering boxes from AGR are more than just auto parts store rebuilt gear boxes. For starters, AGR inspects and tests all individual components. Proprietary modifications are made to the housing and valve assembly to provide increased flow capabilities, allowing the box to react quicker. Then all new bearings and seals are installed, and an attractive finish completes the package.
Some features of these pumps include: * Exterior of casting receives a special finish * Custom porting to ensure strong fluid flow, while providing a long and cool life * Interior surfaces and bores are mechanically polished to a fine micron finish * Specially designed high-temperature, high-rpm seals * Bearings are custom-sized by a proprietary process for maximum performance at any rpm * Each pump is 100 percent Dyno-checked for pressure, response, and flow at varying rpm * Each pump receives a stringent fluorescent leak test </SCRIPT>
I think they replace all the cheap parts but not the parts that really geet worn. (I have replaced Mine twice and am not happy) One thing you might check is your slip joint. I was able to take some of my play out there. Thats assuming the rest of your steering system is in good shape.
I've replaced all my steering and suspension parts, the only place I see lost motion is in the gear box, which is a rebuilt box I installed about a year ago.
The AGR unit is basically a high-end remanufacture. The porting is altered slightly to bump the pressure a little on the inbound side. This eases operation with larger-than-stock tires and low rpm maneuvers.
Proprietary modifications are made to the housing and valve assembly to provide increased flow capabilities, allowing the box to react quicker.
Not sure exactly what they mean by the box reacting quicker... after all the gear ratio is the gear ratio so unless they have designed a new gearing to install the reaction time of the box will be the same as the OEM unit. Now changing the porting may improve fluid flow through the box making it easier to operate especially at low rpms. And the fancy finish is, well, a fancy finish that few people will appreciate much less actually see. I mean I don't know about you, but I've never had any corrosion problems with the steering box.... its usually so soaked in P/S fluid, oil, etc. that it will never rust anyway. Just my $0.02. I'd go for a good quality remanned unit without the $250 pricetag. Check the rest of the steering linkage as well from the slip shaft on the upper comlumn all the way to the rod ends.
Last edited by greystreak92; Apr 30, 2006 at 12:56 PM.
Who sells a good quality rebuilt box, the rebuilt one I have was no better than the original box I removed. Am I asking to much to eleminate the 2" of free play in the steering wheel or am I just spoiled with rack and pinion steering?
2" of play is a problem thats for certain. I've just never had the box be at the root of that much slop in the steering. As long as the sector shaft adjustment is good, there is very little in the gear to allow that kind of slop. I've seen pitman arm splines that are pretty rough from not having the arm on well enough. I've even seen the slipshaft between the column and the box get really loose over time. Even had what I thought was a steering problem that ended up being a broken axle pivot mount. Not tryin to second guess you here but can you verify that the slop is indeed between the input and output shafts of the gear itself?
Is the ARG rerally better than the autozone? If someone will sware to it, I will buy one next week. If anyone is intrested, the way I got some play out of my slip joint. I took two pieces of .032" sheet aluminum about 3/4" wide x 1 and 1/2" long. Bent about 1/4" on the end 90 degrees and shoved them in the end between the shaft and slip sleeve. It took all the play out, but might not be so safe in the event of an accedent.
The slip sleeve is behind the so called rag joint. (on the bronco it's not a rag). Basiclly, if you undue the universal on the input side of the steering box, it will slide back on the slip joint. It's just a shaft with two flats that slides in a like hole. Heres the trick. If you pull the shaft completely out, there is a plastic piece that is suppose to make it fit tight. On both of my Broncos, it wasnt. You can check it by rocking the wheel while your finger is touching the flat at the joint. The reason for this joint (other than assembly) is to colapse in an accident. So you dont want to completly lock it up.
The slip sleeve is behind the so called rag joint. (on the bronco it's not a rag).
There sure as ***** was a rag joint on all three of my full size Broncos....there is a plastic cover going over it and the bottom of the plastic cover has a hook that holds to one of the power steerings rigid lines, but if you slide the cover back up the shaft toward the firewall you will see the rag joint under there.
I would love to eliminate it and install a full Borgson steering shaft......just not yet.
On mine the plastic piece was there. It was just worn. (flatened) When I said there is not a rag joint. What I ment was it is not a rag material like on my old Corvette. The material on my Bronco doesnt cause any play. I checked in to the borgeson a few years back, but they didnt make a shaft for my truck. Has that changed?
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