i am workign on a 1956 c600 cabover that has sat for numerous years. i am going to attempt to get it to run. the first thing i want to do is change the fluids, so what id liek to know is what kind of oil and what viscosity i should use, along with what oil filter, and what trans fluid and how much to use, and then what things i should look out for when trying to get this baby running



thanks guys

 

I'm assuming that the engine can be turned over by hand at this point. If not, it may take a little more than new fluids.

For oil, I'd use one of the diesel rated oils like Shell Rotella, which is often found in a 15W-40. The filter will depend on whether it's a canister type or a later threaded type; the later filter is a Motorcraft FL-1A or NAPA 1515, the same used on zillions of '60s & '70s Fords. The cartridge is a NAPA 1004. I'd use the Rotella because it still has zinc additives for wear, & std. car oils don't anymore. Since this thing has sat for so long, no oil is going to be on the cam, lifters, or bearings at all & it will need all the help you can give it.

To that end, if you can, I'd pull the distributor & prelube the engine by spinning the oil pump shaft with a socket, extension, & speed handle, or a drill (tape the socket on to avoid ruining your day when it falls off into the engine). Turn the engine over a turn or two halfway through the process. If you don't feel comfortable pulling the dizzy, at least hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge, pull off the main coil to dizzy lead, & crank it over with the starter for awhile to get some oil pumped through the engine.

As far as trans & rear axles, use 90 weight or 80W90 for the moment, though you might change the axle to 140 if you plan to use it under hot conditions. Which trans you have will determine its capacity; the axle will probably hold around 15-16 pints at a guess.

Use 30 weight or 10W-30 in the oil bath air cleaner.

I'd also change plugs, wires, dizzy cap & rotor, hoses, belts, & coolant, depending on how much $$$ you want to plow into it. At least check everything over & make sure the radiator is full of something, & file the points/gap the plugs.

Lastly, by now, the carburetor & fuel pump, tank, & lines are certain to be full of varnish & crap. You may find that the carb, having dried out, now leaks like a sieve, so plan on a rebuild very soon. It's probably easiest to feed the fuel pump off a marine tank, old mower tank, or a can, depending on your feelings at the time, & bypass the original tank/lines for the moment. Prolly goes without saying, but be safe about it, gas fumes & leaky voltage from plug wires don't play well together. You'll have to blow out the carb-to-pump line & check whatever fuel filter it has on it now.

I'd keep a friend or two, an ABC-rated fire extinguisher, & a garden hose handy as well.

A shop manual from Motorhaven might come in handy, too.

Sounds cool- post some pics in your gallery when you get a chance.

 

Step 1: Drop the pan and thouroughly clean it and the pump screen.

I agree on the oil. Besides Rotella there is now Castrol Tection and Valvoline Blue Performance added to the box store shelves as the word gets around about the current SM grade car oils.

Depending on your location be prepared for a blown muffler or tailpipe as the mouse nests let loose! Happens to me regularly out here.