I'm just curious about a question. I enjoy lurking around this forum but I know very little when it comes to the specifics about oils and filters so I don't post very often down here. My question is how much to these UOAs cost?? I ask only because I see quite a few on here that take them at each change or everyother change and it seems like it would just be easier and cheaper to change the oil at say 3k miles instead of sending it in for a UOA that costs like $20 (just a guess). For $15 I can change my own oil on my V10 and use a Genuine Ford FL820S Filter and 7 quarts of Motorcraft 5W20. Seems to me that other than having some data, the coolness factor of a UOA, and being able to maybe run it out to 6k miles wouldn't be actually cheaper to just change the oil at 3k, not do the UOA and actually ahve better oil in it for the next 3k? I'm only asking because I really have no Idea but it seems a little counter productive. I was thinking maybe just because you guys are oil fanatics that you do it, kind of like me having to have the $1000 Benelli shot gun even though I've shot just as many birds with a $300 BPS, and although its overkill I wouldn't have it any other way, lol.

 

They cost me $18. I agree that it does not seem cost-effective if all you are doing is extending oil change intervals. But how would you tell if you have a bearing starting to go out or a head gasket leak before it got bad enough to cause damage? Todays multi-valve OHC engines cannot be rebuilt cheaply, like in the old days. Confidence in extended OCI's is just a bonus.

Jim

 

True, if your not extending OC's then its probably not worth it. How much oil does your V10 hold? A 6.0 holds about 17qts, that gets expensive to change. OA gives you alot of info to keep track of not just the oil, but the condition of the engine in general. You'll know if a gasket is going by the coolant reading, if you have too much fuel dilution, and the best part, being able to track the wear pattern of the engine. You will see the wear as the engine breaks in then the wear will level out. To each his own, I intend to keep my truck for many miles and be able to proactively anticipate maintenance.

 

I got my results tonight. Sorry, it's not for a ford motor, but it is an example of the info you get in a UOA. Going by the results, I think I'm going to change the filter at the same point and run it a bit longer, maybe substantially.

8000 km is 5000 miles


http://members.shaw.ca/dvdguy/blackstone001.gif

 

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NICE!! Only thing I cringed at was seeing the specs. at metric scales, as compared to my more familier US measures. Thank you for posting the respective km into mileage.

The 4.7 L Dodge engine, is a great V8, and should give you many years of dependable driving. I realize modern day Dodge engines are different than those of yesteryear, but I have had years of driving dependable Chrysler products, including building / racing / having fun with some bad to the bone, wicked Mopar Muscle as a teenager in the 70s. Small block Mopars (318 340 360) and a few ground shaking big block Dodge aphalt animals: (383 400 440) were also wrenched on "back in the day". I still enjoy attending various All-Mopar events. Yes, I remember when a brand new, factory fresh 1970 HEMI Plymouth 'Cuda was sitting inside a Chrysler-Plymouth dealership showroom. Loaded, pristine, beautiful, HEMI, 4-Speed 'Cuda and the optioned window sticker maxed at or around $5295 during the late autumn of 1969. Ahhh////.... stop me, before I cry, after seeing what they easily go for at Barrett Jackson in late January....

I was glad to see there was no moisture noted in your oil, so this shows your 4.7 is heating up, and running normally, boiling off any containiments (moisture) which is not good for various bottom end engine parts, if left unchecked over time...

Thank You for posting your Lab Report, I enjoyed reading it, and will refer back to it, on occasion. Ed

Also, I am a fan of Mobil 1 5w30 oil, especially now during the high price of gasoline. How is the price of gas in Canada?

 

Mopar muscle of yesteryear will always have a place in my heart, right beside Ford.

My commute to work is about 40 mins, mostly on the highway. That change had most of the winter on it and I don't idle it to warm it up when it's cold, which is probably why there's no fuel in the oil either.

Sounds like you may be familiar with where the elements are coming from but I found this link this morning and thought it was fery informational and worth a read... http://blackstone-labs.com/gasoline_...port_expl.html

 

Wonder why they didn't flag the iron reading????? It's clearly higher than average!!!!

What kind of air filter are you running & how long has it been in place????

Replaced any gaskets or seals lately, that might have silicone in them?????

Good fuel, water & insoluable numbers though, so the engine seems to like that nice long drive, to get everything warmed up & blown out, real good, up there in cold country!!!!

BTW, which formula Mobil-1 are you running????

 

Pawpaw, you need to look where he is from and the time cycle that the oil was run. Being from Canada, this cycle was over the winter months, and the oil being a PAO synthetic will make the iron much higher than if he were in Florida during the summer and using a blend. I would have also flagged the iron but that's just me. I wouldn't recommend this oil for this engine for winter useage. I would probably go outside the norm and suggest the owner mix 3qts 0w-30 synthetic and 2 qts 5w-20 in a blend for the winter months. Wear metals would be reduced as corrosion would be reduced dramatically and cold startup issues would be reduced as well.

 

By the time I even knew about UOAs I already had about 175,000 miles on my truck and figured with that much mileage I must be doing something right so I never bothered with them.

 

I'm not sure about the iron, though I have heard one person say that the M1 has iron in it, out of the bottle, however, I cannot find anything to back that up.

I'm running a Fram filter, and it is due for a change this weekend, 12000 miles on it at the moment. So they are on the money on that one.

Have not replaced any gaskets, I do suspect the air filter.

I'm running just the mobil 1 5w30 straight-up. from the grey jug; not the 5000/7500/15000 stuff.

Ed: Bought diesel and gas today, diesel is 93.9/liter, gas is 105.4/liter. Converted: Diesel - 3.19/gal GAS - 3.59/gal US gallons and 0.90 exchange rate.

 

Thanks! Gasoline is nearly the same here as in Sacramento, CA, where I paid $3.14 gallon and diesel fuel at or around $3.24 gallon, at the commercial cardlock facility. (no retail sales).

I too, would use only the regular Mobil 1, 5w30. The extended performance formula does not have the "Energy Conserving" rating, and I have not heard a reason from Mobil, or anyone, why? I'm guessing it's loaded up with different additives, as to be usefull at 15,000 miles, OCI's. Since I have no desire to run ANY oil, for 15,000 miles in my fleet, I'll continue to use the regular Mobil 1. However, currently, I am using Chevron Supreme 5w30, and it's performing beautifully, as usual.
PS Like you, I've lately owned Ford products, but still remember and have an intrest in Mopar Musclecars from the 60s and 70s! The late 60s, early 70s, was a great time to be young, and into American Muscle, "The Big 3" and even American Motors Corporation were building some amazing street machines! The '68-'70 AMX's, with the 390 CI "Go Pkg.", The Rebel Machines, and my personal favorite, the brand new 1971 AMX with a 401 CI, 4-SP. I remember sitting in one at a dealership as a kid. I was too young to drive then, but the silver metallic '71 AMX with a black interiot, T-Top trim, plastic on seats, new car smell, the '71 AMX's were sharp rides! Back then, my Dad and I frequently visited new car dealerships when the new models came out in September and october. Today, it's no big deal. Ed

 

38 ppm is within the acceptable levels of 100 to 200 ppm

 

Gusher, maybe in 1968 iron at 1-200 ppms was acceptable but not in 2006. His iron is 7.60 per thousand miles. My Triton which sees LOTs of outside temps at 115F+ and idles almost all day with the A/C running because of the heat. I run a 5w-20 and my iron isn't that high for a 5000 mile run. It generally is below 7. And that's for the 5,000 miles, not per thousand. His 4.7 Dakota is not a Triton but those engines don't produce iron like that normally. The 4.7 should have iron in the 1.7- 2.3 per M range. The idea behind analysis is to get an oil that produces low wear metals for that engine. He isn't getting it with the M1. There are other oils out there that will give a much better wear metals report.

 

Well furball then the higher than normal silicon readings may be the root cause for the higher than normal iron readings, as it looks like fingers are beginning to point toward a intake air problem!!!!

Maybe a mis fitting air filter, air box impropely buttoned up, loose pcv or fresh air hose, or the intake air tube isn't fitting right somwhere, or is somehow damaged.

I've recently heard of air filter element fitment problems on Purolater elements.

I know the one my daughter bought for me to install in her Kia, shure had a lot of flashing on it & n one place it had a chunk cut out right where it seals & hadto be returned for another one, that I had to clean the flashing uo on, before I could install it.

I don't know whats with Purolater, but I sure wasn't favorably impressed with their air filters finished quality or workmanship. They both looked like something produced in some third world country, so if your using them, be sure to check air box fit closely.

In fact no matter what brand we use, we should pay close attention to our air filters build quality, fit & properly fatening up the air box, air tube & any connecting hoses or sensors!!!!

Will be interesting to hear if new filters bring the silicon & iron readings into or below the average figures for this engine.

Here is a link to a nicely done & graphically plotted out air filter test, on some brand name filters, done to ISO-5011, you might find interesting.
http://home.usadatanet.net/~jpblock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

 

Dang I can't type, I can't spell, I can't even read what I've misspelled!!!
http://home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm