Do you put anything on your lawn in the springtime to get ride of the weeds? If so, what product do you use?

 

i use roundup in the spring, but then again, i dont have to cut anything either.

 

I use roundup every 2 cuts or so around the house, if it was up to me I would roundup the whole blasted yard but I did that the first year I moved here and my landlord pooped a brick.

 

When I was in charge of lawn care, I tried to get rid of the weeds and dandelions without a lot of chemicals or fertilizer in order to not have a lawn that was fertilizer dependant.

I physically removed the dandelions and used a weed killer that was okay for lawn.

 

I use 2-4-D to rid the lawn of dandelions and other types of weeds. Seems to work well. But, I never seem to get to it early enough because of windy conditions around here.

 

Last year I started using Scott's 4-step system on my lawn and I've had good results. Each step has a fertilizer combined with things like crabgrass preventer, weed killer, etc depending on which step and the time of year it's being applied. A couple years ago I thought my yard was doomed to extinction. Now it's looking great, but I know it's a long-term, consistent effort kind of thing.

 

2-4-D seems to work really good.

 

2,4-D (brand name Ortho Weed-B-Gone). IMPORTANT-Use the correct concentration for your type of turf grass. Most cool season grasses are similar though.

 

Same here, spray the whole lawn using the hose sprayer.

 

Is it o.k. to aerate anytime or does the grass need to be dormant?

 

From what I've read, aerating in the spring may cause more weed seeds to germinate.

 

You can aerate at anytime, but preferably after a rain when the ground is softer. The aeration does not propogate weed growth, it helps the grass by breaking up the thatch which inhibits proper root growth. First step in controling weeds is to lime in the fall, for the following growing season. The lime adds some nutrients but more importantly it pH balances the soil. Weeds like soil on the acidic side, moss and fungus like pH on the basic side. Neutral pH soil favors the grass. Fertilizers increase the acidity over time. For grubs and japanese beetles get Milky Spore (do a web search). It is a natural deterent to those grubs that destroy your lawn. Won't hurt the environment or pets, it is not a chemical. The grub eats the spores which prevent the grub from being able to digest. They then die, which in turn releases millions more spores into your lawn. The spores take about two years to reach full efficiency, but they last for up to twenty years after that with out further treatment.

Regiment starting in spring for Northeast U.S.:
crabgrass prevent + fertilizer, early spring
broadleaf control, mid spring
Grub control, mid spring
aerate, mid to late spring (soft ground preferably)
post crabgrass emergent control + fertilizer, early summer
broadleaf control, mid summer (depending on how hot it is, too hot/drought don't apply)
Fertilizer/winterizer + lime, fall
Overseed anytime between fall and spring. (seed will lie dormant through winter snow and will germinate in winter thaw and spring rains.)

I hope that helps.

 

I hire a lawn service to spray mine in the early spring...I don't know what they use, but it kills the weeds and the dude told me he put something in it to take care of crab grass as well....My understanding about Roundup is that you have to put it on early, or it will kill the grass too....I understand that with some folks that is not a problem...Anyway, it only cost from 60 to 80 dollars to have it sprayed...I figure that is the easiest and probably the cheapest way out.......my two cents.....!

 

Bigdmizer.....a question for you...How do you apply the lime....and is it hazardous if you get it on yourself.....I believe that the sack that I bought said not to get it on your skin.....just a question, cause I have a bag that I would like to use up....if it will be beneficial to my lawn.....?

 

This


this


and these for cutting out crabgrass