Interior Lighting Wiring
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
From: Elizabeth City, NC
Interior Lighting Wiring
Fixed it.
I can't believe I missed the obvious. If there was a break in the circuit (an open) somewhere than I would still measure 12VDC from ground to the center post of fixture. Because when measuring across an open you will get source voltage. Turns out the break occured in the fuse block. The fuse was good but the connector was rusty and not making good contact with it. Took out fuse, scraped connector clean, installed fuse, and then there was light. Now my cigarrette lighter works also!! Same fuse.
I can't believe I missed the obvious. If there was a break in the circuit (an open) somewhere than I would still measure 12VDC from ground to the center post of fixture. Because when measuring across an open you will get source voltage. Turns out the break occured in the fuse block. The fuse was good but the connector was rusty and not making good contact with it. Took out fuse, scraped connector clean, installed fuse, and then there was light. Now my cigarrette lighter works also!! Same fuse.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
Interior Lighting Wiring
Going by the manual and what I have found in my truck, a 1971 F-100, the power wire to the domelamp is a BLACK wire. There are two BLACK wires, one powers the dome lamp circuit, one powers the roof marker lamps.
This black wire runs over the door, down to the side of the dash and comes in through that rubber plug behind the dash. There is no ground wire. I have run a ground wire along the same route though and use the bolt holding the parking brake to the dash as a common ground point inside the cab.
This black wire runs over the door, down to the side of the dash and comes in through that rubber plug behind the dash. There is no ground wire. I have run a ground wire along the same route though and use the bolt holding the parking brake to the dash as a common ground point inside the cab.
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