The U-joints out by the wheel on my truck have completely destroyed what might have been needle bearings at one time. How hard of a job is it to replace them and also where can I find the spicer replacement u-joints?? I read on here that you can get them from NAPA, but when I called they said they no longer carry them. If anyone has done this and has a spicer part number that would be awesome. Thanks!

 

the u-joints are a pretty good job to do but not too bad. remove the lockout hubs then the brake caliper, then the rotor and hub by removing the wheel bearings (this would be a good time to repack the bearings and get new grease seals) then comes one of the difficult parts and thats getting the axle stub off the steering knuckle. there is a tool made that makes it really easy. it threads onto the stub then attach it to a slide hammer and yanks that baby off. i will find the tool on a website for you and post it. then you can slide the axle out and replace the u-joint.

not sure about the spicer u-joint but i just use napa u-joint with no problems.

i will post that tool when i find it

 

ok here is the part number but i don't have a link yet so you could call you local napa or tool store and get it. its an OTC #7502 4WD Front Spindle Puller here is a description of it

"This puller enables you to remove the front spindle on light-duty 4WD trucks. It’s designed for full-size Ford, GM, International, and Jeep pickups with Dana front axles. Also works on Ford Ranger and Bronco II.

5/8" fine thread makes it ideal for use with our No. 1155 slide hammer.

Fits spindle thread sizes 2"-16, 1-5/8"-16 and 38 mm-1.5."

if you have anymore question just ask

 

Are there any other specialty tools that I might need?? Also, should I get the greasable or non-greasable? I've heard the pros and cons of each.

 

you will also need a socket to fit the wheel bearing nuts. these are round and 4 square protrusions that match the 4 square cutouts on the nut. most parts stores should be able to get you the right ones. i use greasable joints but they both last about the same. other than that you should be good to go. have you done u-joints before? if not let me know and i can walk you through it.

 

No, I haven't done them before, but I was hoping to get someone to help me that has, although I'm not sure about his availability in the next couple of weeks. If you could give me an overview of what to watch for I would greatly appreciate it!! Thanks for all the help so far!

 

You dont need to by a special tool. a hammer and cold chisel usually work fine just tap around the spindle base between the base and the knuckle and they come off fine just work your way around the spindle and take it off evenly. the shafts wil just slide out. I work on this stuff daily. I actually have the OTC spindle puller but have yet to use it Heh! You may consider a U/Ball joint press. Or go old school and pop the clips with a hammer and screwdriver and then place the joint between a vice and just knock the joints out... much quicker than a press most of the time. Takes me all of 5 minutes to actually change out the U Joint itself. And Napa does carry them cuz I replaced all 3 of mine about a month ago. If you got the IFS to change the inner passanger joint you will need to remove the differential as the inner half of the axle in c clipped into the differential. If you are just doing the U joint in the knuckles then the passenger shaft will seperate at the rubber boot in the TTB

 

southpaw i too do this stuff everyday. you should give that puller a shot next time. i live in michigan and the rusted on stubs are no match for 3 blow from the slide hammer. it works very well.

97 as southpaw said if you have ifs (F-250) the inner joint on the passenger side is a difficult one but it can be done with the axle shaft in the truck. though it would be impossible without a press. i torch the old one out and hammer the caps out then press the new one in.

the key to a successful joint install is to not let a needle bearing get out of place. the best way to do that is to take the caps off the cross of the joint and put the croos into one side of the shaft then push it to one side and slide the cap onto the cross. now hold the cross with pressure into the cap as you tap/press the cap into the shaft. press the first cap into the shaft further than needed for install. this allows you to start the other side cap onto the cross before you tap the second cap into the shaft this also traps the needle from getting sideways. then install the clip into the first side and drive the both caps with the cross until the first cap is seated then you can install the second clip. now you need to make sure that the joint moves freely. it may be neccesary to loosen the joint by hitting the shaft near the second cap and driving the ear toward the first cap then it springs back and loosens the joint up so it will move freely.

hopefully you can figure out what i am talking about. maybe if i missed something or wasn't clear southpaw can also help.

keep us posted!