'69 - 360 won't start hot
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-02 AT 10:21 PM (EST)]Last week I acquired a 69 F-100 for my son to drive. We drove it 80 miles home and started it many times. I noticed it never got very warm according to guage. This weekend I flushed cooling system and put in a 195deg thermostat where there was NONE.
Now it actually seems to run better but when we turned it off it would not restart. Must be electrical something because even starter fluid down the carb (2bbl) had no effect. 3 hours later when the engine and compartment cooled down it started just fine.
Any ideas or suggestions. I don't want to get stuck for a three hour cool down.
I am planning to replace the carb because I was told it has s cored shaft and thus won't idle down without several foot taps.
Please Help
Richard
Now it actually seems to run better but when we turned it off it would not restart. Must be electrical something because even starter fluid down the carb (2bbl) had no effect. 3 hours later when the engine and compartment cooled down it started just fine.
Any ideas or suggestions. I don't want to get stuck for a three hour cool down.
I am planning to replace the carb because I was told it has s cored shaft and thus won't idle down without several foot taps.
Please Help
Richard
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From: Watauga TEXAS
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Does it crank and not start, or does it not crank at all?
If it's the first- put the pedal to the floor and then crack it until it starts. This would be the fuel-boil-over problem. Fuel is getting hot and boiling over into the intake after it sits for a while. When most of it evaporates, then it will start again.
If it's the second- check to make sure all your battery connections are clean and tight. Then check your starter solenoid and starter.
Hope this helps-
Joe
If it's the first- put the pedal to the floor and then crack it until it starts. This would be the fuel-boil-over problem. Fuel is getting hot and boiling over into the intake after it sits for a while. When most of it evaporates, then it will start again.
If it's the second- check to make sure all your battery connections are clean and tight. Then check your starter solenoid and starter.
Hope this helps-
Joe
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
The 360 would turn over just fine. It just would not start. I amsure that at one point we tried holding the pedal down as if it were flooded but we were probably getting low on battery at that time. I was really surprised that starter fluid was not hot enough to get it going.
Is the boil over problem common?? It is not nice.
If so what is the fix?
Was the previous owners removal of thermostat a fix? I would think that the heater would not work well in the winter with this old timer tactic.
Thanks,
Richard
Is the boil over problem common?? It is not nice.
If so what is the fix?
Was the previous owners removal of thermostat a fix? I would think that the heater would not work well in the winter with this old timer tactic.
Thanks,
Richard
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From: Watauga TEXAS
'69 - 360 won't start hot
>Was the previous owners removal of thermostat a fix?<
It could have been.
It is a common problem- one that has many fixes, though. You mentioned changing the carb. When you do, make sure that the fuel line from the fuel pump is metal- it has been my experience that rubber hose from the pump to the carb traps heat causing the fuel to get hot. It's ok to use a splice to connect the line to the carb, though. Also, if you have the stock spacer with the heater hoses running to it, remove the hoses and re-route them to bypass the spacer. This will keep the spacer from heating up due to the hot coolant running through it. Or you can replace the spacer with one that doesn't have the coolant passages. If you weren't going to change the carb, I'd recommend a rebuild kit to freshen up the needle and seat. But since you are replacing it due to a worn out shaft, you don't have to worry about this step.
These are pretty much all the steps that I have taken on both my trucks to keep them from boiling over. One more item to check is to make sure that you use the recommended mix of coolant in your cooling system. I have seen where if you use too much antifreeze, it could cause your engine temp to run hotter.
Joe
It could have been.
It is a common problem- one that has many fixes, though. You mentioned changing the carb. When you do, make sure that the fuel line from the fuel pump is metal- it has been my experience that rubber hose from the pump to the carb traps heat causing the fuel to get hot. It's ok to use a splice to connect the line to the carb, though. Also, if you have the stock spacer with the heater hoses running to it, remove the hoses and re-route them to bypass the spacer. This will keep the spacer from heating up due to the hot coolant running through it. Or you can replace the spacer with one that doesn't have the coolant passages. If you weren't going to change the carb, I'd recommend a rebuild kit to freshen up the needle and seat. But since you are replacing it due to a worn out shaft, you don't have to worry about this step.
These are pretty much all the steps that I have taken on both my trucks to keep them from boiling over. One more item to check is to make sure that you use the recommended mix of coolant in your cooling system. I have seen where if you use too much antifreeze, it could cause your engine temp to run hotter.
Joe
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From: Denver
'69 - 360 won't start hot
This sounds like a wire problem. What happens is the engine compartment gets hot and the wire from the starter solinoid to the starter, (the large wire) also gets hot and the resistance of the wire goes up letting less voltage through the wire. I would replace wire and try to rought it away from exhaust and mabey put a heat shield around it.
Robert
72 F-100 W/ 86 5.0L W/AOD
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Robert
72 F-100 W/ 86 5.0L W/AOD
krazdndenver(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Thanks for the help.
My best recollection is that the fuel line is metal all the way. I belive it comes out from just above the canister fuel filter. Which by the way has a loose barb fitting from the tank that we just tapped in snug with a mallet.I remember that it is metal as it goes through a fitting at the base of the carb.
If the SPACER is between the carburetor and the manifold I don't remember seeing one but will look tomorrow.
Thanks again,
Richard
My best recollection is that the fuel line is metal all the way. I belive it comes out from just above the canister fuel filter. Which by the way has a loose barb fitting from the tank that we just tapped in snug with a mallet.I remember that it is metal as it goes through a fitting at the base of the carb.
If the SPACER is between the carburetor and the manifold I don't remember seeing one but will look tomorrow.
Thanks again,
Richard
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Maybe starter wire -
The engine will turn over just fine. It wont run.
So maybe it is not tha wire but something to the plugs or coil. Am leaning toward the boil over at this point until I can check for spark at the plugs.
The engine will turn over just fine. It wont run.
So maybe it is not tha wire but something to the plugs or coil. Am leaning toward the boil over at this point until I can check for spark at the plugs.
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'69 - 360 won't start hot
Richard, How much of a gasket is under the carb? I had a simular problem with my truck, I added a 1" phenolic spacer under it and that seemed to help a lot. The PO could have removed the thermostat and the engine is running cooler and not showing up the problem as bad.
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'69 - 360 won't start hot
Richard, I recently had a similar hot start problem. Mine turned out to be more of an electrical problem than anything. I installed a 1000 CCA battery and 2 gauge cables. I also ran an additional 4 gauge cable from engine block to truck frame. Zero problems, even in Hellish Houston.
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Thanks to all the responders.
There is just a regular gasket under the carb. Will go ahead and install the Champion rebuilt carb and begin looking for a spacer.
Nedd a new battery anyhow so will get a high capacity. I guess that will let me crank it long enough to clear out excess fuel. Since it has enough continuity to crank I wonder what an additional ground to chassis would do beneficial.
If need be, I will back down to a 160 or lower thermostat. Hate to throw out the specified thermostat since the temp guage is only showing mid range while running.
Still trying,
Richard
There is just a regular gasket under the carb. Will go ahead and install the Champion rebuilt carb and begin looking for a spacer.
Nedd a new battery anyhow so will get a high capacity. I guess that will let me crank it long enough to clear out excess fuel. Since it has enough continuity to crank I wonder what an additional ground to chassis would do beneficial.
If need be, I will back down to a 160 or lower thermostat. Hate to throw out the specified thermostat since the temp guage is only showing mid range while running.
Still trying,
Richard
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From: Watauga TEXAS
'69 - 360 won't start hot
STOP WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!!!!!!
Do you still have points in your distributor? I can't believe we missed this. If you do, change the condensor. When they start to break down, they won't allow any spark to go through. Do this first and then test it.
It helps to remember the basics sometimes-
Joe
Do you still have points in your distributor? I can't believe we missed this. If you do, change the condensor. When they start to break down, they won't allow any spark to go through. Do this first and then test it.
It helps to remember the basics sometimes-
Joe
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From: Cary NC USA
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Thanks to all,
After degreasing to facilitate carburetor switch we checked and saw that there is a spacer with heater hose lines and just a regular gasket. Found one wire from the coil, which looks new, to distributor laying on manifold so rerouted it. We drove the truck till hot and let it sit for 7 or 8 min. It did not want to start with normal 1 pat and crank. It did start with the pedal held to the floor.
So probably is boil over.
Didn't get the carb in yet but will figure a way to reroute the heater hoses and cap off at the spacer. I will also put in new condensor and points.
Also will buy a high capacity battery to help get through it.
Sounds like there is a way to eliminate the Is there a kit to make it solid state??
Thanks,
Richard
After degreasing to facilitate carburetor switch we checked and saw that there is a spacer with heater hose lines and just a regular gasket. Found one wire from the coil, which looks new, to distributor laying on manifold so rerouted it. We drove the truck till hot and let it sit for 7 or 8 min. It did not want to start with normal 1 pat and crank. It did start with the pedal held to the floor.
So probably is boil over.
Didn't get the carb in yet but will figure a way to reroute the heater hoses and cap off at the spacer. I will also put in new condensor and points.
Also will buy a high capacity battery to help get through it.
Sounds like there is a way to eliminate the Is there a kit to make it solid state??
Thanks,
Richard
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 609
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From: Watauga TEXAS
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Pertronix makes a kit to change over to electronic ignition. It's a very easy and inexpensive kit. J C Whitney sells them. It's made to take the place of your points and condenser without any modifications.
By the way- there really is no need to cap off the spacer, as there is no connection between it and the manifold.
Good Luck-
Joe
By the way- there really is no need to cap off the spacer, as there is no connection between it and the manifold.
Good Luck-
Joe
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From: Chattanooga US
'69 - 360 won't start hot
Always ensure a good return route to the chasis ground. Had a similiar problem a few years ago, replaced the tiny ground strap with a huge one and no more problems. My 2%.:7
