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93 F-250 4.9l EFI 2wd
I was sifting through some stuff in my house and happened upon a remote starter kit we bought years ago. We never installed it because our cars were too new and had theft systems that required other crap to make it work. So anyways, I figured instead of letting this thing continue to collect dust, I might as well install this fancy piece of work to Ole' Blue. What I have is a Bulldog Security Remote Starter Model RS82. Has anyone installed these? Any advice or suggestions? I think I am going to go give it a whirll in a few minutes and see where it gets me. I'll pose in a bit and let ya all know my progress. any comments, throw them at me! Thanks.
Chris
I installed the viper edition remote start. I kinda messed up on the Morning wake for warm up. It was suppose to start at 630 run till operating temp then shut off and start again to maintain well It started at 230 and ran till I got up that morning at 700. Kinda funny cause it wasnice and toasty but my gas was feelin it
alrighty...i am not quite as inclined towards the electrical system of this truck. a handful of these i am sure i could figure out but some i am not sure of. here is the list of the wires i need to splice into. i know this is a lot to ask but if anyone knows where these wires are and their colors for my 93, i would be extremely grateful.
1. Constant Power (12V; key on and off) - do i have one or two constant power wires?
2. Ignition Wires (12V run and crank position only) - how many ign. wires do i have also?
3. Accessory Wire(s) that power heater/blower motor
4. Starter/Crank Wire (12V in start position only)
5. Brake Input
Also, where have you placed the computer parts to these things: in the engine well by the fuses or in the cab by the fuse box? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
Chris
I would pick up a Haynes/Chilton's manual to ID the wires you're looking for. For the constant 12V power, take it right off the battery terminal on the starter relay. Put a fuse in there, and you're all set.
brake input is very easy...it goes in your pedal so when you push it, it shuts off engine without you needing to press control.... i would pick haynes manual as well....
2 down, 3 to go...i have to make a run into town later to get some parts...i think i am going to get those quick splice things because to me, they seem much more organized than twisting the wires and using electrical tape. i do have a haynes manual. i looked at the diagrams, which were a bit helpful as well as confusing, which is why i posted here. whatever you all cannot figure out i will investigate further. i posted those questions because i didn't have the supplies to finish the job so i thought while i wait, i might as well see what you all thought. thanks and keep 'em comin'.
chris
MODEL YEAR(S)
F SERIES 1987 -1993
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A N/A N/A
PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER LOCK BLACK/ORANGE (TYPE C) IN EITHER KICK PANEL
POWER UNLOCK PINK/GREEN (TYPE C) IN EITHER KICK PANEL
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/BLUE (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
TACH TAN/YELLOW, See NOTE *2 @ IGNITON COIL
WAIT TO START LIGHT BLACK/PINK (-) See NOTE *3
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+)
FACTORY ALARM DISARM N/A
ANTI-THEFT N/A
EXTRA INFORMATION
NOTE *1 On this TYPE C System you MUST TEST from the DRIVERS DOOR Switch only when testing for SWITCH and MOTOR wires. NOTE *2 The DIESEL TACH wire is a WHITE/BLACK at the ALTERNATOR. NOTE *3 The WAIT TO START wire is at the WAIT to START LIGHT on the dash or at the GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER on the center, rear of the engine.
got it installed today...took about an hour and 45 minutes. worked on the first try. once i hopped in, it became easier than i made it out to be. thanks all for your help.
chris