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Cold air intake?

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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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Cold air intake?

Has anyone seen a cold air intake on our trucks? Or know how to build one.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 01:31 PM
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Most of our pickups had a cold intake from the factory. Some plastic tubing pulled air from the grill near the battery, then it passed through a flex hose to the air cleaner snorkle. If you wanted something more, do a search for dual snorkles. There's been lots of discussion in the past about dual snorkle air cleaners.

Marty
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 06:25 PM
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I have always considered the ram air box. Check it out at www-ramairbox-com. I think it cost about $200. I saw a truck somewhere on this website with a gallery of a ram air box install. I think it was a 73-79 F150 single cab truck.

The only draw back is if you drove though a mud pool or something messy which would be hard to clean out...
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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I used one of the Ram Air boxes, a well made piece. The way I set mine up may not be for everyone, I cut two 5" holes in rad saddle and welded some thin wall pipe to it for mounting the hose. The hose rises up to the airbox which helps keep water out when driving in the rain.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=44971&.jpg
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...oid=89403&.jpg
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 17, 2006 at 09:11 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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The problem with aftermarket boxes is they are not thermally regulated which will cause carb icing. It does not have to be freezing outside for ice to form on the carb venturi, all it has to be is cool with humidity which means it can happen just about anywhere in the US even in the desert (just not as likely). Carb icing is a difficult problem to diagnose since the ice will be gone by the time you up the hood and get the lid off.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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The RamAir box came with a large warning for carb icing. Since mine is a fair weather toy it's not a problem but something serious to consider if you drive year round in less then cool temperatures. I use the truck from May to October and have not had problems in cool temps (above 0 celsius).
 

Last edited by 77460ford; Apr 17, 2006 at 09:16 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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Carb icing can have a serious effect on your fuel mileage besides being dangerous. It can freeze the throttle shaft and prevent your throttle from moving.

I had a devil of a time with it on one vehicle that had a damaged heat riser tube that I pitched in the trash. It took me a month of lousy gas mileage and power loss b4 I finally got the carb open quickly enuf to see that last flake of ice melt away. I had suspected the problem for a week or so but I had been unable to observe it. There are charts on plane pilot websites that show the temp -v- humidity charts where it can be a problem.
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 17, 2006 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 09:26 PM
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All these warnings were included with the Ram Air box. For my use the box works well but I would not recommend it for a year round vehicle. I also don't have a choke which again is great for performance (my direction) but not practical for an everyday driver.
I wasn't trying to paint the Ram Air as a solution, just saying if the application was right it was a well made product.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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I've always thought about some type of hood scoop installed right into the front edge of that big bullnose hood of ours.A dual snorkle type air cleaner run from air intakes in the leading edge of the hood would/should get air similiar to an early 70s Formula Firebird hood.Scoops in the top of a 73 to 79 hood have to be very tall to reach above the boundry air created by our big flat nosed trucks.
Carb icing can be trouble,I'm in Northern NYS you just dont run the open air cleaner during those months.Dual heat stoves off both sides can do wonder.Torque is right jump out open the hood pull the air cleaner lid and the ice has melted allready.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by eedvark
...Torque is right jump out open the hood pull the air cleaner lid and the ice has melted allready.
I jumped out and looked like a Nascar pit crew and still had trouble seeing it. A few times I saw some moisture but even that vaporizes quickly. It was very frustrating. I had my aircleaner lid held down with a clothespin on the threaded rod when I was finally quick enuf to see it real well. With the gas mixed with the ice it kind of looked like that snow "out where the Huskies go".

Some articles:
starting on page 11: http://www.aopa.org/asf/publications/sa11.pdf
http://level2.cap.gov/documents/u_120903081720.pdf

Note temps in °C
http://ibis.experimentals.de/images/...omcaassl14.gif
-Notice at cruise throttle at 30-40%RH and over 100°F!!!
Similar chart with °F
http://www.ez.org/carb_ice.htm

Some FAA info:
The FAA's, Pilot's Handbook of Aeronautical Knowledge, AC 61-23C, states, in part: "Conditions conducive to carburetor icing: ...if the temperature is between 20 degrees F and 70 degrees F, with visible moisture or high relative humidity, the pilot should be constantly on the alert for carburetor ice. During low or closed throttle settings, an engine is particularly susceptible to carburetor icing."

The FAA's, Pilot Precautions and Procedures to be Taken in Preventing Aircraft Reciprocating Engine Induction System and Fuel System Icing Problems, AC 20-113, states, in part: Vaporization icing may occur at temperatures from 32 degrees F to as high as 100 degrees F with a relative humidity of 50 percent or above… Since aviation weather reports normally include air temperature and dew point temperature, it is possible to relate the temperature/dew point spread to relative humidity. As the spread becomes less, relative humidity increases and becomes 100 percent when temperature and dew point are the same. In general, when the temperature/dew point spread reaches 20 degrees or less, you have a relative humidity of 50 percent or higher and are in potential icing conditions."
I would be willing to wager there are a number of FTE users with this problem that are totally unaware of it. They are probably complaining about bad gas mileage, not enuf power, missing etc etc...
 

Last edited by Torque1st; Apr 17, 2006 at 11:18 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 05:30 AM
  #11  
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probably a good point torque, up here, it's always cold, and humid, icing is a normal thing. even with the factory equipment all hooked up, you learned to deal with it.

most of my driving is a short drive to and from work., so summer i have a cold air intake setup, with a k$n cone filter, winter is stock filter, and a flex pipe taking all air off the manifold. it makes quite a difference.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 09:59 PM
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Those factory temp sensors can be had in a number of different temperatures. You can also adjust them by heating that threaded tube just enuf to break the Locktite and then turning them. They are difficult to calibrate tho. When you get them set a tiny drop of the wicking type Locktite will hold them again. If you hook up a dual snorkel setup another manifold heat stove can be fabricated and used along with the second snorkel. It is best to make them from stainless and get someone to TIG weld them. I use a modified factory airbox all year round.
 
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