That's what I've been seeing in all of the research that I've done, that you have to rebuild the late model boxes or your steering will be backwards (turn left, pitman moves the opposite direct as it would on the EB box). From what I've been seeing of prices around here, if I bought a decent late model 4x4 box, a decent late model 4x2 box, and then had someone do the configuration / rebuild, I'd probably pay almost as much as I would if I just got a decent one off of eBay. I've seen a couple good looking ones go for under $500.

 

I personally would keep looking around and find one that fits like the stock box does. It requires the least amout of mods on early non power vehicles to fit and work correctly. There are several different boxes I have seen that fit well. The Toyota box bolt pattern is close, but needs massaging. Adapting a pitman to work requires some finesse. Last time I checked there was not a direct conversion kit available. I ended up finding a pitman arm with a smaller spline. Then heated it red hot and pressed the correct spline from a donor shaft thru, It took a few attempts to get a clean fit. But no cutting and welding. There is one late model replacement but dont know what its original application is. It has the stock three bolt pattern and another with a forth mounting hole. I have the four hole version. It appears to be nearly an exact replacement. I found one at a swap meet for $10. The Toyota box I have was only $5 and the Pate swap meet a few years ago. Even though there are a lot of truck box conversions done, none really just bolt on without major compromises, IMHO. That means ther is no need to debeat my opinion, since it is just my opinion. I have seen many stock boxes sell on ebay around the $200-300 range used. Many come with a pump and hoses. Keep your eyes open and you might get lucky before having to compromise. I have 2 and 4wd truck boxes that were removed from EB's. Some peoples limited mechanical abilities and access to only the Home Depot or True Value hardware store to do their own builds leave much to be desired. Especially if they are actually going to drive it on the road.

 

Fordtrucks brings up some very good points. None of the PS options other than the factory EB PS box can be simply bolted up. Further, to install any of the other options requires - absoutely requires - frame mods done by a skilled welder. Too many idiots simply punch new holes through the frame and then wonder later why the frame fails and the box comes loose. Plating, gussets, internal crush tubes..all these 'things' go along with completing any of the conversion steering installs.

We wheel and race our rigs HARD..they are competition trucks. For that application, the 2x4 F150 box (as shown in the first pic I posted) has worked out the best ...and also requires the most frame mods and extra fabrication to get right.

 

BTW..there are quite a few stock EB PS boxes (6-turn and 4-turn) on Ebay right now from 100 bucks and up...

West Texas Offroad does a great job rebuilding them if you have - or can snag cheaply - a good core. IIRC its around 150 bucks plus shipping to get one done by them and the quality of their work is superb.

 

That's just it, I was looking for something that required little modification. I've been looking at IFS Toyota boxes as well, and am kind of waiting for that "yeah, it's taking up space, I just want to get rid of it" deal to come along before I go that route.

 

When you turn the wheel left on a Bronco or 150 4x4 the box gear turns right that's why it's call a right hand steer box, whereas on the 150 4x2 it turns left and is called a left hand steer box.

 

NO. Please read the previous explanations above on how and why you have to reverse the rotation on an F150 4x4 box to use it in an EB. On the full-size Bronco and the F150 4x4 the pitman arms faces forward. On an EB it faces rearward. So to get the correct steering direction the boxes rotate in opposite directions for the same direction of the steering wheel.

 

Actually, many of the Bronco parts suppliers are offering a NEW, not rebuilt Saginaw steering box conversion that uses the factory holes. They aren't cheap, but they are a quick ratio box and they give a really nice road feel.

IMO and experience, I've never liked the 2wd box conversions. Between the increased leverage on the frame, drag link angles and steering geometry (BUMP STEER), they are just not worth the trouble. I've built and driven nearly all of the common swapped boxes and a few you may never heard of. I've never been happy with the way that the 2wd boxes feel and drive, no matter what changes are made to correct the problems.

The hybrid 4x4/ 4x2 boxes are great. They are commonly available, cheap, and the road manners and feel seem to be just right.

Some others to check in to:
66 Lincoln Cont.- Similar to the F series 2wd, but with a shorter output shaft
Nissan IFS- 85-93- Like the Toyota swap
Scout II
Saginaw 800- regular old GM box
None of these are a direct bolt on.

Jason

 

Good point on the availability of 'new' boxes that bolt on..but the thread started out as a quest for a cheapie solution that bolted on..i.e some other box off some other Ford.

I've actually been quite happy with the F-150 2wd box on my crawler, which is lifted 5.5". I have the frame bracket and cross-brace parts from WH so no issues whatsoever with frame stress. Steering geometry is good too (and no dropped pitman arm required either), and it handles the road great..even though its sitting on 39.5" IROKS. All that said, I would not try to use the 2wd box on one that was not lifted 5.5"...they do hang down too much for a truck with less, or no, lift.

 

Yeah, those kits are kinda high dollar for the budget minded. But, for someone with limited fab skills or resources, they are the easiest option in many cases. Buying a used box off the net or ebay can be a crap shoot. You may get lucky and get a good working box, or you may get a worn out core that isn't worth rebuilding. If you do get a good box, you need to come up with a column and shafts or some spicer PTO parts to connect the stock column to the box. And a pump and brackets. If you don't have everything you need, it can take a few trips to the parts store to get it all together.

I personally found a cheap used 4 turn box and put together my own column setup with 3/4" shaft and u joints, which has served pretty well for about 10 years. I need to send it in to West Texas and have it rebuilt and ported along with a better pump before I go with the larger tires.

In any case I would recommend going with a Saginaw pump over the factory Ford pump. They work much better and are more reliable than the Ford pump.
They are available from most of the Bronco guys. They are available through napa, but I can't remember the part # right now.


BMC69:Thats great that you have had good luck with them. Do you have a ram assist setup on yours? Does take a lot of the stress away from the steering box. I've repaired many frames due to the 2wd boxes, even with the aftermarket braces and other homebuilt versions.


Jason

 

West Texas is the bomb..great work from those folks. And, yes, the Sag upgrade is a must..I have hydroboost too, so I'm running a Sag 2-return pump off the Lincoln that donated the H-boost setup.

I have the box ported and I have the ram..and for almost two years now I've been trying to figure out the best way to mount the ram so its not a rock muncher...and still figuring. I reinforced the frame a lot before the 2wd box even went on to it..I've been building and racing (TT/MX) EBs for a long time (I have 7 EBs all together...it's a disease) so I know where the 'weak spots' are when it comes to upgrades like that