front hub/rotor question????????
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 234
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From: Mount Tremper, New York
front hub/rotor question????????
ok so a situation came up, that i really need/want to replace my front rotors/hub/bearings/lug studs.....
long story short...wheel locks....broke the key...cut off studs...only have 4 lugs on 3 wheels
so the front hub/rotors, the old ones, are very rusty and worn. so i want to replace them, i saw the ones on broncograveyard.com, and found others on RockAuto.com. now i know these are the right parts, the hub rotor assmebly.
now NPD has listed under "Rotor" the part, for only $39...
could that only be the rotor? or is it all one peice with the hub? i havnt had a chance to take it apart and look, but are the hubs on my '91 one peice?
long story short...wheel locks....broke the key...cut off studs...only have 4 lugs on 3 wheels
so the front hub/rotors, the old ones, are very rusty and worn. so i want to replace them, i saw the ones on broncograveyard.com, and found others on RockAuto.com. now i know these are the right parts, the hub rotor assmebly.
now NPD has listed under "Rotor" the part, for only $39...
could that only be the rotor? or is it all one peice with the hub? i havnt had a chance to take it apart and look, but are the hubs on my '91 one peice?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 693
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From: Hoboken, NJ...
No they are two pieces. The price you found for $39 sounds like its just for the rotor.
When I did mine I got the rotor hub assemblies from Rock auto. They are Raybestos PG Plus, and they came with the bearing races, and lugs installed. That makes the job very easy.....I also recommend replacing the seals, and using Timkin brand wheel bearings.
You may want to also replace the spindle bearing while your in there.....I did not, but next time I replace the rotors I will be also replacing them.
When I did mine I got the rotor hub assemblies from Rock auto. They are Raybestos PG Plus, and they came with the bearing races, and lugs installed. That makes the job very easy.....I also recommend replacing the seals, and using Timkin brand wheel bearings.
You may want to also replace the spindle bearing while your in there.....I did not, but next time I replace the rotors I will be also replacing them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Buying the pre-assembled rotors is the only way to go. You'll warp the rotors installing the wheel studs and then you'll need to get them turned once they're together. Unless you work in a brake shop and have a lathe right there, it's just too much hassle.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
I'll second BRK's idea. I've never had a problem replacing rotors by driving out the studs and replacing them. You do need to support your work so that you don't damage the components. I've successfully done the swap two or three times on different trucks.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 171
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From: Jacksonville
Even more fun is trying to drive all the lugs back through the new rotor without tearing anything up, if you haven't had too many beers it should go smoothly.. .
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 193
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From: Myrtle Beach, SC
iwork in a tire and brake shop and its no problem changing the rotor on the hub. lay the rotor on a table, take big hammer and smash out the lug bolts, comes right apart, we always replace the lugs when we replace the rotor. place the rotor in a vice face down where the lugs will come through, use a long punch, we use a broke 3/4 drive extension, drive the lugs right in. no problem and you wonr warp the rotor kenny 
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 240
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From: Columbia MO
when I swapped out my rotors I started my studs with a brass punch and then I pulled the studs the rest of the way in with the lug nuts it worked pretty easy and very little effort. ( use plenty of anti sieze on the threads)
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 646
Likes: 3
From: Derbyshire, UK.
I changed my rotors at the weekend and with a 3 ton fly press the studs came out with little effort. That was the easy part....
The harder part is retracting the caliper piston enough to let the caliper fit with the extra thick rotors and new pads.
Once its all reassembled check the lug nuts after a 100miles or so as the studs might not have fully bottomed out when you first tightened them and you'll find you now have loose lug nuts from the studs moving with wheel vibration.
The harder part is retracting the caliper piston enough to let the caliper fit with the extra thick rotors and new pads.
Once its all reassembled check the lug nuts after a 100miles or so as the studs might not have fully bottomed out when you first tightened them and you'll find you now have loose lug nuts from the studs moving with wheel vibration.
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