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I recieved a 1979 f100 (shortbed) one owner truck from my fiancee's father. The truck was parked about 3 years ago, which I recently found out was due to a burnt valve. I checked auto-zone for the vacuum diagram, but it's a bit difficult to understand. I changed heads, and replaced the old carburetor but I'm having a few problems. 1) I need a better explination of the vacuum wiring diagram for my carb(motorcraft 2150), I'm not the most mechanically inclined. The truck has a 351M. Before I changed heads, I noticed one plug was NOT firing. So I bought a new distributor after the cap and button had no effect. I started driving it, after hooking up the lines and such the best I could and the catalytic converter turns RED hot - to the point where it will actually shoot flames. I have a feeling the plug, STILL isn't firing. What could be the cause of this? New wires, new plugs, etc. I even replaced the exhaust system about two weeks before I replaced the heads, so I don't think it's a catalytic converter problem..
Any help would be greatly appreciated, a great forum you guys have here!
Sounds like it running too lean,that can cause the hot converter.You may also want to check the timing.Too lean may also be causing the plug not to fire if it's not getting gas or it may all be in the pollution crap Whatever it is I would suggest getting it fixed before driving it to much.
Its either a plugged catalytic converter or you have atleast one cylinder which is not firing and its dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. Check your plugs and see if one or more arent firing.
I will check the plugs first, this afternoon. I'm wondering if it's only one what could possibly be the problem except the cap and the button? I'm thinking maybe I got a defective one, because I'm pretty much in-time.
I was also wondering if any other members had photos of this year of trucks smog and vacuum, so I can get it hooked up the way it should be.
If the catalytic is plugged, it can be checked with vacuum guage, or just put your hand on the rear tailpipe, and have some one rev the engine. Check if the exhaust flow feels restricted. CAUTION: exhaust fumes will be hot, do not burn your hand.
I'll be sure to check the catalytic converter, but i'm still thinking it's a plug not firing. Thanks for the input so far, i'll let you guys know what's going on in a bit.
I checked the converter, it is not plugged. The second plug back, wasn't firing and it started ticking and missing bad when I let it run. I pulled the valve pan cover off the driver side, and 3 push rods had jumped off the rocker arm. It bent the back one completely. I'm very tired of working on it, and it was run hard today when I brought her home. It missed slightly when I first started it up after putting everything back together, but nothing like it is now. I'm not sure if the pushrods weren't seated correctly or what, but is there anything else that could cause them to do this?
if the push rods have jumped check for broken valve springs as well. I had a 400m and I broke a couple of valve springs and they caused the pushrods to bend. Bitch to get them out too!
incorrectly set valve lash would be the cause of your problem, get out your engine crank bar/socket and feeler gauge, if the rockers arent set correctly they will jump off and bend pushrods if they r too tight they will bend em and keep your valves from seating, if they r too loose they will just jump off
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