at least get em checked for any cracks.
2 problems on new 79..
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
2 problems on new 79..
Well I just bought a 79 Bronco, and have a couple of issues with it.
1st, my oil is greyish, and my antifreeze is missing, I'm making the assumption that what is supposed to be in my rad, is now become one with my engine oil. Is this most likely just a head gasket, or is it common on the 460 to have a cracked head.
This truck has had the 460 conversion done at some point in time, prior to the guy I bought the truck from.. He bought it as a project, but never did anything with it.
2nd.. My master cylinder stays full, and I have front brakes with no fluid reaching the rear lines, I believe it's my proportioning valve. Also when I push the pedal to the floor, it is solid then slowly drops to the floor of the truck. If this is a shot master, do I have to replace the vacuum booster. Or is there a way to test the booster..
Thanks guys..
1st, my oil is greyish, and my antifreeze is missing, I'm making the assumption that what is supposed to be in my rad, is now become one with my engine oil. Is this most likely just a head gasket, or is it common on the 460 to have a cracked head.
This truck has had the 460 conversion done at some point in time, prior to the guy I bought the truck from.. He bought it as a project, but never did anything with it.
2nd.. My master cylinder stays full, and I have front brakes with no fluid reaching the rear lines, I believe it's my proportioning valve. Also when I push the pedal to the floor, it is solid then slowly drops to the floor of the truck. If this is a shot master, do I have to replace the vacuum booster. Or is there a way to test the booster..
Thanks guys..
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
First, Welcome to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum!
The grey oil is a problem. The missing antifreeze is the same problem. I've not heard of the 460 being particularly hard on cylinder heads but I've only dealt with three or four of them. Could just be a head gasket but if the antifreeze is gone, its either been like that for a while or the problem is more severe.
Project that he never did anything with.. alas, it sounds like he passed on the bad head, gasket, block (whatever it turns out to be) to you.
You don't need to replace the booster unless it won't hold vacuum and you should be able to hear it leak if it is bad. Notice I said "should" its not a guarantee. The MC can (and should based on your description) be replaced independantly of the booster.
The grey oil is a problem. The missing antifreeze is the same problem. I've not heard of the 460 being particularly hard on cylinder heads but I've only dealt with three or four of them. Could just be a head gasket but if the antifreeze is gone, its either been like that for a while or the problem is more severe.
Project that he never did anything with.. alas, it sounds like he passed on the bad head, gasket, block (whatever it turns out to be) to you.
You don't need to replace the booster unless it won't hold vacuum and you should be able to hear it leak if it is bad. Notice I said "should" its not a guarantee. The MC can (and should based on your description) be replaced independantly of the booster.
Last edited by greystreak92; Apr 12, 2006 at 12:13 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,406
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From: Wheatland, Mo
WHat Greystreak said.
I had the same issue with my brakes on my Bronco and it turned out to be the slave cylinders. Did a replacement kit on them and all was well. (Pedal fading to the floor)
As for the no fluid to the rears, then I too would replace the proportioning valve.
I had the same issue with my brakes on my Bronco and it turned out to be the slave cylinders. Did a replacement kit on them and all was well. (Pedal fading to the floor)
As for the no fluid to the rears, then I too would replace the proportioning valve.
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
Sounds good on the brakes..
As for the antifreeze, I checked it when I picked it up, kinda did a quick tune up, started and ran excellent, didn't blow blue, or grey, much, it had been sitting for the winter, so there was a little.
Drove it about 60 miles, and it quit ignition box pucked, so I got it towed home. When I checked the antifreeze, it was empty, I didn't notice the temp gauge on the truck move, and the oil was milky.
is there anything I need to know before I replace the head gaskets? I've only rebuilt SBC before.. I know I'll need the head and intake gaskets, and probibly a set of manifold gaskets as well.. Anything I'll be missing?
As for the antifreeze, I checked it when I picked it up, kinda did a quick tune up, started and ran excellent, didn't blow blue, or grey, much, it had been sitting for the winter, so there was a little.
Drove it about 60 miles, and it quit ignition box pucked, so I got it towed home. When I checked the antifreeze, it was empty, I didn't notice the temp gauge on the truck move, and the oil was milky.
is there anything I need to know before I replace the head gaskets? I've only rebuilt SBC before.. I know I'll need the head and intake gaskets, and probibly a set of manifold gaskets as well.. Anything I'll be missing?
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: USA_NY
Complete rebuild is prob your next step...Really aint a bad thing...Gotta do it sooner or later...At the least gaskets/bearings or rings....And hopefully the antifreeze is gasket related...Or its gotta all be pressure checked...Good start $200 fix bad is whole new motor and cost of getting the old block proved garbage....Id use a pressure guage and spray the motor to see if any bubbles are coming off the block heads etc...could do it running as well I guess.......
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Freshman User
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
Yes, it would be nice to have them valve ground, honed, shaved, a little port and polish work, with a nice set of adjustable rockers. But I think for the time being, I'll stick to shaping the gasket and getting her running nice first.. lol..
I was meaning more so, is there anything gasket wise, that I should be replacing..
Gaskets needed:
Intake
Carb
Manifold
Head
I'm thinking I might do valve stem seals as well, is this the same as on a Small block Chevy? At least I know then that I don't have oil leaking through them.
Thanks agian.
I was meaning more so, is there anything gasket wise, that I should be replacing..
Gaskets needed:
Intake
Carb
Manifold
Head
I'm thinking I might do valve stem seals as well, is this the same as on a Small block Chevy? At least I know then that I don't have oil leaking through them.
Thanks agian.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
You will need to get the congealed oil/coolant OUT of the crankcase! Rebuilding ANY part and leaving that crud in there will just put you back to square one. And it won't just drain out like the oil. As for the heads, be careful redoing the top of the motor and leaving the bottom to its own devices. Regaining compression up top with old (possibly damaged from the coolant mix) rings in the bottom will only serve to blow them out quicker. Not wanting to sound like an alarmist here. Just making the possibilities known.
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
Good point about the compression.. But I'm hoping to avoid, at this point in time, the possibility of a complete engine rebuild. I have a really good feeling that the bottom end would need new pistons and rings if I was to open it up. And that's a couple grand I don't have just yet..
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