I have had this problem with my truck for some time now. I would start the truck and it would run for a few seconds. Then it would die like a lack of fuel, pushing down on the accelerator does not help when the truck starts to die. Once the truck dies it will not start up again. My truck has not been started for the last month because of this problem. In past times pushing on the wires on the fuel selector controll let it start up so I thought it was just some loose wires on the fuel selector. Now the fuel selector does not seem to be the problem, with the ignition on I can hear the switch click when it changes tanks but the truck will still not start. I have heard that it could be a cracked fuel line or a bad secondary inline fuel pump. I have a 1988 F-250 XLT Lariet diesel with a 7.3 liter. I have other problems with the truck but I think that they have nothing to do with this other problem, they are too small of batteries, bad glow plugs, and bad glow plug controller. I need to get an estimate as early as possible this week from a local shop and I need to know what all can cause the no starting problem and what it would cost to fix each possible problem. I will be taking all of the informaion on what I know about it to them for a quote. I am unable to have the vehicle taken into the shop for the quote. Please let me know on all the possibilities on what this problem is. I would rather get a quote of a cost that is above the actual cost than to have one that is below. I will be replacing the glow plugs and controller with motorcraft and replacing the the batteries with interstate 1000cca as well as all of this. Thanks.

 

You have an air leak in the return lines that is letting the fuel drain out of the filter.
Pumping the throttle does nothing to a diesel, no accelerator pump to shoot more fuel in the engine.

 

Can it realy be that simple?
"I would start the truck and it would run for a few seconds. Then it would die like a lack of fuel, pushing down on the accelerator does not help when the truck starts to die. Once the truck dies it will not start up again. My truck has not been started for the last month because of this problem. In past times pushing on the wires on the fuel selector controll let it start up so I thought it was just some loose wires on the fuel selector. Now the fuel selector does not seem to be the problem, with the ignition on I can hear the switch click when it changes tanks but the truck will still not start."
Last summer, the summer of 2005 this problem first happened and playing with the wires on the fuel switch seemed to help. I forgot to mention that when I was able to get the truck to start it would soulnd and feel like a few of the cylinders got some fuel and then some air. The truck would partially start until it sounded like it got full full and sustained life. Is is really that simple to having just a cracked fuel line?

 

one very important part. is the line from #1 injector to the top of the fuel filter still hooked up?? if it is, i can almost gaurentee that is your problem.
it will start and run for 1-2 seconds, then die, and you have to crank it forever to start it back up when cold, but let it sit for 3-4 hours it starts rite up..correct??

 

If the return lines are painted gray then replace ALL hoses and clamps. Also check along the frame for corrosion on the fuel lines especially around the frame clamps.Found a lot of rust on mine replaced the bad spot with fuel line hose and haven't had a problem since.

 

In the summer of 2005, that is exactly what happened. This last time it happened I had little fuel so I got a quarter tank and the truck died again at the station. My batteries were low due to a loose alternator belt so I had to use a vehicle jump started for that little extra power. After about 15 minutes I was able to start the truck and drive back to my schools parking lot (I live at school, college) and it has not started since. I think it all has to due with the fact that my batteries are dead and there is not a vehicle on campus that can exactly jump start my truck. Currently I am using a small solar panel (18.8 volts 3.2 watts) to slow charge the batteries. They should be fully charged in a couple more weeks. Big batteries = long charge time.
What exactly do you mean when you said "the line from #1 injector to the top of the fuel filter still hooked up?? if it is, i can almost gaurentee that is your problem." If the line is still hooked up how is that the problem? Does anyone have a picture of what I can look for. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

if the fuel return bypass line is not removed, when you get a small leak in the return lines it will let air into the lines allowing the fuel in the filter to drain back to the tank, then when you try to start it, you will only run on the fuel in the lines and injector pump before it dies.
below is a picture of my filter housing with the bypass line removed. you will see a brass plug between the schrader valve and the sending unit. the line will be hooked to a fitting there if it is still on your truck. if it is, remove it and plug the filter, and you can temporarily plug the line with a screw and hose clamp.
then fill the fuel filter before trying to start it. you may have to try a few times.
each time it dies, refill the filter before trying to restart it. it is a pain in the azz, but after 3 or 4 fills of the fuel filter it should be purring along like new.


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...deleteplug.jpg

 

I took a look at my fuel filter assembly. It is the same except the three connections facing the camera and going from left to right in the picture. The left is capped, the middle has a grey worn and cracked in a million places line with a wet spot near the top of the line, and the third has an electrical connection. When I take my truck to the shop, should I have the hose replaced or is it better to leave it disconnected. Also I plan to run WVO this summer. Will having this bypass replaced or revoved be better for running the WVO. If you do not know on the WVO, I will eventuall post in the alternative fuels section. Thanks, this helps me greatly.

 

that middle line is the one to get rid of. all it does is lets the fuel filter drain out when you get a leak. there was a tsb issued in 89 on the elimination of the line if you have a problem.

 

Thanks for all the help. As soon as I gan get into town I will be getting some diesel to fill the fuel filter and fix that line. These answers have save me lots of money, now I have to focus on the battery, glow plugs, and glow plug controller. If the removal of this line works or not I will eventually post back.

Thanks again for all the help,

Orpackrat

 

Yup, same thing with mine. It wouldn't start after it had been sitting, so I plugged that fitting on the filter and capped the return line. Much better. Also, this is crucial to a WVO conversion as you don't want any WVO returning to the diesel filter. The IDI is a great and very easy truck to convert. Mine is running great, about 5000 miles so far. If you have any questions about converting yours drop me a line.

Shane
(Click Here to find out why email addresses are removed from posts.)

88 F250 4X4 157K, ATS turbo, Gear Venders OD, 33" Coopers, american racing Outlaw II's, ARE Hi-Boy topper, 4:10's, air lift suspension, Boost-Pyro-water temp-WVO temp-WVO vacuum-WVO fuel gauges, 91 gallon aux tank

 

I removed the fuel filter to add fuel and try to start and the filter was a little less than an inch from the top of the fuel filter. Is this normal? I am currently not able to start because of my batteries being dead but I am trying to find someone with a big enough vehicle to jump mine. Thanks,

Orpackrat

 

filter should be full. You have an air leak someplace in the system. keep looking.