I have a friend with a '96 S10 4.3 2wd 4L60E with a blown tranny and a good '96 4l60E 4x4 tranny. I searched high and low on the internet and it looks like the two trannys use different output shafts, with the 4x4 shaft being about 3 inches shorter than its 2wd counterpart. I have heard that a complete teardown is required to change over the shafts and I should just trade someone for a 2wd tranny. Im a ford man myself but surely someone has worked on some bowtie stuff. Thanks in advance for replies.


-John

 

John,
Yes, a partial dissassembly of the tranny is necessary. There is a snap ring that must be removed before the output shaft can be changed. You can only get to the snap ring by taking the guts out of the front half of the tranny. The shaft can actually come out from the rear after that. I just checked one of my manuals. The shafts are identical on their respective front halves, just the back half of the shaft is different. Some special tools are required to take the tranny apart. It's not all that hard in reality. Buy a manual before you dive in. The 4L60E is an all electronic operated version of the older 700-R4. Hope this helps. LindenBruce

 

Being as I work on these things day in and day out, I will say that it is a VERY simple proposition.

I can spell this out for you in 20 steps...requires no special tools (90 degree snap ring pliers a must though).

Once the transmission is out:
1. Pull the torque convertor
2. Pull the pan
3. Pull the filter, pull the TCC solenoid (wire harness hard wired) out of the pump.
4. Pull the valve body off (mark bolt locations) then pull out the 2-4 band retainer pin
5. Pull the pump (gently pry on the backside...key is GENTLY!!) You can get to the lower left and lower right sides through holes in the case.
6. Pull out the reverse clutch/input clutch housing (just grab the input shaft and pull straight up) then pull out the 2-4 band.
7. Pull out the other parts that just pull straight out until you get to a small stub in a planet carrier. (right after you pull out a sun gear) There will be a small external snap ring (should be yellow). This is the hardest part. Use 90 degree snap ring pliers to remove the clip....the output shaft will pull right out.
8. Install the other output shaft and install a NEW clip (yellow snap ring). The correct pliers will make this so much easier.
9. Install the sun gear and one way clutch.
10. Hopefully you left the reverse clutch drum on the input housing. If not, install it now. Make sure all 4 clutch splines engage.
11. SLOWLY lower/rotate/rock input housing clutches onto one way clutch and sun shell....take your time and get it all the way down. The top of the reverse housing should be slightly lower than the pump mounting surface.
12. Install the 2-4 band....yes, it will fit between the reverse drum housing and case.
13. Make sure the plastic thrust washer is mounted to the backside of the pump.
14. Reinstall the pump with a new gasket and square cut o-ring.
15. Put the pump bolts in and torque them to 25 ft. lbs. (criss cross). MAKE SURE TO TURN THE INPUT SHAFT EVERY SO OFTEN AND MAKE SURE IT STILL TURNS. If it binds up as you tighten the pump bolts, you've got a stacking issue (probably input housing). Take the pump back out and re-stack the housing.

16. Install the valve body with new gaskets. Make sure the correct bolt goes in the correct hole. There are 3 different lengths for the valve body, 2 head sizes, and don't forget the accumulator and hold down plate in the back. Torque bolts in circular pattern from center-out to 106 in. lbs.

17. Install the TCC solenoid and electrical connections.
18. Install filter
19. Install pan
20. Install torque convetor.


EDIT:
If you have an integral bellhousing (you should on a 96), you can follow these. If you have a bolt-on bellhousing, you'll need to find a T-50 PLUS socket to remove the bolts. They go back on at 45 ft.lbs.

Cody