Ignition Woes
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From: South Texas
Ignition Woes
So I've been having problems with a lack of spark. I have a thread a bit back on this issue but the problem has changed so I'm starting a new one. My truck is an 87 with the 4 banger and 5-spd.
The problem is there isn't any spark. Before I had detected spark from the ignition coil, but now there is none. I know at least that the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires are all good resistance wise. I also performed some tests on the ignition coil and found that it checks out resistance wise. I also tested for voltage going to the coil and found 11 volts going to it (it fluctuated between 10 and 11, but this might just have been because of my cheap multimeter). I also know that the ignition module is good.
So I've basically eliminated the easy stuff. The voltage going to the coil would mean that the ignition switch is probably ok, right? What else can I test? Is there any way to test the stator in the distributor? Any help/ideas would be really appreciated as I've been fighting with this truck for months and really want to get it back on the road.
The problem is there isn't any spark. Before I had detected spark from the ignition coil, but now there is none. I know at least that the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires are all good resistance wise. I also performed some tests on the ignition coil and found that it checks out resistance wise. I also tested for voltage going to the coil and found 11 volts going to it (it fluctuated between 10 and 11, but this might just have been because of my cheap multimeter). I also know that the ignition module is good.
So I've basically eliminated the easy stuff. The voltage going to the coil would mean that the ignition switch is probably ok, right? What else can I test? Is there any way to test the stator in the distributor? Any help/ideas would be really appreciated as I've been fighting with this truck for months and really want to get it back on the road.
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From: South Texas
Can anyone give me any more useful information/testing procedures for the distributor in my truck? It is the TFI electronic setup with the ignition module mounted to the distributor. Any info would be appreciated.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Abilene Kansas
Originally Posted by Dave257
Take a look in the techical post at the top of the forum. I think there is a good write up for the TFI's there.
Dave
Dave
Matt
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From: South Texas
Thanks to the excellent tests posted in the tech thread I think I have found my problem. It looks like it is the ignition switch as there isn't any voltage going from it to the ignition module.
Does anyone have any helpful info or pointers on replacing the ignition switch? I've never replaced one of these before and it looks like a bit of a pain.
Does anyone have any helpful info or pointers on replacing the ignition switch? I've never replaced one of these before and it looks like a bit of a pain.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Very simple. As I recall the lock cylinder has to come out so that the upper half of the plastic shroud around the steering column will come off.
Then use a pair of vice grips to remove the "anti theft screws" on the switch.
Make sure the pin hole in the new switch is inserted into the pin in the column. Tighten the switch screws and your done.
It's all in your Haynes manual.
Then use a pair of vice grips to remove the "anti theft screws" on the switch.
Make sure the pin hole in the new switch is inserted into the pin in the column. Tighten the switch screws and your done.
It's all in your Haynes manual.
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From: South Texas
I've already got the shroud off and have looked at the switch. It appears to have two bolts with odd heads on them. I'll try your vice grip suggestion. My Chiltons manual said I had to drill the bolts out, something about snap off heads or some such. I'm going to try to pull them out with the grips as you suggested when I get home. Too bad I have to wait till tomorrow for the switch but hopefully it will be the only thing wrong with my truck. Thanks for the info.
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From: South Texas
After a bit of trying I was able to get the original switch out with vice grips. I ordered a new Motorcraft switch and it came with some strange bolts. They have a dome head with a torx pattern on top, only there is a little "nipple" in the middle of the star. Do these take a special tool to install I'm assuming? Should I just use the pliers and reinstall the old bolts? I've never seen a bolt head like this before, anyone else ever seen them?
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From: South Texas
I've met with failure once again. I replaced the ignition switch with a new one (Motorcraft). Unfortunately I still have the same problem, no power from the switch to the ignition module. So still no spark. I tried the test several times and still came up with zero power from switch to module. There is plenty of juice to ignition coil, and on the run wire. What do I do now? A visual inspection of the wires seemed ok, and there doesn't seem to be any splices or fusible links on this line, at least according to my wiring diagram. I'm stumped.
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From: riverside
another way i usually deal with those tamper resistant torx is with a small screw driver and a small hammer, i just knock the center out of it by working it back and forth with the screw driver, try to get it as low as possible. If you have a small enough chisel might even be able to just shear it out instead of just flexing it until it gives up.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by irishguyincc
I've met with failure once again. I replaced the ignition switch with a new one (Motorcraft). Unfortunately I still have the same problem, no power from the switch to the ignition module. So still no spark. I tried the test several times and still came up with zero power from switch to module. There is plenty of juice to ignition coil, and on the run wire. What do I do now? A visual inspection of the wires seemed ok, and there doesn't seem to be any splices or fusible links on this line, at least according to my wiring diagram. I'm stumped.
The Ford factory wiring diagram shows that with the key on you should have 12 volts on the Red/light green wire at the ignition module AND 12 volts on Red/light green at the coil.
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From: St. Peter
Originally Posted by Eric.S
another way i usually deal with those tamper resistant torx is with a small screw driver and a small hammer, i just knock the center out of it by working it back and forth with the screw driver, try to get it as low as possible. If you have a small enough chisel might even be able to just shear it out instead of just flexing it until it gives up.