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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 11:40 PM
  #31  
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irishguyincc
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What sort of thing would cause this short? The only problem I can see on the whole wire is the exposed end where it connects to the EEC relay plug. The rest of the wire looks pristine. The only other thing I can think of is I recently jumped the posts on the starter relay were all this hooks up. Could either of these things caused a short? If not what should I be looking for? I admit I don't have a whole lot of experience with electrical wiring.

Also, is that rubber thing on the fusible link wire just a marker? Or does it itself do something? And where can I find what I need to fix this? The black rubber thing says 20 GA. fusible link. I was only able to find 14 Ga. fuse link wire at the local O'Reilly's.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 08:44 AM
  #32  
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Odd that O'reillys doesn't have it Delphi/Packard makes it and you might contact White Products to see who in your area sells it. Don't use the bigger wire it just negates the reason for having it there. And I believe that rubber thing is just the label.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 10:46 AM
  #33  
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"What sort of thing would cause this short?"

The EEC relay connects that fuse link to a splice whch connects to the injectors/idle air control valve/EGR solenoid/WAC relay for the AC/2 wires to the ECU.

You need to check the soild red wires to these for a short to ground.

Looks like wtroger has covered the fuselink thing nicely.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 01:50 AM
  #34  
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I have a couple questions. First of all, could you explain "short to ground" a bit for me? Would this mean that a wire contacted something it shouldn't have? Because I did find some damage to the insulation on the red wire going from the EEC relay and the red wire going into the EGR solenoid.

Also, is there something better I can use as a replacement for the fuse link wire, like maybe an actual fuse setup instead?
 

Last edited by irishguyincc; Apr 30, 2006 at 01:53 AM. Reason: clarification
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 09:26 AM
  #35  
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Yes short to ground means a bare hot wire got up against the chassis which is ground. and yes you can just put a fuse in the line. A 20 gauge fusible link protects a 16 gauge wire. the fuse size would be 10 amp. But beware a fuse will blow at the slightest overload a fusible link is a slow blow option it takes a little longer to heat up and come apart.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 02:33 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for all the help so far, this is the first time I've ever had to deal with serious wiring issues of any kind. I'm learning alot. I just have one more question about the fusible link wire. Do I need to replace the entire length of the wire, or can I just cut out the part that actually stretches? In the end I'd probably replace the whole length anyhow, but I'd kinda like to test it out by patching if first perhaps. I have an inline blade fuse connector I was thinking about temporarily splicing in there just so I can see it the system will work. That is of course after I finish patching up the nicked wires I found.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 06:06 PM
  #37  
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You can patch it until you finish trouble shooting but I would replace the whole thing at some point
 
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:26 PM
  #38  
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Sounds as though you have my problems. I have 1984 ranger with the 2.8 same almost exact problems. I have replaced the dist., coil, ignition, and ignition module. Still no fire. I just ordered a computer for it. It should be here thursday Ill let you know if this was it. I know how you feel. If this dont fix it i think I will install some TNT, HE HE
 
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Old May 2, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #39  
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I just got it to fire up. I did end up having to replace all of the fusible link wire, but now it starts right up. Its got a bit of a miss to it, but I'll get that straightened out. Thanks everyone for the help, I learned a lot about wiring.
 

Last edited by irishguyincc; May 2, 2006 at 08:04 PM. Reason: clarification
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