I wanted to report some findings that I hope may be of use.

I replaced my leaking at the rear cork pan gasket with a fiber pan gasket of much harder composition that I bought from Schumanns in iowa. I have lived with weepy pan gaskets for 15 years and now have finally found the sloution. Absolutely dry around the whole pan after a 200 mile 90% highway trip I took this week. This gasket is superior because it won't squish out when you tighten the pan bolts. I used a copper washer in back of the oil pump tube nut to pan- nothing on the inside of the pan. This is dry too.

Also- I changed the thermostat from a 180 to a 195 degree unit. This is in a rebuilt 292, with an Edelbrock 500 carb and rams horns exhaust, #46 Autolite plugs, 3 on the column and a 3.73 rear axle (you can view the engine in my gallery). On a 60 degree day at sea level on the same trip I mentioned above, the temp stayed at 195 to 200 degrees. No coolant was lost and no pinging was present. I usually get about 15 mpg on this trip at 55 and 60 mph. I managed 16 plus mpg this time. Just one test I'll admit, but I belive there is an advantage to running a little hotter if the radiator is up to it. We'll see how it does on a 100 degree day this summer, but with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water and with a 7# pressure cap (stock is 4 pounds-I changed that too), I don't see a problem in running at 205 to 210 degrees as long as there is no pinging.

Anyway just for what it's worth....

 

Thanks Steve, how much are those pan gaskets? Did you use any sealer with it? Need to order one soon. Let us know how you do in the hot summertime.

 

46yblock-

I spread a thin coat of silicone on the pan surface, and then set the gasket down on the pan. Then I spread another thin coat on top of the gasket. I put a couple of temporary studs near the front of the block to help guide the pan in place, while fitting the oil tube in the pump. I tightened the bolts all the way around (after removing the guide studs) to about 80% of what I felt would be tight enough. After two hours, I tightened all bolts and the two rear nuts to where I liked them. I have done it this way in the past with the cork gasket, but invariably the thing would squish out at the rear and leak back there.

The gasket is a little strange in that it comes in four pieces and fits together like a puzzle. I can see no real advantage to this other than it fits in a smaller package. Cost was $10. Vern Schuman (563) 381-2416.

 

That sounds like the McCord brand gasket. The first pan gasket I used was like that. The stud trick is the only way to go if you just have two hands during install.

I've heard there is a neoprene type pan gasket. Anyone know where? It would be nice not to have to use sealant, because it is time consuming getting it off the next go round.