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jtharvey-
In your gallery it looks like you have a tube hooked to what I assume is the boost reference port on your A-1000 pressure regulator. Is that right, and if so what are you using it for and where does it run to?
jtharvey-
In your gallery it looks like you have a tube hooked to what I assume is the boost reference port on your A-1000 pressure regulator. Is that right, and if so what are you using it for and where does it run to?
Correct. It is a boost reference port on the regulator. However, that is not what I use it for. The hose I have on there is purely for a fuel vent. If the regulator should ever fail internally, fuel would come pouring out that port. So, the hose is just there as a safeguard to prevent fuel from spraying all over a hot engine and exhaust, thus preventing a huge fire hazard. It's run to the side of the engine compartment, keeping plenty of clearance between it and the exhaust manifold, then down the frame rail ending just under the driver's door. That way, if it ever does spit fuel, I should know it immediately when I get out of the truck. However, I do not expect the regulator to fail. It's just a safeguard.
Seems to me that another advantage to an external reg system with higher flowing ability,amongst other things, is that it's going to help u achieve that DESIRED hp rating of that chip/tuner.
As for the plugging the hole on the filter. I happened to have a broken housing from a previous regulator (factory)I tapped it and plugged it with an 1/8"npt plug. I wotked great and bolts right back on!! Hope this helps!
Lancer, the more I think about it, you've got a great system here. My utilizing the factory regulator, you dont' need to have a bleed orifice as I do, since it doesn't hold pressure once the truck is shut off. My Aeromotive regulator will hold pressure if I didn't have the orifice in there. I don't know if that was one of the reasons you moved and used the factory regulator, but it's definately a good one. Again, nice work!!
On a different note, but on the same topic of the regulated fuel. I've been thinking about the air that may possibly be trappend in the top of the fuel bowl. It was a concern for me, obviously by my choice in location for my bleed orifice. However, I'm not sure that it really is an issue. My reasoning is this: the fuel is taken out of the bowl by lines located at the very bottom of the bowl. Any air will be at the top, out of reach of the supply lines. I'm sure there will be the unavoidable air in the lines when you change your fuel filter, but once every 7K-10K miles is better than all the time. And even then, turning the key on 2-3 times for 30 seconds each time to let the pump purge out any air won't leave much air in the lines.
Seems to me that another advantage to an external reg system with higher flowing ability,amongst other things, is that it's going to help u qachieve that DESIRED hp rating of that chip/tuner.
Nut
I've been thinking about this too (I've been doing a lot of thinking lately ), that being higher fuel flow. I've decided that the highest fuel flow will come with the removal of my stock fuel bowl. It can't be easy on the fuel flow to have to travel all through the fuel bowl then out through 1/8" NPT fittings. I know the inlet on the heads is 1/8"NPT too, but why restrict it before then, if I can avoid it. So for my solution is I've found a Y-fuel distribution block at Summitt that will work perfectly. It has a 3/8" NPT input and two 6AN outlet ports. It even has a 1/8" NPT gauge port in it that will perfectly accept my bleed orifice. Link to the fuel block here: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I know there are worries about filtering fuel, but since I run the 2 micron Dalh 150 fuel/water seperator, all my filtering needs are taken care of there. Other worries with removing the stock fuel bowl are gelling of the fuel in the winter time since the heater in the fuel bowl will be gone, and I've got that covered. For one, a good quality winter additive should be used. That should prevent gelling. Second, I can add a heater to the Dahl filter. Now, you're thinking what about the fuel in the lines at the engine? Well, my answer is to just use the block heater - something that I always do in the winter. Once the engine gets a little heat in it and starts to warm the fuel flowing through the heads, that warm fuel will circulate through the tank, warming the rest of it. So, the only issue may be getting it started. Once it's running, you're good to go.
Thanks Jtharvey i aprecciate the recognition! As for using the factory reg it just popped into my head! I had been thinking of a way to make an orafice small enough for the air bleed. Than one night i was thinking "theres got to be a way to use the stock reg." Than the wheels started turning and this is what i came up with. I'm bad that way. I think to damn much. I mean its good in a way but sometimes i can't sleep because of it. Not alwys about truck mods but of lots of thing. If i ever the lottery i could spend the rest of my life making things. I guess i'm a magiver in a way but it usually works to my advantage. Thanks again and may all your modding wishes come true!!!!
lancer, I know what you mean about not being able to sleep. I've had many restless nights because the gears in my head would not stop turning. Of course, it get's especially bad when I'm working on my truck. Over the winter months, when I was doing a lot of my mods, it was at it's worst since I've been done with my college physics and calculus classes.
Nut, sorry buddy...I just can't help it. One of the best parts about the fuel block, is it's under $30!! I'll probably run new hose from the stock pump all the way up to a barb fitting on the y-block. Only bad part about that is I think I'll need to use the fuel injection rated hose, and that stuff is expensive. Eventually, when the new pump goes in, I'll have threaded fittings on the pump outlet and the fuel block. But, barbs and clamps will work fine for now. Feed the beast!!!
Correct. It is a boost reference port on the regulator. However, that is not what I use it for. The hose I have on there is purely for a fuel vent. If the regulator should ever fail internally, fuel would come pouring out that port.
So do you think your method has any advantages over just taking the boost reference barb out and putting a plug in the port?
lancer, I know what you mean about not being able to sleep. I've had many restless nights because the gears in my head would not stop turning. Of course, it get's especially bad when I'm working on my truck.
i went to bed last night at 10:50. i was up past 11:45,i couldn't sleep because i kept thinking about the future and how im going to have a badass pulling rig and all the mods on it. i spent $25000 last night in my dreams.
i went to bed last night at 10:50. i was up past 11:45,i couldn't sleep because i kept thinking about the future and how im going to have a badass pulling rig and all the mods on it. i spent $25000 last night in my dreams.
Kris,
Oh Ohhh! Severe PMS! Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. Dr. Nut
So do you think your method has any advantages over just taking the boost reference barb out and putting a plug in the port?
No, not necessarily. The only advantage is, if the regulator fails or starts to leak, I'll know it. I may even catch a failing regulator before it completely gives out and possibly leaving me stranded. But, I tend to do things a little overkill, and do more than is necessary.
No, not necessarily. The only advantage is, if the regulator fails or starts to leak, I'll know it. I may even catch a failing regulator before it completely gives out and possibly leaving me stranded. But, I tend to do things a little overkill, and do more than is necessary.
Wouldn't your fuel pressure gauge tell you something was amiss as soon as it started? Yeah, I been snooping in your gallery.