one step forward two steps back
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Longwood, fl
one step forward two steps back
Got my front axle back from the machine shop with new king pins painted and installed, looks nice. Installed new reverse eye mains and removed every other leaf to get the described drop from the mid fifties catalog, sweet. Installed new bearings and races in the front hubs and painted all nice shiny black, beautiful. Got her done after working all weekend and lowered her down on the ground looking good! Layed down on the ground in front to see how much arch are in the springs and see the 351C engine mount cross member sitting on the front axle, priceless. Is cussing allowed on this website? Or should I look at this as a new fabrication opportunity?
Seriously, does the engine mount cross member have to stay since both sides are welded in place? If so I was thinking I could remove the cross member basically a piece of 1-1/4" pipe and cut the bottom half off and replace that with a piece of flat stock to minimze the profile and give me clearance to the front axle. Anyone else been there and done this?
Seriously, does the engine mount cross member have to stay since both sides are welded in place? If so I was thinking I could remove the cross member basically a piece of 1-1/4" pipe and cut the bottom half off and replace that with a piece of flat stock to minimze the profile and give me clearance to the front axle. Anyone else been there and done this?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Is this a tubular type crossmember with the mounts welded to it? If so, I wouldn't just cut away the center, that would put too much load on the frame rails. You will need to beef up the rails and mount to spread the weight and forces, or replace the mount with ones designed to be used individually. Another possible solution would be to rework the existing crossmember so that the lower portion is behind the axle by fabbing a jog in it on each side. Just be sure it is strong enough to carry the weight.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
It needs to be strong enough to not bend or twist. The crossmember is carrying the weight and transfering it to the rails as a vertical force which doesn't put much strain on the rails. If it can twist or bend it would transmit those forces to the rails, forces the frame was not designed to resist.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Longwood, fl
Looked in the mid fifties web and the only mount offered for a 351c is the one I am using. Will have to look close at how I can realign the engine mount cross member to parallel behind the axle. I am at a loss at the moment. Randy Jack is running a 351c but he may have an IFS...will look at his gallery.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
How far back does it need to go? Can't be very far. You could cut the tube below the mounts, add a piece of 1/4" plate to move the center section back the needed amount and add some gussets to prevent twisting. Not unlike what is often done with tranny crossmembers to relocate the mount. If there is enough clearance you could possibly just rotate the center section rearwards to clear the axle and weld it back together.
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From: Longwood, fl
Ax,
Both are workable solutions. The second wins the prize. Cut the cross member below the engine mount and rotate toward the rear. Sounds easy enough. May have to add an inch or so to each side to get clearance. Thank goodness for mig welders. Thanks Ax for your input.
Both are workable solutions. The second wins the prize. Cut the cross member below the engine mount and rotate toward the rear. Sounds easy enough. May have to add an inch or so to each side to get clearance. Thank goodness for mig welders. Thanks Ax for your input.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Longwood, fl
Well after spending the last hour laying on the floor looks like the best approach it to take out the engine mount weld on a retainer bracket so I can keep the exact same upper mount location and cut the cross member so I can reduce the depth. Right now I have two inches clearance from the top of the cross member to the bottom of the oil pan. How much can I reduce that? I can remove enough of the sides of the cross member and raise it closer to the oil pan and keep the same profile. The goal is to make it work but not look like a chicken with socks on when I am done. Doing it this way it would look the same as it does now only it would sit closer to the oil pan and give me the clearance I need. I would like to raise the bottom cross member to within a half inch of the oil pan. I can always dimple the top of the cross member to get a little more clearance if needed. Sorry to be so long winded but just looking for feedback.
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