Installing engine
#2
Installing engine
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-May-02 AT 11:25 AM (EST)]What is the best way to install a enigine onto the transmisson to get it past the pilot bearing. My friend is the actual owner of the vehicle. We are just having real trouble dropping the enigine back in. The enigine is a 223 straight six, with a T-89 four speed. Can anyone help with this?
#3
Installing engine
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-May-02 AT 03:21 PM (EST)]its not easy. i've only had cause to do it 3 times and each time it took some serious sweating.
what i usually do is jackup the transmission so its angled upward slightly, angle down the engine slightly, move extremely slowly and have one person on the transmission (underneath vehicle) & one on the engine in the compartment and preferrably a third operating the engine hoist. have the engine guy direct everybody's movement. just go real slow and try and line up the topmost bolt holes, have em ready to get started. main thing i watch is that the bolt holes are lined up so the two pieces are lined up and that the distance between the top of the transmission/block mating surfaces remain the same distance as the bottom so i know its not going in angled. rock the engine slightly when you know you're close.
all much easier said than done though
good luck
i've always done it with a single pivot point on the hoist hook and used some steel cabling and use muscle to maneuver the engine. they do sell a special hoist connection which allows tipping the engine a lot easier though if you've got the dough.
what i usually do is jackup the transmission so its angled upward slightly, angle down the engine slightly, move extremely slowly and have one person on the transmission (underneath vehicle) & one on the engine in the compartment and preferrably a third operating the engine hoist. have the engine guy direct everybody's movement. just go real slow and try and line up the topmost bolt holes, have em ready to get started. main thing i watch is that the bolt holes are lined up so the two pieces are lined up and that the distance between the top of the transmission/block mating surfaces remain the same distance as the bottom so i know its not going in angled. rock the engine slightly when you know you're close.
all much easier said than done though
good luck
i've always done it with a single pivot point on the hoist hook and used some steel cabling and use muscle to maneuver the engine. they do sell a special hoist connection which allows tipping the engine a lot easier though if you've got the dough.
#4
Installing engine
I assume you have the clutch lined up with a pilot tool?
I also make alignment pins out of long bolts with the heads cut off and taper the ends. Don't forget to cut a screwdriver slot in them so they can be turned out. Don't make them too long to remove.
NEVER use bolts and wrenches to draw the engine and transmission together! If the don't just slide together figure out what is wrong.
Be SAFE when crawling under a car. See the thread on jack stands. Use safety chains on all components. Double up on the jack stands and timbers etc.
Keep fingers clear of the moving parts. They won't stop for your little pinkies.
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTE Moderator]
over!
I also make alignment pins out of long bolts with the heads cut off and taper the ends. Don't forget to cut a screwdriver slot in them so they can be turned out. Don't make them too long to remove.
NEVER use bolts and wrenches to draw the engine and transmission together! If the don't just slide together figure out what is wrong.
Be SAFE when crawling under a car. See the thread on jack stands. Use safety chains on all components. Double up on the jack stands and timbers etc.
Keep fingers clear of the moving parts. They won't stop for your little pinkies.
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html|FTE Moderator]
over!
#5
Installing engine
>What is the best way to install a enigine onto the
>transmisson to get it past the pilot bearing. My friend is
>the actual owner of the vehicle. We are just having real
>trouble dropping the enigine back in. The enigine is a 223
>straight six, with a T-89 four speed. Can anyone help with
>this?
My experence in this area is mostly the 1.6 to 2.4l range, but even on something lighter, it's a pain in the butt. Even the ones you can support on your pelvis.
There are some cars where it's easier to mount the tranny and install it to the engine, then place into the car. I'm not sure if this is an acceptable solution for something in the 5l + range.
Alternativly speaking, undocking the transmision to permit engine instalation, then applying the the transmition on an approved transmsision jack.
The major probems i've experenced have been when the car hasn't quite level. Not a major tilt mind you, the usual inconsistency you find in your typical garage floor or driveway. and the most time consuming process for me anyway is matching the vehicel tilt with that of the tranny jack.
I'd really lean tward a removed transmision and applied to the engine if possible, as the engine is removed, this shouldn't be much of a bother at all. This requires less in the way of hardware, and is so much easier to torq the bolts exactly. otherwise a tranny jack with a nice 4 way tilt to match is very helpful achiving the alignment required for mounting without damaging the piolt berring.
>transmisson to get it past the pilot bearing. My friend is
>the actual owner of the vehicle. We are just having real
>trouble dropping the enigine back in. The enigine is a 223
>straight six, with a T-89 four speed. Can anyone help with
>this?
My experence in this area is mostly the 1.6 to 2.4l range, but even on something lighter, it's a pain in the butt. Even the ones you can support on your pelvis.
There are some cars where it's easier to mount the tranny and install it to the engine, then place into the car. I'm not sure if this is an acceptable solution for something in the 5l + range.
Alternativly speaking, undocking the transmision to permit engine instalation, then applying the the transmition on an approved transmsision jack.
The major probems i've experenced have been when the car hasn't quite level. Not a major tilt mind you, the usual inconsistency you find in your typical garage floor or driveway. and the most time consuming process for me anyway is matching the vehicel tilt with that of the tranny jack.
I'd really lean tward a removed transmision and applied to the engine if possible, as the engine is removed, this shouldn't be much of a bother at all. This requires less in the way of hardware, and is so much easier to torq the bolts exactly. otherwise a tranny jack with a nice 4 way tilt to match is very helpful achiving the alignment required for mounting without damaging the piolt berring.
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#8
Installing engine
>If you've pulled the radiator, many times I have found it
>easier to take the tranny out with the motor. The reverse is
>also true.
>
>i always get the radiator out of the vehicle first, since it
>is so vulnerable to damage from even a slight rub.
Agreed! I know that even to just remove the tranny, I still must apply presure to the main pully bolt in order to torque the flywheel and clutch bolts, and this has actually has caused damage to my radiator in one case. The closed ended wrench was weged on something or another, came free, and scrapped in a 1/4 circle .
>easier to take the tranny out with the motor. The reverse is
>also true.
>
>i always get the radiator out of the vehicle first, since it
>is so vulnerable to damage from even a slight rub.
Agreed! I know that even to just remove the tranny, I still must apply presure to the main pully bolt in order to torque the flywheel and clutch bolts, and this has actually has caused damage to my radiator in one case. The closed ended wrench was weged on something or another, came free, and scrapped in a 1/4 circle .
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