When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I took my 67 F100 360 elk hunting this year. Had to go over 2 high & long passes pulling a rented camper. By the time I hit the top of the passes I was down to 20mph (thought I might hafta shift into compound, but didn't). Anyway, now the thing backfires slightly just going down the road. Is this maybe a timing problem, or what? I seem to remember something like that from 'way in the past, but I think I'm getting Old Timers' Disease anymore. Anybody with a good brain can help me out there?
I just worked on this with a 360 and had to try a number of things including the timing and the dwell. Just reading instructions last night on dwell tach stated " if dwell is too low, points are set too far apart. This will cause poor performance at higher engine speeds and missing during acceleration and when climbing grades."
I also replaced distributor capwith one with copper contacts.
Several answers in my thread told me that lean would backfire through carb and rich through exhaust.
I had to replace a missing exhaust doughnut and I also adjusted my idle to help stop it form popping rumbling on deceleration.
Is yours backfiring on acceleration or what??
Sorry I will be off line for several days but search the threads over the last 1 1/2 weeks.
Richard, I don't think it's points 'cuz I had an IGNITOR thingie put in a couple of years ago (got tired of replacing points every 4-6 months). My distributor cap already has copper contacts. I checked the donuts & can't find any leaks there. I THINK it must be backfiring on acceleration because it seems to do it when I'm maintaining a constant speed I haven't noticed it during deceleration, but it sure did in the past; I could see it light up the roadside at night.
Terrylbu, Thanx for the loose wire idea, but no-go there.
Barry, I'm in denial about the valve thought. Since I don't own a compression tester & Checker wants $35 for one, that'll hafta wait till later.
Come to think about it, I don't seem to have as much power as before...can only get it up to 75 or so now & it would 90 no sweat last summer.
Sounds to me like you really need to check your compression. If it started after loading it down during that uphill climb, I would also have to suspect a burnt valve.
Another way to check is to pull the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand until both valves are closed on any particular cylinder and use an air compressor to pressurize that cylinder. If you have a burnt valve, you will hear it blow air out the exhaust- exhaust valves are the most likely to burn first. Or if it is an intake valve, it will blow through the carb.
If you do find a burnt valve, check your timing chain for looseness- a valve will usually burn when the chain stretches too far.
Thanx, Joe. That's a more easy way for me to check it out for the time being.
If you saw my truck, you wouldn't be too sure about it being an 'absolute' though. It's a rattly, rusty old farm truck. One thing good about it here in Denver is that everyone gives me a lot of room on the road whenever I drive to work in it. They're probably afraid something will fall off and tear their nice kiddy cars apart.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Nov-02 AT 11:22 PM (EST)]MAN CAN I RELATE!!!!
I live in Ft Worth and drive to Dallas to go to work. The lanes can get pretty narrow at times when in construction but I can't tell it. In my '71, nobody wants to pass me, much less ride along side of me, especially when those concrete barriers come up on each side.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.