I believe a lot of the pump problems are trash related.
My truck was getting 16-18 mpg when i bought it.
Ran good for what i thought a diesel should run until
i got a bad tank of fuel. The truck would die like bad CPS.
When i finally got a good CPS the truck still died.
Someone recommended that i blow thru the fuel pump input with compressed air,
and blow back into the tank form the pump input hose.
IT WORKED for a few days and the truck ran better than ever , then problem returned.
When i dropped the tank to do the in-tank mod i found the mixing
chamber filter was plugged with a fungus like goop.
I'm sure all that didn't come from one bad tank.
IF i had replaced the pump it may have been strong enough to overcome the
plug filters but it would have been running in a strain until it's entire short life.
With the intank and pre-pump in place the truck runs much better than i ever thought
a diesel could. Added the HPX and now the truck gets 18-20 very smooth no cackel.

Short answer. BLOW COMPRESSED AIR THRU YOUR PUMP input AND INTO THE TANK BEFORE YOU BUY A PUMP. be sure to open the water drain first.

 

Would adding diesel cleaner stuff everyone always say don't do a darn thing help prevent the build up in the tank?

Good posting! I'll have to try that...

 

Yeah thanks for the tip, i will try that out!

 

It would be worth a try, but the in-tank pre-pump also eliminates
the filter from future problems and eliminates air in the fuel system which
helps the pump and injestors last longer and run quieter.
you will have to put a pre-pump filter on the frame rail but it can be as simple
as a $3 inline filter to catch the big junk.
If you drove my truck now compared to before the mods you would think i have
a rebuild with new injectors or a maybe 6.0 engine. TOTALLY different truck.

 

Anyone in NY wanna help me do an intank, prepump, and clean job on the factor pump? Could have some steaks, and a couple beers for ur help?

 

You might check out the NY Chapter forum, If you havn't already.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=87

 

For the most part mine is stock. I have done the in tank mods, but did not get the hose replace immediately in front of the pump. Was lacking on time. Just the intank alone made a huge difference in sound. I have installed SS HPX line, but didn't notice much quieter idle, but it does sound like it is much smoother. Which reminds me I need to check for leaks. When I finish the prepump mods, I am going to take the pump completely off the rail and make sure it is not clogged or impeaded in any manner. My tank was all but virtually spotless when I dropped it, so that was a great relief.

I do think a complete regulated return setup would be pretty cool, I even have a tube bender to put to use, just need to sit down and draw it out to figure out how much SS tubing I would need. I was thinking 1/4 SS tube should be sufficient as I don't have any plans on going all out.

 

would you blow backwards through the pump (toward the tank) or forwards through the pump toward the motor

it would make sense that the trash came from the tank it shoul d go backwards through the pump but i don't know a bout check valves and stuff in the pump.

Higgins

 

The pump has a check valve and a screen, so you need to blow through it in the direction that the fuel flows. I usually just disconnect the pump and blow through it instead if the whole system.

 

is there a way to take the screen out for cleaning then reinstall?

 

No way to do it other than blowing air through the pump, the pump is a sealed unit.

 

OK. I have read the entire post on "FOUND..." and "Fuel Pump Installed..." and now am more confused than ever. I have the exact same problem. Used to get 18mpg on highway trips and 15.5 to 16 in mixed. Now, I get 14.5 on highway and 12 mixed. I have been driving it like a baby since the price of diesel is at $3.00 again. I have changed every filter, checked tire pressure regularly and have made several posts here in the past over "lost" fuel economy. So, this sounds like the closest thing I have read to my situation, yet. And at $3.00 a gallon, the difference between 14.5 and 18 mpg totals $200 after only 5,000 miles. I'll be driving those miles anyway, so I should try to get the best milage that I can.

My questions:
1) The pressure guage that was mentioned sounded like a diagnostic guage in one post, then sounded like a dash mount (permanent) guage in another. Which are you talking about?
2) I could not tell if the Rabbit pump adapter was resolved. Did I miss the post on how to make this pump fit the lines?
3) If Kwikk or Hott-rodd have nothing to do, could you summarize the "must-do" mods and not include all the others (relocating the pump, new tanks, etc.)? That is where I found the most confusion.

You guys are great! If it weren't for this forum, I would have dumped this truck along time ago. You guys make it enjoyable to own a PSD. Thanks.

 

Hi, again. I went to Pep Boys for a fuel pressure tester (good place for cheap tools if you don't need to use them often). It stated in bold, capital letters "DO NOT USE ON DIESEL ENGINES". So I called NAPA and they had one that could be used on diesels - for $600.

So- What pressure tester are you guys using? Where do you get it? How much does it cost?

Thanks.

 

The $600 one is undoutedly for injector pump engines (high pressure). The gas ones should be just fine for our fuel systems.

 

What kinda job is it to replace the fuel pump...My overall MPG has dropped alot but its running fine....Ive lost about 3 MPG overall...