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Do I really need to rebuild engine?. Need your advise.
What's up guys. Here is my situation. I got my f250 1978 camper special in which I thought was a good deal. According to the previous owner the engine had been rebuilt as well as the heads, calipers, trany and many other new parts. I bought the truck not running since the owner told me the engine required some work. When I took the truck to my mechanic they found out that the heads were "stuck" the lifters (some) could be pushed down but they would not bounce back up. Then these were taken to a machine shop where I was told they would need to rebuild the heads and "most likely" the engine as well. The explanation I was given is that since the truck sat for several years then the gasoline got old and sticky. I am told that "most likely" I need to replace pistons, rebuild heads, clean gas tank and clean gas lines. All of this kept adding up ($$$$$$). I told them that I did not have the money to procceed with the repair so the truck now sits as it was before. I was been charged about $1800 to do all of the above. I had never heard that old gasoline would make the engine stick, oh well and no expert. I wanted to know if it is essenttial to rebuild the engine as the mechanic said or do I have any other options?. Please help. I really wanted to get this truck running but $1800 is definetly out of my range right now.
I don't know what the wrecking yards are like near you but I would see if I could find a decent 2nd hand engine and install that to get the truck running and then rebuild the original motor out of the truck when the funds allow.
I'll sell you a running 400 for $50 well I'm probly a long ways from you so I'm just kidding but if you make a few ford friends I bet you can get parts cheap!! No way you should be spending that much. Buy a used engine with some life for a few bucks and throw it in.
Sounds like some one is trying to rip you off. At the most you might need to rebuild the heads. For the gas tank, drain out the old stuff and put fresh fuel in it. Add a clear fuel filter to the fuel line and plan on replacing it a few times.
I know a guy up in Kingsburg that sells running engines for $300.00 + -. I just bought a '75 1-ton Super Camper Special from him (no motor or tranny) for $300.00 and he still has the 460 and C6. The motor runs pretty well from what I've been told (85,000 miles + -) and he'll sell them as a set.
Your profile shows that you live in California but it doesn't say where. Drop me a line and let me know if I can help. I'm in Visalia.
If the engine hasn't been taken completely apart,Get some Marvel's Mystery Lube in the crankcase and turn that engine which will clean out that upper cylinder without tearing anything more apart.
This could have been asked in the General Automotive forum as it could apply to any engine.
$1800 is to much, like ford390 says you can get a new longblock for aroun $1200. I have my doubts the pistons would need to be replace. worst case scenario, the rings might be rusted to the cylinder walls. I would put some diesel fuel in the spark plugs holes. often times they will break loose after the diesel seaps past. the heads may need to be rebuilt, but they would really have to be rusty in order for taht to even happen if it has been previously gone through. Did the guy you bought the truck from show you any reciepts for the engine work?
I know a guy up in Kingsburg that sells running engines for $300.00 + -. I just bought a '75 1-ton Super Camper Special from him (no motor or tranny) for $300.00 and he still has the 460 and C6. The motor runs pretty well from what I've been told (85,000 miles + -) and he'll sell them as a set.
Your profile shows that you live in California but it doesn't say where. Drop me a line and let me know if I can help. I'm in Visalia.
$1800 is to much, like ford390 says you can get a new longblock for aroun $1200. I have my doubts the pistons would need to be replace. worst case scenario, the rings might be rusted to the cylinder walls. I would put some diesel fuel in the spark plugs holes. often times they will break loose after the diesel seaps past. the heads may need to be rebuilt, but they would really have to be rusty in order for taht to even happen if it has been previously gone through. Did the guy you bought the truck from show you any reciepts for the engine work?
The heads don't look rusty at all. It seems like they had been rebuild not too long ago. The whole engine looks very clean. According to the previous owner the engine and heads were rebuild a while back but the engine was never started.
I had considered getting a used engine, but the shop kind of talked me into not spending money on a used engine since they said I did not know what I was getting and how long that used engine would last me. But now I think I would really consider this option and save my current engine to rebuilt or fix as funds allow.
Valves could be a little stuck... But what Million said is a good idea with the Marvel Mystery Oil. It is also used as 'after run oil' in nitro r/c cars, because of its ability to displace moisture and dissolve (and prevent) rust.
What engine is it? I would pull the valve covers and rockers, and pull pushrods to check for bent ones. Oh, but it sounds like the heads are now off, right? A head reconditioning is minimum... Replacing lifters will not break the bank, either. You might be able to soak them in Marvel for a night to loosen them up to where they might hold pressure again.
Be methodical, and don't give up. Sometimes fresh engines lock up worse than older ones, due to the tighter tolerances; Doesn't necessarily mean you got ripped off.
The first way is by hand with a breaker bar and a socket for the cranshaft.
The 2nd is to disconnect the connections to the distributor or center wire of coil.
Then in spurts...use the starter (with either the key or a remote switch under the hood like if you were doiung a compression test) ....without burning IT up.
This 2nd way will allow the oiling system to lubricate everything that needs it before putting fire to the holes with spark
Also, Doing this with the valve covers off will allow you to see if the lifters are working or not.
I've got a 77 or 78 Ford running that sat for about 8 years. Nothing special was done to take care of that motor. Granted, it died driving it home, the carb seals went pop, but unless someone just put something together on the rebuild wrong, I don't see what the problem with the engine could be.
I have seen several engines brought back to life from poor storage to live a decent life. The only real concern I would have is if the rings rusted to the cylinder wall. If they rusted hard, they migt crack or twist when broken loose, but if there is just a rust line in the bore, that's fine, they will clean up as the engine runs. Lifters for most engines are right around $2 each, pushrods are about the same price. I would pull the valves out, clean them with a harsh solvent (acetone works), then put them back in with new seals and enjoy the truck.