I just purchased a 1977 Ford F150 and while doing some needed engine maintenance I discovered I have excessive crankshaft endplay (~0.25"). Is it possible to install new main bearings with the engine in the truck? Also if so should I also install new rod bearings at the same time? Thanks.

Jim

 

If you're going to do main bearings, it just makes sense to do the rods while you're in there. That said, it should, in theory, be possible to change the mains with the engine in the truck. I've never done it but I believe there are some here who have.

You would have to remove all main caps and let the crank hang (so to speak) by the timing chain, rods and attachment to the transmission at the rear. These things shouldn't allow much movement but it should be enough for it to be possible to carefully slide the upper bearing out from around the crank. Remember, you have a locating tang on one side of the bearing and this will only allow the bearing to come out (and go back in) one way, as the side with the tang has to come out first. You will need something to push on the other side of the bearing to start it out, such as a small screwdriver but I would be very careful with this since it would be very easy to scratch the crank. Perhaps if you were to wrap the end of the screwdriver with some electrical tape for protection, that might do it. By the same token, you'll need to put the new bearing back in the same way. I would coat the bearing surface with assembly lube and insert the end without the tang in between the crank and the block, then rotate it into place using the screwdriver to push it the last 1/4 inch so that the tang seats in its notch.

The center bearing half with the thrust will be the toughest to do as it's a pretty tight fit.

This would be good time to change the rear main seal as well. Since it's a '77, you still have the two-piece seal so it's changed from the bottom with the rear main cap off. If its a rubber seal, you should be able to simply push it up and around the crank as you do with the main bearings, but if it's a rope seal you may have to drive a screw into one end and try to pull it out while pushing on the other end. Use a rubber seal to replace it. With a rope seal, there is often a little spike inside the main cap that's used to hold the seal in place, you'll need to remove this. (It usually comes out easily.)

So, that's how I would go about it, being prepared to change the plan a bit for any contingencies that may come up.

 

I think I will try this and see how it goes this weekend. I will let you know how I make out with this project. Thanks.

Jim

 

Take pictures!! Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

Well I got under the truck today and removed all the main bearings, but they really were not all that bad. What I did discover was that the trust bearing flange had worn an 1/8" groove into the transmission side of the crank shaft, so just changing the main bearings is not going to fix the end play problem. Anyone have any idea why the crank wore in this way? I will be picking up up remanufacured crank with both the rod and main bearings for $160 tomorrow. I purchased this truck from a friend of mine for $250 and it is still at his house. He asked me to go ahead and work on it in his driveway, so he could learn a few things. Problem is I was not expecting to get this involved in this trucks maintenance in his driveway. I thought valve cover gaskets, water pump, hoses, thermostat, plugs, and wires and then I drive it home. I am thinking about trying to install the crank in the engine while the engine is still in the truck. Has anyone done this before? Am I nuts to attempt this?

Jim

 

I take it this truck is manual transmission? Perhaps it had a heavy-duty clutch, and a previous owner rode the clutch a lot. That would tend to put a lot of thrust pressure on the crank.

But I think you're gonna have to pull the engine to change the crank. The timing cover has to come off, and in turn the timing chain and sprockets (good opportunity to change them out as well) and the transmission, clutch and flywheel has to go. Not to mention that to change the crank with the pistons still in place is a bit of a challenge.

I'm not saying it can't be done in the truck, just that it might wind up being more of a PITA than it's worth.

 

The truck has an automatic transmission. Right now everything is off the front of the engine and all the main bearings are out, engine mounts are unbolted and the engine is jacked up ~ 1". The reason I am hesitant about pulling the engine is the truck is in my friends driveway, I should just bring it home and have at it. It is really a PITA carting the tools over to his house to work on it and I alway seem to forget some tool I need. Thanks for the input.

Jim

 

Well the truck is home and I am just about ready to pull the engine out. When I get the engine out I am going to totally rebuild it, since I know I will probably regret it if I just install the new crank and timing set on an engine with over 113,000 miles on it. I am going to have the block hot tanked, bored 0.030" over, install all new cam, main, and rod bearings, and new freeze plugs. I purchased off ebay; a new stock Cleavite cam shaft ($5), New 0.030" oversized pistons ($50), New lifters ($35), New pushrods-rocker studs-guide plates ($40), Used Weiand 4bbl Inkake ($70), rebuilt/used Holley 4bbl 600cfm carb ($103), and a set of used 1990 302 heads ($96).

Here are some pics of my newly acquired project, she aint pretty but I only paid $250 for the truck:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...52948230VMkPGF

Jim

 

Sounds like a plan, but why not upgrade the cam while you're in there rather than use that stock replacement? You've only got 5 bucks invested in it so you wouldn't be out a lot if you didn't use it and got yourself a truck/RV cam, something with a little better breathing in the bottom end.

Which Weiand intake did you get? Is it a dual plane manifold?

 

TigerDan, The Weiand intake is a 8011 Low Rise Dual Plane design which has a power band in the idle - 6000 rpm range. What cam would you recommend that has a good idle, but improve the low end response and torque. Thanks.

Jim

 

That should be a decent manifold. For a cam, I was thinking something like this one.

 

Well I pulled the engine tonight and it came out pretty easy after I reallized I still had one bell housing bolt attached :-). Then I stripped down the engine except for the cam and lifters. The lifters are being real stubborn and won't come out of their bores all the way. I turned the engine upside down on the engine stand and tapped the lifters flush with the casting w/ a brass drift punch. I then tried to remove the cam and it is also being difficult. Before I tried to remove the cam it spun easily, but as I begin to move it out of the engine it binds right up and is very hard to turn (yes I removed the cam thrust plate 1st). I have never had a cam do this before, but this is the first time I have done a Ford engine. Anyone had this problem before? I am really not to worried about it too much, since I can just bring it to the machine shop and let them remove them. I will not be reusing the cam and lifters anyway. Thanks.

Jim

 

Yes, I've had this happen many times. I assume the lifters are all far enough away from the cam to not be causing an interference problem...?

Put the cam gear back on but use a long bolt with a nut on the the threads to hold it. This will give you a handle to hang onto for leverage, and you can use the cam gear to turn the cam back and forth to work it out. New cam bearings may well be in order, especially if your machine shop uses a hot tank for cleaning rather than just a detergent washer, as the caustic chemicals in a hot tank will eat the cam bearings.

Once the cam is out you should be able to drive the lifters out from the bottom. If not, give them a soak with spray-on carb cleaner, twist and pull at the same time and they should come out fairly easily. In both cases it's baked-in varnish that's causing them to stick.

 

Thanks TigerDan! That was just the ticket. The cam and lifters are all out and while I was at it I also removed the soft plugs. After taking out the soft plugs I noticed a lot of mineral deposits inside the engine, is there a good way to remove them before I have the machine work done? I was thinking of spraying/pouring in some CLR and then power washing out the water channels. Anyone done this before? Thanks.

Jim

 

have the machine shop clean it
they should have a tank to dip it in
its the only way to get it all out