WooHoo
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 796
Likes: 0
From: North Idaho
Originally Posted by RushN350
Not to sound retarded but is the add-a-leaf just that....one leaf? I installed the Tuff Country leveling kit, it was a five spring pack (2.5"). It's no cadillac but rides nice in my opinion. It leveled out nice too.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
i have the Rough Country leveling kit. it made a DAY AND NIGHT difference on looks, as well as ride. it came with a complete new spring pack, with 5 progressive leaves, opposed to the stock pack which had two thick leaves. an add-a-leaf will only make a stiff ride harsher. this new leaf pack had 5 leaves that were thinner and made a much smoother ride. with the shocks included (cant tell which, shocks or leaves) the ride is alot more firm and responsive, but not hard. the kit is more expensive, about $320 shipped, but youre not half-assing it, youre doing it right. i have before and after pics of the install. it's a bear to do, so have someone to help you. i did it all myself however. the problem i ran into was that the front was lifted to the point where the radius of the panhard rod was pulling the axle to the passenger side, and i had to strap and pull on the spring to get it in the alignment hole. once tightened up, all was well. the install is pretty involved.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Thanks alot for all the input. I just got home from a long day of work and can't think properly yet. So I decide on the lvl kit later but what is the ccv mod. I'll do a search right after I post this. And blocks are legal here but I just can't get myself to put those on. Just doesn't sound right for such a big truck.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Ok call me lazy but I figured out what the CCV (crank case vent) mod is. It makes sense, except for how does the turbo get oil with out it. I don't know much about turbos but i know all superchargers I installed in my old mustangs had a oil line tapped into them. So they could get lubrication and not burn up. does the turbo still have some form of oil delivery without the CCV or what am I missing Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
I have a DR 3" leveling kit. It actually has a better ride than factory, which a lot of that can be attributed to the Bilstein 5100's. Not too bad to install, but I highly suggest an adjustable pan-rod bar. I did mine after the fact, but you'll need to take the bar loose in the process of lifting it, so you might as well go ahead and buy one. I got a Fabtech, which was about $100 cheaper. Got everything from performancelifts.com. At the time they were the cheapest and had free shipping on DR kits.
The turbo gets it's oil from the pedestal. What's coming in from the crankcase has nothing to do with lubrication. CCV is a good mod, other than being a little smelly when you're hooking up a trailer. Keeps the compartment cleaner.
The turbo gets it's oil from the pedestal. What's coming in from the crankcase has nothing to do with lubrication. CCV is a good mod, other than being a little smelly when you're hooking up a trailer. Keeps the compartment cleaner.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
the turbo is internally fed through the turbo pedestal, and through ports in the block. it needs no accessory lubrication. the reason the oil is vented in pre-turbo is because they CCV needs a low pressure area to dump it's vapor. the only place that was under a vacuum was in the pre-turbo intake. imagine trying to vent the gasses in the post-turbo compressor side, it would be hard for the pistons to move, because both the combustion chamber AND the crankcase would be under boost. not for long, pop goes rear main. it's only rerouted there for particulate emissions.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
its coming with the lift 
i was also looking at the DR 4.5" shackle drop lift. it's the best way for me to go, i have basically new front springs. money is tiiiiiggghhtt now.
i was also looking at the DR 4.5" shackle drop lift. it's the best way for me to go, i have basically new front springs. money is tiiiiiggghhtt now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 14,582
Likes: 12
From: 21791
my front still sits 1'' or so lower than the rear. so if i go 4.5" in the front, ill go 4" in the rear and have a total of a 6 inch lift in the front and 4 in the rear. ill leave those nice RC springs in there. that is when these tires wear out though. they are still 90%.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TEXAS
Beeglej.....
I tried the Rough Country leveling kit with front Spring packs with Add-a-leaf on the rear......the ride felt like a paint shaker. That set up lasted 'bout 4 months. Then I found a 4" Leveling kit from Full Force Inc. with Front extended shackles (actual lift is 5") and blocks for the rear. Instructions said to replace rear OEM blocks with the kit blocks, but to get it level I had to keep the OEM blocks on. Now it rides like factory on 315/75's
.
Don't forget to ask for the custom crash bar if you go this route!
You'll also need longer shocks, dropped pitman arm and an adjustable trackbar to do it right!
P.s., this thread might get moved since it's not 7.3 specific, so if you need more info........PM me
I tried the Rough Country leveling kit with front Spring packs with Add-a-leaf on the rear......the ride felt like a paint shaker. That set up lasted 'bout 4 months. Then I found a 4" Leveling kit from Full Force Inc. with Front extended shackles (actual lift is 5") and blocks for the rear. Instructions said to replace rear OEM blocks with the kit blocks, but to get it level I had to keep the OEM blocks on. Now it rides like factory on 315/75's
.Don't forget to ask for the custom crash bar if you go this route!
You'll also need longer shocks, dropped pitman arm and an adjustable trackbar to do it right!
P.s., this thread might get moved since it's not 7.3 specific, so if you need more info........PM me
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
I didn't think a bunch of guys who know and love their trucks so much would do something to harm them. This all makes sense now. I took the day off to put all this stuff on. So I'll check back a little later. Also will a air compressor hose work for the CCV mod. (I have a few laying around) Would it be better to replace that plastic piece in the intake or find some 4 in intake plumbing.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
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Some people use a piece of 4" exhaust to replace the plastic piece. I bought mine as a kit and it had a powdercoated piece that had the bracket welded on it. You don't really need the bracket, so you could go by a muffler shop and get a piece of 4" exhaust.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
Likes: 1
From: Columbia, MO
Compressor hose probably won't work. Too small. You need 3/4" ID hose to route the CCV to the back of the truck. Get rid of the plastic piece in the intake, and like stated use a short piece of 4" metal exhaust tubing. Just do not use PVC in there.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
jt, on the CCV mod, I noticed the guzzle website (http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/ccv1.html) he made a bracket that the replacement piece attaches to the stock location mounting bracket, is this required to keep that thing from moving? Also, did you do anything to the piece of exhaust to keep the clamps from sliding off? I think he said he sandblasted it.