I'm trying to get a quicker advance out of my 360 dizzy. I'm using the lightest springs made available in the Crane Cams kit, but they are still too strong.

What are you fellas using in your dizzies? I'm shooting for a 7* jump from 800RPM to 1000Rpm. Anything less and I get a stumble at 1000RPM with a base timing of 12*. I can advance my timing to 18* but I can still feel a little stumble. I figure I need lighter springs or heavier weights.

I know some of you fellas will want to say I need more fuel shot or it's something related to my accelerator pump or the size of the carb shooter. So in order to try to stay close to answering this particular question, my fuel system IS NOT the problem so please don't waste your time.

Thank you in advance (no pun intended!)-

Joe

 

Check the rotor shaft for any binding. I have been doing some testing on a distributor machine. Tried the two stock light springs and have too much advance. Be sure everything is well lubed.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Dec-02 AT 11:14 AM (EST)]Thanks Mike-

I was assuming all was ok with my weights because just to look at them in the dizzy, they looked clean and they and the shaft (governor) moved freely. But I went ahead and pulled the distributor out this morning and took it apart. The weights had some "pits" worn in them where they came in contact with the governor. So I took my trusty dremel out and polished them smooth again. I also polished the governor.

The grease used to lubricate these parts seems to have gotten hard enough to create enough restrictions so that the weights would not advance as they should in the beginning of the RPM band. At least that's what I come up with just by putting 2 & 2 together.

What type of lube should I use to lubricate all the parts? Would Marvel Mystery Oil be too light? I like its ability to keep all parts polished when used. Also, the top of the shaft did not have a wick. What could I use for a replacement? Could I use a piece of "plastic" foam or would something a little denser like a polishing pad from a dremel kit be the trick?

Thanks again-

Joe

 

Probably any oil would be fine. I would use a piece of felt for the oil wick. When I first started testing a couple of distributors I was only getting 4 degrees of advance. I started changing springs and got more advance but still not enough. Then my test results changed somehow and I was getting too much. The weights moved free but I probably should pull them out and check them.

I saw a picture of some MSD springs and they appear to be the same as Ford springs. Also, the stop for the advance can be installed in either of the two slots. The number on the slot is 1/2 of the total advance. One is 13, which would be 26 degrees.

The two I have been working on were hard to rotate. I pulled the shaft out and found varnish on the shaft. I don't see how the bushing gets much lube. I have one that has an oil cup to lube the bushing. May try to drill a hole for the ones that don't have the oil cup.

 

Well- it's a little better, but not good enough. I even went as far as bending the spring holders until both springs were sloppy but that wasn't good enough either. I'm thinking about pulling one of the springs out and see what happens.

Let you know-

Joe

 

If you take out one spring, you will have too much advance. I tried that. It seems like the points distributors I have tested don't have the problem with advance that the Durospark ones do. That doesn't compute since the advance mechanisim is the same.

 

When you took out one spring, did you try using a stiffer spring for the one you left in place? It'll be this weekend before I can play with it some more.

I'm almost certain my distributor is stamped Motorcraft, I could be mistaken. I bought it last year from O'Reilly Auto and have converted it to electronic by way of a Crane Cams Kit. I just don't understand why it won't advance any quicker than 5* from 800RPM to 1000RPM, then only 5 more from 1000 to 1500.

I thought about setting my timing according to best vacuum at idle, then at 1000RPM, setting it for best idle, and do that for every 500RPM there after and record the results. That way I can build a curve that will give me he best vacuum throughout the RPM band. Does that sound like it makes sense?

Joe