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I am using a synthetic oil and I would like to know at what point should I change it. I put a new oil filter in at 5k and now am wondering what would be recomended for me to change oil all together.
I use schaeffer and change my filter every 5,000. The last oil test told me to change oil at 10,500. But I change the oil & filter at 10,000. I think it's a good idea to change the filter inbetween oil changes that long IMO.
I switched to Rotella T 5W40 synthetic at 15K. Just changed it again at 20K and plan on changing it every 5K miles. I just don't have the nerve to go further although the oil at 5k miles looks great. JMHO:O)
Before we get to far into this thread...let me just say that motivationteam didn't ask for anyone's approval or even opinion on the type of oil he should use...so please stay on topic and provide him with some great info on oil change intervals.
It doesn't matter what our opinions are. What matters is what shape your oil is in. Send some samples off to Blackstone (or the lab or your choice) and see if the oil is holding up to the way YOU drive.
On my 2003, the samples at 5000 mile intervals were in good shape, At 6000 miles they were still in good shape. At 7000 Blackstone reported back they were still safe but starting to wear. So I changed my oil at 6000 mile intervals.
The small cost of an oil analysis can quickly be saved if you can extend your oil change interval.
I think so far everyone is giving good advice. The one thing you want to notice about a oil sample results are the silcone numbers. No, syn oils don't break down as do conventional oils but they still get dirty from contaminents and dust.
I tell my customers to change syn oils by going by the manufactures recommendations. If the owners manual says change ever 5000 miles, then do that.
Syn oils are far superior than conven. oils but all get dirty.
Amsoil says their Heavy Duty Diesel 0W-30 will last up to 25K miles when used in conjunction with their newest "EA" filters, which are also rated to 25K miles (or 1 year, whichever comes first-assuming non-severe service use). Adding an Amsoil secondary filter (called a bypass filter) will extend that drain interval figure safely and exponentially. I have seen in excess of 500K on one oil change, but 100K is more likely. In any case, in that area of the twilight zone, you had better be running OIL ANALYSIS, should anything go wrong. I usually get only 75K miles between oil changes, but I am severe service. I can afford to run any oil I choose. In my opinion, Amsoil is at the top in quality and price. If you factor in the longer drain intervals, the price is in line or lower than competing oils. The low friction and pour point improve fuel economy and engine protection, thus lowering the overall price. Addittionally, piggy-backing their pre-luber system almost eliminates all the wear related to dry starts, which usually accounts for more than half of all engine wear. Been using this oil in my '06 PSD dually, and have not burned a quart of oil in 15K miles. Still liked my 7.3 better in some ways though.
By going to the Amsoil website, you should be able to find the recently updated drain-interval figures, to answer your question. Hopefully, you remember which one of their oils you are using, as they all have varying drain intervals, and there are so many. Just remember, the figures given are WITHOUT a bypass filtration system. I feel the numbers given there are conservative, but I would NOT follow those recommendations if mixing with other brands of oil or filters. Anytime you exceed the manufacturer's recommended oil drain interval, you had better know what you are doing. Running periodic spectrochemical oil analysis (independent, of course), covers your butt (assuming you follow their results recommendations). Good luck MOTIVATIONTEAM.
I used to run amsoil with amsoil filters and did 5K mile filter changes and 15K mile oil changes. I am now running the new amsoil EA filters and will go 20K and send in a sample. I sample all my oil changes and have Blackstone do the checking. 15K miles was the edge of safe on regular filters. Ill try the 20K interval with this new filter and I will tell the results.
1) Ford says to change oil every 5,000 for severe service (towing etc..) and no more than 7,500 miles for normal service.
2) Ford and their dealers do not recognize oil analysis reports for any reason for any problem. Get them for your own piece of mind and records, but nothing more.
3) It has been proven that the 6.0L motor likes clean fresh oil to fire the injectors properly.
4) The 6.0L motor shears 40 weight oil down to that of a 30 weight (proven by all that get oil analysis).
5) The latest diesel oil rating is CI4+ and was designed for reduced shearing and soot control (a must in my book).
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With those points made, use an oil that is CI4+ rated. Change between 5,000 - 7,500 every time and document it with oil filter, oil and written records and receipts. Consistency and a pattern shows comittment to doing it on a regular basis.
Synthetic is fine and many like its protection and winter/summer operating benefits, but make sure it is CI4+ rated!! USe synthetics for protection reasons and not for extended oil drains... at least while under the 100,0000 mile warranty.
I use Rotella-Syn 5W-40 and change every 5,000 miles like clock work, but if on a road trip, a few extra miles and I still feel good and will change when I get home.
With so many synthetics out on the market, buy one you like and keep changing it on a regularar basis. ALl reputable brands (Rotella, Mobil and the like and a few others) all state to follow your manufacture's interval for oil changes... and they are right. Any brand that promotes longer intervals is just trying to justify the extra cost of the oil and make it appear that is costs less over time... but at what expense?
Heck, I used Motorcraft 15-40 dino oil for the first 50,000 miles and my Blackstone reports came back as good as anyone else's that posted here... but I switched to synthetic for winter, summer and mpg increase reasons.
Any brand that promotes longer intervals is just trying to justify the extra cost of the oil and make it appear that is costs less over time... but at what expense?
Vehicle's manufacturer warranty, poor running, etc. ....As far as I know, there is only one brand that's pushing this!!!
Actually, Mobil 1 was touting extended drain intervals not long after Amsoil started to back in the seventies. They've only backed off recently due to reformulation of base stocks to something of lesser quality in order to compete better in the marketplace. But even third tier brands are going the extended drain/fill-for-life route, depending on the application (think heavy trucks; differentials etc.). Europe has already seen more incremental drain interval increases due to their more limited resources.
The important factor to remember, is that synthetics do everything better, but even they get dirty at approximately the same rate as anything else. That is why I would only consider extended drains if the oil company has designed filtration to take advantage of the potential of extended drains. As far as I know, only Amsoil has stuck their necks out to lead in this area. Without matching filtration, I would change a synthetic at the manufacturer's recommendation. However, it is just a matter of time before Amsoil's increasing market share forces the others to compete by introducing filtration to match the superiority of synthetics.
As far as backing up your drain intervals by oil analysis, we know the dealer may or may not give you crap about about warranty coverage. I've had one dealer even try to void an engine fire claim because I had an aftermarket stereo (it was a Daimler-Chrysler product). They can be seemingly arbitrary at times. Find a friendly dealer, and patronize them instead. In any case I believe Amsoil's own warranty takes over and covers all relevant parts even if the dealer would not. Just make sure you are **** about your recordkeeping. Claims are very rare, but I have seen them pay when they screw up.
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