Hi there. I've been reading through the posts looking for a previous problem like mine. I've read plenty of good info from lots of helpful people but I can't find an issue exactly like mine so I figure I'd throw it out there and see if anyone has any good advice.

Starting problem on a 2004 Ranger extended cab 4X4 (I'm way past my 36,000 mile warranty). The problem had been intermittant but now seems permanent. I turn the key and no crank. The battery is definitely good. It was tested. The battery cables appear to be clean and making good contact. I have 2 keys. I think they are both being recognized by the security system because when I put them in the ignition the flashing lock on the dash stops flashing when I turn the key. When I turn the key I do hear what I think is the fuel pump kicking in and also a faint click under the dash (the starter relay maybe?) I've verified all fuses in the fuse box under the hood appear to be intact. I've even switched up some of the same types of fuses. A visual inspecition of the wires turns up nothing but the wires to the started look a little coroded but are intact. I've tried doing that starter jump trick but I'm not sure I'm doing it right. It's very hard to see the wire connections to the starter from under the truck but I do see the wire on top at the solenoid and another heavy wire at the bottom. Am I supposed to connect these some how? I'm probably going to try to take the started out to see if I can get it tested or replaced but I can already tell this is going to be fun. I can barely get to the wire connection on top. Anyone have any advice as to what the best way to get this thing out is or if I should be checking for something else? I picked up the Haynes manual but it is crap. Most of the pictures show older versions of the Ranger and don't look like what I have. Their instructions for started removal also suck. Thanks in advance.

 

Welcome to FTE!!!

You didn't say which engine you have, starter removal would be different depending on the engine.


PINPOINT TEST A: THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK
CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS
A1 CHECK THE BATTERY
Check the battery condition and charge. Refer to Section 414-00 .


Is the battery OK?
Yes
GO to A2 .

No
CHARGE or INSTALL a new battery as required. TEST the system for normal operation.
A2 CHECK THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE

Measure the voltage between the positive battery post and the battery ground cable connection at the cylinder block (6010) or the starter motor mounting stud bolt (for the 4.0L engine).


Is the voltage reading greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A3 .

No
INSTALL a new battery ground cable (14301). TEST the system for normal operation.
A3 CHECK THE STARTER MOTOR GROUND

Measure the voltage between the battery positive post and the starter motor case.


Is the voltage reading greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A4 .

No
CLEAN the starter motor mounting flange and make sure the starter motor is correctly mounted. TEST the system for normal operation.
A4 CHECK THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE STARTER MOTOR

Measure the voltage at the starter motor B terminal.


Is the voltage reading greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A5 .

No
INSTALL a new positive battery cable. TEST the system for normal operation.
A5 CHECK THE STARTER MOTOR B-TERMINAL

Connect one end of a jumper wire to the B terminal of the starter motor and momentarily connect the other end to the starter solenoid S terminal.


Does the starter motor engage and the engine crank?
Yes
GO to A6 .

No
INSTALL a new starter motor. TEST the system for normal operation.
A6 CHECK START INPUT TO THE STARTER MOTOR


Stater S Connector
Hold the ignition switch to the START position.

Measure the voltage at the starter motor solenoid S terminal.


Is the voltage reading greater than 10 volts?
Yes
CLEAN the starter solenoid S terminal and connector. CHECK the wiring and the starter motor for a loose or intermittent connection. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A7 .
A7 CHECK THE START INPUT TO THE STARTER RELAY




Starter Relay

Hold the ignition switch in the START position.

Measure the voltage at the starter relay connector pin 86, circuit 1093 (TN/RD).


Is the voltage reading B+?
Yes
GO to A8 .

No
GO to A12 .
A8 CHECK THE BATTERY SUPPLY TO THE STARTER RELAY



Measure the voltage at the starter relay connector pin 30, circuit 37 (YE).


Is the voltage reading B+?
Yes
GO to A9 .

No
REPAIR the open in circuit 37 (YE). TEST the system for normal operation.
A9 CHECK THE STARTER RELAY GROUND

Measure the resistance between the starter relay connector pin 85, circuit 325 (DB/OG) and ground.


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
GO to A10 .

No
REPAIR circuit 325 (DB/OG) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.
A10 CHECK CIRCUIT 113 (YE/LB) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND


Starter Solenoid S Connector


Measure the resistance between the starter relay connector pin 87, circuit 113 (YE/LB) and ground.


Is the resistance reading 10,000 ohms or less?
Yes
REPAIR circuit 113 (YE/LB) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A11 .
A11 CHECK CIRCUIT 113 (YE/LB) FOR AN OPEN

Measure the resistance of circuit 113 (YE/LB) between the starter relay connector pin 87 and the starter solenoid S connector.


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
INSTALL a new starter relay. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 113 (YE/LB) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.
A12 CHECK THE START INPUT TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH (CPP)


CPP Switch C206

Hold the ignition switch to the START position.

Measure the voltage at the CPP switch or jumper connector pin C206-6, circuit 33 (WH/PK).


Is voltage reading B+?
Yes
GO to A19 .

No
GO to A13 .
A13 CHECK FUSE 24 (7.5A)




Fuse Junction Panel Fuse 24 (7.5A)



Fuse Junction Panel Fuse 24 (7.5A)



Is fuse 24 (7.5A) OK?
Yes
GO to A14 .

No
GO to A15 .
A14 CHECK THE INPUT TO FUSE 24 (7.5A)

Hold the ignition switch to the START position.
Measure the voltage at the input cavity of fuse 24 (7.5A).


Is the voltage reading B+?
Yes
REPAIR circuit 33 (WH/PK) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A22 .
A15 CHECK THE CPP INPUT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

Measure the resistance between the CPP switch or jumper connector pin C206-6, circuit 33 (WH/PK) and ground.


Is the resistance reading 10,000 ohms or less?
Yes
REPAIR circuit 33 (WH/PK) or circuit 32 (RD/LB) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A16 .
A16 CHECK CPP OUTPUT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND


Starter Relay


Measure the resistance between the CPP switch or jumper connector pin 206-5, circuit 329 (PK) and ground.


Is the resistance reading 10,000 ohms or less?
Yes
For manual transmission, REPAIR circuit 329 (PK) or circuit 1093 (TN/RD) for a short to ground. For automatic transmission, GO to A17 .

No
INSTALL a new fuse 24 (7.5A). TEST the system for normal operation. If fuse 24 opens again, CHECK the starting system for an intermittent short to ground.
A17 CHECK FOR A SHORTED DIGITAL TRANSMISSION RANGE (TR) SENSOR


Digital TR Sensor C1005


Measure the resistance between the CPP switch or jumper connector pin C206-5, circuit 329 (PK) and ground.


Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms or less?
Yes
REPAIR circuit 329 (PK) for short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to A18 .
A18 CHECK CIRCUIT 1093 (TN/RD) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

Measure the resistance between digital TR sensor connector pin C1005-10, circuit 1093 (TN/RD) and ground.


Is the resistance reading greater than 10,000 ohms or less?
Yes
REPAIR circuit 1093 (TN/RD) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
CHECK the digital TR sensor adjustment. REFER to Section 307-01 . If the digital TR sensor is not adjusted correctly, INSTALL a new digital TR sensor. TEST the system for normal operation.
A19 CHECK CPP OUTPUT FOR AN OPEN


Starter Relay


Measure the resistance between the CPP connector pin C206-5, circuit 329 (PK) and the starter relay connector pin 86, circuit 1093 (TN/RD).


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
INSTALL a new clutch pedal position switch or jumper. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
For manual transmission, REPAIR circuit 329 (PK) or circuit 1093 (TN/RD) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation. For automatic transmission, GO to A20 .
A20 CHECK CIRCUIT 329 (PK) FOR AN OPEN


Digital TR Sensor C1005


Measure the resistance of circuit 329 (PK) between the CPP connector pin C206-5 and the digital TR sensor connector pin C1005-12.


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
GO to A21 .

No
REPAIR Circuit 329 (PK) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.
A21 CHECK CIRCUIT 1093 (T/R) FOR AN OPEN

Measure the resistance of circuit 1093 (TN/RD) between the starter relay connector pin 86 and the digital TR sensor connector pin C1005-10.


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
CHECK the digital TR sensor adjustment. REFER to Section 307-01 . If the digital TR sensor is adjusted correctly, INSTALL a new digital TR sensor. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 1093 (TN/RD) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.
A22 CHECK THE SUPPLY TO THE IGNITION SWITCH


Ignition Switch C213


Measure the voltage at the ignition switch connector pin C213-B4, circuit 37 (YE).


Is the voltage reading greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A23 .

No
REPAIR Circuit 37 (YE) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.
A23 CHECK CIRCUIT 32 (RD/LB) FOR AN OPEN

Measure the resistance of circuit 32 (RD/LB) between the ignition switch connector pin C213-STA and the input cavity of fuse 24 (7.5A).


Is the resistance reading 5 ohms or less?
Yes
INSTALL a new ignition switch. REFER to Section 211-05 . TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 32 (RD/LB) for an open. TEST the system for normal operation.

 

Thanks for the info. Sorry, I forgot to mention, this is a 4.0 engine.

I noticed in the Haynes manual and on my 97 Ranger the starter relay is in between the battery and the fuse box. This isn't the case on my 2004 Ranger. There is a wiring diagram in the book but it doesn't indicate where this thing is. I could try to trace all of the wires but they are all bundled and I can't see how you can follow the wire without cutting the protective bundling sheath. Also, what is a CPP switch and Digital TR Sensor C1005 and where are they? I still can't figure out how you do the jumper test on the started. The solenoid is sitting on top of the starter motor and view and access to wires is obstructed. I think in order to take this out I'm going to have to pull the 2 main bolts of the starter motor (hopefully this is all there is), let it hang so I then can get to the soleniod wire(s) connection and then disconnect. Do you know of any good diagrams of the starter/solenoid so I can verify connections on this thing?

Here's what I did yesterday:
disconnected the battery ground connections, inspected the wires, sanded the ends of any debris/corrosion. They all appear fairly clean.

Pulled every single fuse and reverified, tested the pins in the fuse box with the voltmeter to verify current.

gently smacked the starter with a hammer

Kicked and swore at the truck.

Thanks in advance for any further help.

 

Sounds like a problem with the solenoid, you might wnt to try gettin that off and tested/replaced.

 

An auto will have a DTR, a manual will have a CPP, which do you have?

There should only be two wires to the starter, the cable from the battery and the small wire from the relay. Once you get a look I think it will make sense.

 

It's an automatic.

I've spent most of the day trying to get the starter out but I am having a heck of a time trying to get the top mount off. After 2 cans of liquid wrench and several hours of fighting all I have is a bolt that is stuck 1/4 of the way out, several cuts on my nuckles and one slightly bent wrench. I'm wondering if this was screwed in wrong initially.

So as far as the jumper test goes, I would run a heavy gauge wire from the large cable connection on the starter bottom mount up to the small wire on the top mount with the key in the on position (or does someone have to be in the truck turning the key while jumpering)?

I'm going to investigate other creative ways of getting that top mount off before just giving up and calling a tow truck but at least I know a little more than I did before.

Thanks.

 

Can anyone help with stater removal on a 04 4.0???

 

Well after alot of painful struggling I finally got the starter out of there and brought it to the parts store for testing. They said it was junk so I bought another one. Hopefully I'll be able to get it in tomorrow and be done with it.

It looks like the main problem was that the guy at the Ford dealership cross threaded to top bolt when he replaced the started a year ago.

The connections to the solenoid aren't even visible until you get the 2 main bolts out of the starter and are able to rotate the starter sideways. Even then, it's extremely tight getting to those nuts as well. What a pain.

Anyway, thanks for the assistance.

 

Let us know how things go with the new starter. Make sure you get those threads cleaned up before you install the new one.

 

New starter in. Truck running again.

 

Glad to hear she's running good again!!