I think I ask too many questions on this posting, but I figure you are the people to ask! Well, when installing my new intake/carb settup, I removed the distributor. The problem is, I think I marked the wrong thing on it, so right now I need to re-install it but I think it got twisted around. The gear on the bottom has to be lined up the same as when I removed it correct? Any ideas on how to do this- I know this is not a good thing to have done. Isnt it possible to line up the point to the first cylinder it fires, then set the timing or something? PLEASE HELP ONCE AGAIN!
Tristin

 

I just replaced my distributor too. To line it up with the compression/power stroke on #1, first pull the coil lead andl ocate the #1 cylinder and removed the plug. For the second part you will need either a second person or a cheater switch to turn the engine over. To FInd the compression/power stroke place your thumb or other large digit over/in the plug hole and crank. If you get nothing, oneor both valves are open and it is either the intake or exhuast troke. If you get a push, both valves are closed, this is the compression stroke. For the third part you will need to find top dead center. The easiest was I've found on the cheap to find top dead center is to get a piece of rod,longer than your stoke or it could fall in, and insert it down in to the bore through the plug hole. Crank the engine over by hand and watch the rod. When it reaches the peak of it's rise the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. O.K. now it gets fun. Find #1 on your distibutor and line up the rotot with it. Insert the distributor being carefull not to move the rotor too much, you will have to move it some wat to finagle it in there. Now put the boss clamp and bolt in place and snug it down just to the point where you can move it but it wont spin when ran. The rest is just timing if you did it right. Hope this helps.


xericx

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Dec-02 AT 06:20 PM (EST)]Following Xericx's steps, please note that the distributor gear is cut with slanted teeth. This slant results in the rotor rotating as the distributor gear slides into the cam gear. Once the distributor is in all the way, the rotor may have moved past #1 on the distributor cap. If so, with one hand on the rotor, slowly pull the distributor up with the other hand just to the point where you feel the distributor gear disengage(the position where the rotor will turn freely), then slightly(1/4" or so)turn the rotor back just enough to where you feel the distributor gear engage in the next tooth. Sometimes it takes a few tries to get the feel. Also, remember the hexagonal hole in the bottom of the distributor must slip over with the hexagonal oil shaft rod. It is aligned correctly if the distributor drops all the way in place. However, if the distributor bottoms and it sticks up about 1/4", turn the motor by hand a few degrees in either direction placing downward pressure on the distributor until it falls in place. Be sure to re-time the engine and you should be in business.

 

Wow, that sounds like its going to be fun. Thank both of you though- that will def. be done tommorow morning. I had that basic concept in my mind, but it will def. be done and easier since I have it in writing and another persons opinion. Thanks again guys.
Merry Christmas
Tristin

 

Ah yes- one more simple question, then I am done, hhahah I promise. When you say "turn the engine by hand" what do you mean? When I adjusted my timming last time I just turned the key a little you know, to crank it to move it. Am I supposed to actually grab the pulley and move it? Thanks
Tristin

 

It takes some work to just turn the pully the belt usually slips. A breaker bar or such wtih a socket works best I find. Just make sure that if you loosen the main pully bolt you torque it back down.

xericx

 

Gracias!

 

You guys forgot to mention having the vacuum advance in the proper position too(having enough swivel room to make the timing perfect).
The nipple of the vacuum advance should be pointing at the driver side tire.


Dennis

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I put a thin vacuum hose (1/4) in the plug hole. When it pushes out, I know I am on the up part of the stroke and it saves from having to turn the engine over.

On my 1965 390 you need a 15/16 short socket and 24" breaker bar to turn the engine by the crank pulley.

 

>You guys forgot to mention having the vacuum advance in the
>proper position too(having enough swivel room to make the
>timing perfect).
>The nipple of the vacuum advance should be pointing at the
>driver side tire.


Dennis, I don't know where your nipple is but the vacuum advance should be almost facing forward, just a tad to the driver's side.

Barry

 

Well thanks to everyones advice. It got everything back in there- including the new intake/carb and wow, does she scream! I took her out last night on the town and opened her up, burned 1/2 tank but it was well worth it. Thanks again!
Tristin