Here Lately my 99 F-250 has been acting up. I'll be driving along fine, when alt of a sudden the engine will lose power and running rough. The check engine light comes on, and when I give it gas it will rev up some but will barely pull. I pull over it will continue for a little bit and then clear up and it runs fine until it desides to do it again. The the past month its done it 5 or 6 times. Where do I need to start to find the problem.

P.S. The truck is stock, no chips or tuners.

Thanks
Chad

 

Most common cause of those symptoms are a failing CPS or wiring coming loose under the valve covers for the fuel injectors. You can get the parts neccessary for the repairs for half the cost than at Ford if you go to your local International truck dealer and ask for the parts for a (your year of production) T444E.
It's usually the CPS.
But you have a '99 as do I so I must show you what I found under my valve covers.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=278697


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since your check engine light comes on that will point you in the right direction. kwik is right for the 2 most common points of interest for your symptoms but the CEL will tell you which one to check. the CPS will come up with a cam sensor code. the valve cover harness may come up with a high to low side open for one cylinder or another. or another similar code. get the codes pulled at autozone or someplace and post them here and we can give some guideance.

 

Earlier I took it to a parts store to put on a scanner. Nothing came up. The man told me the check engine light had to be on for it to read the problem. I guy at work told me it would store it on a memory. I'm gonna take it to him tomorrow to put on his scanner. I believe the problem lies some where with the injectors wiring or some kind of sensor.

Thanks
Chad

 

i am a mechanic and i read codes on car all the time that have no check engine light on. they are stored in a memory. it may be true that the code reader the parts store was using can't read the code unless the light is on but that doesn't mean that there isn't a code.
so have your buddy check it out and let us know. if he can't read it you may have to take it to a shop to have it read.

 

I back up what tjbeggs said.
IF THE LIGHT CAME ON, THERE WILL BE A CODE. It's required that it be stored in memory until deleted.
If that cheapo code reader could not see it, that doesn't mean that there is no code.

 

The parts store scanner won't read it while the light is on....it's a diesel thing.

 

the parts guy told him the had to be on to read it. its not so much a diesel thing as a like kwik said a cheap scanner thing. for real scanners (tech 2 for Gm, snap on scanner adn a few others) it doesn't matter what the CEL is doing it is able to look at everything the computer is doing. some better than other though. i was working on a gm truck yesterday and the snap on scanner had about 10 data values i could watch fo the transmission so i got out the tech 2 which is specifically for GM vehicles and it had 39 values.

no all code readers/scanner are created equal but all OBD2 vehicles are. even though many of our trucks don't ahve to be obd2. but they will still work with many scanners

 

I had a problem with my 2k2 7.3L with the very same problem....i brought to the ford dealer (i'm good buddies with 3 of the mechanics) and there was NO code...but it only did it 2 times in feb and hasent done it since

Coldman

 

Ok got my truck scanned. It came up with these three codes.


P1316 IDM codes detected

P0261 Cyl 1 Injector ckt low

P0476 Exh Pres CTRL Valve Perform

What should I do now?

Chad

 

I think that's your best bet.

 

ok heres where to start. p1316 is just telling you that p0261 exists in the idm. so don't worry about that one. p0476 probably means your exhuat back pressure sensor is bad, or unplugged or the exhaust backpressure valve is unplugged. you may know why that one is there. but that code is also not a concern to us for your problems. p0261 is the code that tells us where to start. it definition is "cyl 1 low side short to ground" the injectors have 2 wires running to them. one is called the low side and the other is the high side. so the low side wire is shorting to ground some where betweent he idm in your drivers side inner fender and the injector at cyl. #1. #1 is the front passenger side cylinder then going toward the back the cylinders are number 1,3,5,7 on the passenger side and 2,4,6,8 front to back on the drivers side.

kwik is probably right that your problem is under the valve cover. a wire probably is rubbed through and touch the head or a rocker arm or push rod something like that. it is also possible but unlikely that the coild on the top of the injector has shorted but that is unlikely.

the wire you need to check our is at the passenger side valve cover connector. it will be the third wire from the front. the first 2 are glow plug wires (this is all assuming that there is only one valve cover connector per side. if you have 2 connectors per valve cover it will be the front connector 2nd wire) i think it is tan. if you have an ohm meter put on side to the ground terminal on the battery and touch it to the valve cover side connector. since your problem is intermitent you may not find the problems this way. also touch the ohm meter to the harness side connector and see if you get continutity (ie less than say 500ohms) there should not be less than that and that number is probably low. if you find nothing there do a wiggle check. start the truck with all connector hooked up and wiggle the harness listen and see if the engine stumbles at all and if it does try to pinpoint the bad spot in the wire.

if none of that works then its time to pull the valve cover and check the under valve cover harness. using your ohm meter again wiggle wires. look for chaffed wires or burned wires.

that should get you started toward your problems. keep us posted!

 

And everything works fine. This site and the help I recieved here were great!!!! I was having some of the same problems. One more question though!! After installing the new CPS, I may have stripped the bolt that connects it to the block. Took it on a test drive, had no problems, but I am still a little worried. Any suggestions?

 

You should be so lucky to have stripped the bolt. More likely, you stripped the threads in the hole it goes into.

The bolt is available anywhere metric bolts are sold. Metric taps may be, too, as well as metric Helicoils.

Bummer.

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