Adjustable setup

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Mar 23, 2006 | 08:10 PM

#31

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

I never shot anything down kurt, i was merely questioning someone with more experience than me and then the forum kept running. The internet is not the clearest place to communicate which has be eximplified multiple times on this site by many other guys...it's easy to get confused and misunderstood so please don't take anything personal and i'll do the same. Thanks again kurt for all your info...you've been a big help and good base for touching back to for clarification on things!

Mar 23, 2006 | 08:23 PM

#32

ceetwarrior

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From: Colorado

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73F100*8Mile

.... The internet is not the clearest place to communicate which has be eximplified multiple times on this site by many other guys...it's easy to get confused and misunderstood...

True that! I'm sure I've pissed off dozens of people around this site.

Mar 23, 2006 | 08:51 PM

#33

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Hey Ceet, does that mean we look at a problem in a different way, light, angle or something? Knock heads?
One does learn more with ears than mouth or sharp tongue, 40 plus years experience vs youth (you are young) and your comments like the last one "your a ricer" and other off color comments in the past will get you the respect you earned from not just me but others on this forum and life in general. Think about it next time when you have a important question or problem and no one replies like why should they or what you don't want to hear. I just wanted to get that out, let's move on to mechanical Ford problem items, above discussion closed. Carl.....=o&o>.....

Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Mar 23, 2006 at 08:57 PM.

Mar 23, 2006 | 11:18 PM

#34

charles jones

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From: Mesquite, Texas

Thanks Rusty, I'll put them in tomorrow night or Sat. Depends on the weather. We had 8 1/4 in. of rain last week end so that stopped all work on it because the garage was cluttered but we got the garage cleaned out because of the rain so we are good to go this week end lol

Mar 24, 2006 | 09:02 AM

#35

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

holy snot 8.25" of rain!!! surprised you didn't wash away! too bad you couldn't have done the rods in your garage. good rainy day work!

Mar 24, 2006 | 09:58 AM

#36

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

hey got to reading on the crane site and i figured that my final lift of my exhaust valves (correct me if wrong) will be .990 due to the original .563 lobe lift and the 1.76 rocker ratio? Sound right? does that mean that i have almost a 1" lift on my exhaust valve? Also a friend of mine told me that i don't want alot of preload on the cam b/c of early lifter wear due to more radical cam profile and stiffer springs. Could i safely start off with .025-.030 preload and adjust accordingly if needed? If i don't have enough preload it'll just be clicking right and it won't hurt anything for the first while correct?

Mar 24, 2006 | 10:49 AM

#37

rusty70f100

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From: Iowa

Yeah, I guess I get easily frustrated. Sorry, no harm done.

You're confusing lobe lift with cam lift. Take a look here:

http://www.cranecams.com/index.php?s...41&lvl=2&prt=5

Lift at lobe is .3207" intake, .3200" exhaust. Valve lift is that multiplied by the rocker arm ratio of 1.76, so we get .533" intake valve lift and .563" exhaust valve lift.

From what I understand, you want preload to be between .020" and .060". Anything in that range should work fine. Personally I like to go toward the higher end of that range, to allow for more wear. If you're getting the Crane Anti-pumpup lifters you shouldn't have to worry about the lifters pumping up and holding the valves open, or any wear concerns.

Cam and lifter wear is in a large part determined by spring pressure, not preload.

Mar 24, 2006 | 12:20 PM

#38

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

"lobe lift with cam lift"?
Isn't that the same thing, you want lobe lift vs valve lift then your rocker ratio math will work.
.....=o&o>.....

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Mar 24, 2006 | 12:43 PM

#39

rusty70f100

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From: Iowa

There must be a wire crossed in my brain this morning or something. I just didn't sleep good at all last night.

I meant he was confusing lobe lift with valve lift on the Crane spec sheet.

Mar 24, 2006 | 01:42 PM

#40

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

I just wanted to pester ya, now if you have a Rover were the factory cams are shot before 60K then your valve lift is lower than the initial (new) lobe lift.
Another day of rain in the SF bay area.
.....=o&o>.....

Mar 24, 2006 | 02:46 PM

#41

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

oh ok gotcha, well i got the $180 cam/lifter package and i didn't see anything about anitpump lifters so i'm probably gonna stay low for the first few hundred miles...thats what i love about adj rockers!! you need a change-you can change with just the turn of a wrench!

Mar 25, 2006 | 07:38 AM

#42

xfordman

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From: Grain Valley Mo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73F100*8Mile

If i don't have enough preload it'll just be clicking right and it won't hurt anything for the first while correct?

___________________________
Anybody, chime in if I'm wrong here........if the valve train is clicking, then there is no preload on the lifter, or very little. Don't you need preload on the lifter to make it spin on the cam? I would think this would be crucial on the cam break in.

Mar 25, 2006 | 09:18 AM

#43

Putt

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From: Colville, Washington

Preload is necessary on hydraulic lifters for proper operation, xford, so I agree. There should not be any clicking from the valve train. I am not sure if it is required for lifter spin, but with no preload on a hydraulic lifter the snap ring that holds the insides in place can come out.

Mar 25, 2006 | 02:41 PM

#44

73F100*8Mile

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From: NE Ga

good thinkin xford, i'll probably start out with 3/4 on the adjustment after zero lash for proper breakin and then after the first hundred or so miles i can tinker with it as i please.