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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 11:23 PM
  #16  
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Rockledge
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From: Connecticut
http://fordcustoms.com/techarticles/tech10/

Note: click on the thumbnails which are links to larger pics.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2006 | 11:31 PM
  #17  
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zman764
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looks fun, i think that estimate of 45-60 minutes is high though
 
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #18  
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nascar88ford
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My dad's 2000 dash light went out behind the fuel guage. Just curious, while we change the fuel guage light, what does it take to replace the light in the headlight switch?Do you have to buy a new switch? I thought it was the coolest thing when you start up the Ranger at night and the light above the headlight switch would light up so you know where it was.
-Matt
 
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:56 AM
  #19  
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ledbetter
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From: Pcola, FL
The light in the headlight switch is a tiny little bulb. I think the original one is really hard to come by. Many remove the old bulb and carefully peel off the green (or blue) rubber covering and replace the original bulb with a small 12-v bulb from Radio Shack.

Here's a link for a previous discussion: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=298839
 

Last edited by ledbetter; Mar 21, 2006 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:39 PM
  #20  
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natebaker
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From: Blytheville, AR
It's a different kind of voltage. DC is more powerful. (12v dc will start your truck, while 120v ac will power your lamp!?!)
 
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #21  
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zman764
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Your lamp has a 20-200 watt light bulb. The starter motor spins a giant gear between 1-2 foot in diamteter(flywheel) With such super low gearratios it really doesn't take a powerful starter motor.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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natebaker
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From: Blytheville, AR
The point was to make DC is more powerful than AC. 12v killing is an exaggeration, but due to the type of current, the way it flows makes it more potent.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #23  
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zman764
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Ok finished up a lil while ago. Wasn't too bad, she doesn't have tilt steering and i defanintley see where that would of made it easer ha ha
But when i got done i started wondering what was the point in taking off the knee bolster? Maybe I just don't remember what the reason was, but I can't think of why it was necesary? Does some one with a better memory know?

Thank ya'll very much for all of ya'lls help.
 

Last edited by zman764; Mar 26, 2006 at 09:44 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:20 AM
  #24  
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Tiggie
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From: Moneta, VA
Mine had bolts behind the knee bolster, holding the trim around the instrument cluster on, there by preventing removal of the cluster. According to some of the above posts, the '99's didn't have the bolts there, so you didn't have to remove it. Yup, tilt steering helps a lot with this project, that's about all I use it for, though!

The cluster bezel's differ by the following models: 1995-1996 (To 2/16/96), 1996 (from 2/16/96) to 1997. 1998 is unique. Finally, you have the '99-'00 models. These all probably interchange, but there are some differences between them.
 
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