I'm leaning to the acrylic urethane.but I'm not sure like you I am researching.There's a website that has professional body and paint people who run it to help people who like diy projects.I'll see if i can find the website and post it or I can pm to you.

 

what about hardener and reducer. whats the deal with them why are the needed,what are the mix ratios for the reducer?

 

I know they have to do with how the paint sprays and hardens without the reducer and hardener the paint won't spray well and the paint will stay soft and not cure. You should get all the mixing ratios with the instructions.Like you I'm learning as I go.

 

59flatbedford. Try this website. www.autobody101.com this site will help alot

 

Check this out for paint forum. http://p2forum.proboards56.com

 

Kirker has been discussed on another board i post on a few times, hotrodders.com if you do a search. Most of the threads turned into a punching match though, one of the guys that posted must have been involved with kirker in someway or something, and he always caused trouble and had something to say about anyone who wasn't pro kirker. I never used it myself, so I can't comment on it. I have used the marhyde multipurpose clear that they sell at smartshoppers at one of my old jobs, and a few cars I've painted at home, and the clear is pretty decent. Not watery thin like a lot of cheaper clears. I buy it from a local supplier though, never ordered from smart shoppers. As far as your paint choice, The best would be acrylic urethane. Second best would be acrylic enamel, but use a hardener with it, even though they can be sprayed without. I wouldn't use the synthetic enamel. Is some of this single stage you are looking at since you said acrylic and synthetic enamel. A two tone will be easier to do using base clear, as well as save a lot of time. It will take a lot longer to be able to tape off for spraying your other color with the single stage. Base clear will also have added uv protection and depth because of the clear coats on top.

 

i am planning on a basecoat/cleatcoat system as that sounds like the easest for a novice to make look good. this will be my firstpaint job so i don't know much about paint and am glad there sites like this to help me out. so do i need to use a hardener with the acrilic urethane?

 

yes.urethanes cure chemically so it will absolutely require one or it woudn't cure. Also the temp need to be above 55 degrees for the activators to work, so make sure the area you are painting is at least that warm, preferably warmer though, and the metal on the truck has warmed up to that. May not be a concern wherever you live, but here in Wisconsin it is still a bit cold. Somewher around 70 degrees with fairly low humidity is good conditions for spraying. For clearing I like to use a slow activator or reducer even if the temps a little low for it. But you would need to allow longer times between coats, and be carefull to not go to heavy painting and run it. Medium is okay too, I wouldn't use fast unless absolutely had to. Enamels can be sprayed without one, but it probably be a long long time before it cured all the way through, and using a hardener in a acrylic enamel will give better gloss, durability, and buffability. Acrylic Enamels were used a lot in the 80's and still aren't a terrible paint, and the cost is reasonable, but the urethanes and polyurethanes that are mainly used today are better. I sprayed quite a few jobs with Dupont Centari acrylic enamel over the years, but its outdated today. Life expectacy would be less and the only shops that still use much enamel would be the quicky big production shops like maaco or shrieb.

 

thanks ill probaly use urethane than and i think i found the ratios for reducing it and then hardening it so i should be able to get it done. i think ill use kirker off smartshoppers, but ill check in town and see what i can locally, pickings are usally a little slim here in sheredan, wyoming. and thanks for all the advice any more will be appreciated.

 

has any one every heard of rayflex paint, i found it at paintforcars.com, they offer acrilic enamel and acrilic laquer, whats the difference, has any one used or know any one who has used it, how is it, is it worth the 30 bucks a gollon or is it trash?

 

has anyone used the martin seymour paint that napa sells it is okay, i haven't check around town to see what all i could find but we have a napa so they should have this paint or be able to oder it. im just looking for an inexpexsive paint that i can shoot on my 59 with a 20 dollar gun from walmart or something and look decent all things considered