First I would like to thank everyone for all the information on this site, it has been very helpful. Now to my problem that maybe some of you can help me with. I've got a 2001 F250 4X4 PSD with 54000 miles, still under warranty. This week for 3 days in a row on initial startup the SES light would come on and the truck would miss/run rough. It would start as soon as I pulled onto the road and the SES light would only stay on for a few miles then go out and truck would run normal. Only did this when cold, no problems when truck was warm. I used a Snap-On scanner my grandfather has, pulled code P1316 (IDM codes detected). After doing a search on here I ran a KOEO test and it showed code P1274 (Cyl 4 High to Low Side open). Same code showed up with injector buzz test. Pulled driver side valve cover and found UVC wire harness connector coming loose on side toward front of engine, reconnected it and made sure all wires looked in good shape. Did this on friday and truck has been running good with no SES light and no codes in PCM after being cleared. However the P1274 code still shows during KOEO and injector test. Is this the beginning of #4 injector going bad and should I take it to the dealer and let them check it. Thanks for any help.




2001 F250 4X4 RC 7.3 6 speed

 

I wouldn't take it to the dealer...they always find something wrong. How is she running now? How's your idle,acceleration,power output feel?
Nut

 

PSNut,
Everything is normal. Runs as good as always, good power and normal idle.

 

That's a good sign for sure. I question the accuracy of the scan tool?
If u lived close by i'd love to throw it on my Autoenginuity diagnostic software i have on my laptop....dang...would love to put it to more use helping others.
Nut

 

I think that sometimes those scan tools don't clear codes as well as they read them. Maybe try disconnecting the batteries for a while....that will clear every code.

If you would have taken it to the dealer they would have put an injector in it. That's how most of those places work anymore. Scan it, replace what the tool says, get it out of the bay.

 

I totally agree Cookie.

 

Thanks for the advice. I really don't want to go to the dealer when so far it looks like I fixed the problem.

 

I think that is the right decision. No point in paying that $100 deductable when you've already completed the repair.