Spindle nut...how to tighten?
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Spindle nut...how to tighten?
My shop manual hasn't arrived yet and I need to re-assemble the front hub. How do I tighten/adjust the front spindle nut? Is it a torque rating or a clearance/run-out setting?
Truck is an '85 F350 dually with 8 lug hubs/wheels.
Also...what is the torque setting for the 8 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Truck is an '85 F350 dually with 8 lug hubs/wheels.
Also...what is the torque setting for the 8 bolts that hold the rotor to the hub?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
Likes: 10
Your wheel bearings will be taper roller. With the hub assembled gently tighten the nut untill there is no movement when you try to rock the rotor. Do this very gently, a bit at a time so you find the point where all play just disappears. This is then the correct setting. As far as the torque goes I don`t know but I would think very tight would do.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 26
From: Connecticut
With a Spindle nut socket, torque to 90 ft/lbs (while rotating the wheel back and forth) then back the nut off 90 degrees.
You HAVE to put the pin from the first lock ring into one of the holes in the lock-ring-washer.
You HAVE to put the pin from the first lock ring into one of the holes in the lock-ring-washer.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 53
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Hi Danny. I have some dealership knowledge which my be usefull. When we did hub work, we followed a procedure similar to what Lazyk outlined; we would use channel
locks and spin the hub as we tightened the nut in small increments. When the hub
would NOT freewheel all the way around 360 degrees, we'd back the nut off just
until it came to the next locking tang on the castle nut (lock) where the cotter pins
goes in.Do this two or three times;tighten it down then back it off and repeat.This
will help seat the bearings gently so they won't distort and bind. You'll see a slight difference in the distance you have to turn the nut each time to stop the hub from
going all the way around.When the nut starts tightening up at pretty well the same
spot, back it off like I said above and put in the cotter pin. I've used this procedure
many times on many vehicles and have never had a premature bearing failure. Hope
this helps.Steve66
locks and spin the hub as we tightened the nut in small increments. When the hub
would NOT freewheel all the way around 360 degrees, we'd back the nut off just
until it came to the next locking tang on the castle nut (lock) where the cotter pins
goes in.Do this two or three times;tighten it down then back it off and repeat.This
will help seat the bearings gently so they won't distort and bind. You'll see a slight difference in the distance you have to turn the nut each time to stop the hub from
going all the way around.When the nut starts tightening up at pretty well the same
spot, back it off like I said above and put in the cotter pin. I've used this procedure
many times on many vehicles and have never had a premature bearing failure. Hope
this helps.Steve66
Postmaster
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,854
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Also, the gentleman said torque to 90, then back off 90 degrees.
Thats gonna be about the same as the other recommendation.
Here's my version.....tight enough so you don't have hub/wheel movement, loose enough so it spins OK.
Thats gonna be about the same as the other recommendation.
Here's my version.....tight enough so you don't have hub/wheel movement, loose enough so it spins OK.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 239
Likes: 1
My book says to tighten to 22-25 ft/lbs, turn the hub in a forward direction, check to see if it is still torqued to 22-25 lbs, back off 1/8 turn.
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