Did you know that you can change a lifter in a big block 390 without pulling the intake manifold?? Let me tell you, you can!

 

I'm guessing there's a story here.........
And I know it wasn't an exhaust on 1,4,5, or 8.

 

I am all ears.

 

Hello! Hello? We're waiting.

 

I'm not sure with one Lee Armistead is talking about but I have changed a lifter without removing the intake, and it was #1 exhaust lifter. My son and I did it on our 66 2wd with a 352 engine using a magnet, needle nose pliers and a screwdriver to lift the lifter out and same to put it back in.
Allen

 

I didn't change lifters, but I have pulled lifters out to inspect them and drop them back in thier holes. I seriously doubt you could change a set of lifters without pulling the intake.

 

Unless he's set us up for a reply like "pull the head and leave the intake on".
But it looks like his post might just be a hit and run here.

 

Been there and done that in 1973.

 

Get that man a cookie!

Also been there done that. But the intake is like lifting a peice of paper so why not pull it anyways. Good time to replace the gaskets and seals.

 

Piece of paper. Good one.

Helm manual from 69 shows the process.

I doubt it's a hit and run. 'Course we could always talk about rocker studs.

Peace

 

Come on guys, this is no hit and run. I'm not saying that I'm the first to accomplish this move. This posting is just to share information to those that might run into the same problem that I did. Work truck was down and I needed it back in service! For those who truly haven't been there and done it. Identify the cylinder by pulling a compression check, Mine was # 1 @ 30 #'s. Pulled the plug wires on that bank, numbered them to put back in place, removed the valve cover, lossened and removed the rocker arm shaft (be careful not to disturb the other push rods). In my case I replaced both intake and exhaust lifters/push rods. Removed the obvious bent rod as well as the one next to it for that cylinder. Using a small bright flash light I examined the inside cavity (space beteen the head and intake manifold) lifters are clearly visible. Using a "Quicky Lifter Removal tool" (sold at NAPA autoparts) I inserted the tool through the openings beteen the intake manifold mounting bolt and the intake ports of the head, not much room. Insert the removal tool into the center of the lifter and depress the stem in the center of the tool. Pull the lifter upward until it slips out of the hole. Once removed one can also inspect the surface area of the cam shaft. Here is where it got tricky. Once the lifter were removed I had to set them down and use the tool to nudge them over to the larger opening. I again latched onto the lifter and attempted to pull it up through the opening, wouldn't come out, the opening wasn't wide enough. Space required was about 1/32" more than I had. I realized the there was an intake gasket in place that is about a 1/16" in width. Using a hand held hack saw blade I cut through the gasket and removed that portion of the gasket that runs from port to port. Removal does not effect the port connection. I reached in with the Quicky tool, latched into the lifter and out it came. Process for replacement was the reverse procedure except for the gasket (can't replace it but don't need it!). The lifters slid right back into there holes, slid in the push rods, remounted the rocker arm shaft and with two hours my truck was back on the road. I sincerly hope that this information will help someone that needs it. As for guys that have nothing better to do than disassemble their engine just to change a gasket that dosen't need changing I tell you that you have to much time on your hands. My father taught me a very long time ago, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Regards to everyone, Lee Armistead

 

Why did you change the lifters if the pushrods were bent??? I would be most worried about why the pushrods bent in the first place. Even a stock truck FE will tach up pretty darn high before valves float and valvetrain suffers. Hope you broke the new lifters in before letting the engine idle. Well atleast you fixed it.

 

Elder, Since I found a bent push rod on that cylinder I felt that some stress might have been placed on the adjacent so I changed that one also. The lifter had come apart, the center button held by the spring retainer in the top of the lifter had come out (seat for the lower end of the push rod) and was laying on top of the engine block. Fished it out with a magnet. Truck now runs better than ever. Lee

 

Oh my God you are my hero... This is exactly what I wanted to hear...

I just put in a fresh rebuilt longblock, but I have a bad lifter on the passenger side, just one, it is bleeding down when I turn the engine off, so every time I start the engine I get a tock-tock noise until the pressure pumps up.

So, I was dreading having to remove the fan, water pump, intake manifold....blah blah blah blah! Tons of work, what a shame when I just finished putting it together! And those gaskets cost money!

So, I am extremely happy to hear this... In fact I kind of guessed it MIGHT be possible, I was just going to post asking if it was.

I have some extremely strong magnets I will probably use attached to a stick, for the removal

 

Thanks for your inquiry. If you need further info please email me direct, leearmistead1@netzero.net. The most inportant part of this repair is to cut the intake manifold gasket that spans between the intake mounting bolts. The thickness of the gasket is just enough to prevent removal of the old lifter, you need the clearance! I used a hack saw blade (hand held) to squarely cut the gasket. Good luck and it was my please to help. Lee Armistead, Tampa, FL.