Limited Slip...Posi...Locker differences???
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Right now I have stock D60 front and rear axles
with LSD's. If I was going to get a locker would
it be best to put it in the front first? Then do the rear
or buy the rear first. I'll barely have enough money
to buy the locker to begin with let alone two of them.
Are they always $600+ is that a normal price?
Any special place you guys buy them at?
with LSD's. If I was going to get a locker would
it be best to put it in the front first? Then do the rear
or buy the rear first. I'll barely have enough money
to buy the locker to begin with let alone two of them.
Are they always $600+ is that a normal price?
Any special place you guys buy them at?
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,219
Likes: 2,676
From: GA
Originally Posted by gyger1
Right now I have stock D60 front and rear axles
with LSD's. If I was going to get a locker would
it be best to put it in the front first? Then do the rear
or buy the rear first. I'll barely have enough money
to buy the locker to begin with let alone two of them.
Are they always $600+ is that a normal price?
Any special place you guys buy them at?
with LSD's. If I was going to get a locker would
it be best to put it in the front first? Then do the rear
or buy the rear first. I'll barely have enough money
to buy the locker to begin with let alone two of them.
Are they always $600+ is that a normal price?
Any special place you guys buy them at?
since your strapped for cash, i would buy a 14 bolt, but on eof the 300 dollar detroits, weld some perches on the puppy and run that in the rear.
youl be alot happier with a rear locker rather than a front if your just running one
its a bear to turn the steering wheel when the front is locked in, especially without hydro assist...it can lead to sector shaft failure
ill shutup now....basically i would say get a cheap 14 bolt and throw the detroit in it
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 523
Likes: 0
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
its a bear to turn the steering wheel when the front is locked in, especially without hydro assist...it can lead to sector shaft failure
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I'll probably only ever go to like MAYBE 37" tires.
I like the suspnsion travel with my 6" lift. I wanna
keep it as a slight trail rig not a big mudder.
Wouldn't the cost of a different axle and a locker
be more than just getting a locker for my D60?
KO are you saying if I got larger than 35" tires
I should replace my axle shafts with 35 spline new ones?
And in doing that I would need to bore the inside
of the axle out? I may be way off I'm still learning here.
I like the suspnsion travel with my 6" lift. I wanna
keep it as a slight trail rig not a big mudder.
Wouldn't the cost of a different axle and a locker
be more than just getting a locker for my D60?
KO are you saying if I got larger than 35" tires
I should replace my axle shafts with 35 spline new ones?
And in doing that I would need to bore the inside
of the axle out? I may be way off I'm still learning here.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
The stock 30 spline D60 axle shafts are WEAK. A lot of people think the rear D60 is a strong axle because of the reputation of the front D60 which is misleading. The front D60's have 1.5" 35 spline INNER shafts which are strong but the outers are 30 spline wimpy shafts, just like the rear axle uses. If you lock an axle with big tires on a D60 rear you stand a very good chance of breaking a shaft. The 35 spline conversion requires having a machine shop bore the spindles which can be pricey and you have to buy the new shafts. By the time you do this would could have bought a new stronger axle. Then you still have to pay for the locker.
IMO the only thing I personally don't like about the 14 bolt axles is they hang really low. I don't think they're a good choice for a trail rig. I know they're cheap and plentiful and for a truck that would stick to pavement they're great but I'd opt for a D70 (preferably a D70U) or a Sterling myself.
IMO the only thing I personally don't like about the 14 bolt axles is they hang really low. I don't think they're a good choice for a trail rig. I know they're cheap and plentiful and for a truck that would stick to pavement they're great but I'd opt for a D70 (preferably a D70U) or a Sterling myself.
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,219
Likes: 2,676
From: GA
i was saying 14 bolt because it would be the cheapest route with a locker...but i personally prefer the dana 70 or sterling as well.
gyger....if you lock that rear you can pop a shaft with 35" or larger tires fairly easily....the shafts are the same size as a dana 44....no stronger than a 31 spline 9" or dana 44....if you pound on it a bit you can pop a shaft in the right situation fairly easily...i blew my stock rear 60 up with 39's on flat ground like it was nothing
basically....instead of polishing a turd....you need an axle that came with 35 spline 1.5" shafts stock...then all you have to do is clean it up, get it locked and throw it in your truck. make sure you get one with a gear ratio to match your front.
i told you we are a bad bad influence...it never ends
gyger....if you lock that rear you can pop a shaft with 35" or larger tires fairly easily....the shafts are the same size as a dana 44....no stronger than a 31 spline 9" or dana 44....if you pound on it a bit you can pop a shaft in the right situation fairly easily...i blew my stock rear 60 up with 39's on flat ground like it was nothing
basically....instead of polishing a turd....you need an axle that came with 35 spline 1.5" shafts stock...then all you have to do is clean it up, get it locked and throw it in your truck. make sure you get one with a gear ratio to match your front.
i told you we are a bad bad influence...it never ends
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
i was saying 14 bolt because it would be the cheapest route with a locker...but i personally prefer the dana 70 or sterling as well.
gyger....if you lock that rear you can pop a shaft with 35" or larger tires fairly easily....the shafts are the same size as a dana 44....no stronger than a 31 spline 9" or dana 44....if you pound on it a bit you can pop a shaft in the right situation fairly easily...i blew my stock rear 60 up with 39's on flat ground like it was nothing
basically....instead of polishing a turd....you need an axle that came with 35 spline 1.5" shafts stock...then all you have to do is clean it up, get it locked and throw it in your truck. make sure you get one with a gear ratio to match your front.
i told you we are a bad bad influence...it never ends
gyger....if you lock that rear you can pop a shaft with 35" or larger tires fairly easily....the shafts are the same size as a dana 44....no stronger than a 31 spline 9" or dana 44....if you pound on it a bit you can pop a shaft in the right situation fairly easily...i blew my stock rear 60 up with 39's on flat ground like it was nothing
basically....instead of polishing a turd....you need an axle that came with 35 spline 1.5" shafts stock...then all you have to do is clean it up, get it locked and throw it in your truck. make sure you get one with a gear ratio to match your front.
i told you we are a bad bad influence...it never ends
buy a winch for now. I want one anyway. I have to start putting
some serious money into. I'll call my local bone yard and see if I can
find a D70. I have 4.10 in the front.
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Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,219
Likes: 2,676
From: GA
how much do you drive this truck on the road??
for now you may consider just welding the rear spiders....the tire wear really isnt much different from a automatic locker on the road, trust me, ive ran both. and with a lwb truck you dont notice except making extremly tight turns
if you can weld it will cost you your time and wire/rod, or if you get it done it will be cheap, regaurdless you dont have much to loose, i would doit....you will see just how much capability having the rear locked will give you....you will have to beat on it pretty hard to bust that rear wth 35's....it should last till you get the $$ for a 1 ton and larger tires
for now you may consider just welding the rear spiders....the tire wear really isnt much different from a automatic locker on the road, trust me, ive ran both. and with a lwb truck you dont notice except making extremly tight turns
if you can weld it will cost you your time and wire/rod, or if you get it done it will be cheap, regaurdless you dont have much to loose, i would doit....you will see just how much capability having the rear locked will give you....you will have to beat on it pretty hard to bust that rear wth 35's....it should last till you get the $$ for a 1 ton and larger tires
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 247
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
how much do you drive this truck on the road??
for now you may consider just welding the rear spiders....the tire wear really isnt much different from a automatic locker on the road, trust me, ive ran both. and with a lwb truck you dont notice except making extremly tight turns
if you can weld it will cost you your time and wire/rod, or if you get it done it will be cheap, regaurdless you dont have much to loose, i would doit....you will see just how much capability having the rear locked will give you....you will have to beat on it pretty hard to bust that rear wth 35's....it should last till you get the $$ for a 1 ton and larger tires
for now you may consider just welding the rear spiders....the tire wear really isnt much different from a automatic locker on the road, trust me, ive ran both. and with a lwb truck you dont notice except making extremly tight turns
if you can weld it will cost you your time and wire/rod, or if you get it done it will be cheap, regaurdless you dont have much to loose, i would doit....you will see just how much capability having the rear locked will give you....you will have to beat on it pretty hard to bust that rear wth 35's....it should last till you get the $$ for a 1 ton and larger tires
I don't have anyway to weld but my neighbor does I'll ask him. Wouldn't
that be the same as having a locker? Didn't you say that it would be easy to break the shafts if I had a locked rear end on 35's?
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,219
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From: GA
a welded rear is the same as having a spool, ecxept it is much much cheaper
if you absolutly beat on the rear with it locked and 35 you could blow a shaft
bu tim talking about stuff like full throttle assaults up a wet rocky hill with tons of wheel speed, hopping up in the air and coming down with the throttle still on the mat and catching a root...stuff like that
you wont break it with light offroading or in th emud
if you absolutly beat on the rear with it locked and 35 you could blow a shaft
bu tim talking about stuff like full throttle assaults up a wet rocky hill with tons of wheel speed, hopping up in the air and coming down with the throttle still on the mat and catching a root...stuff like that
you wont break it with light offroading or in th emud
Its Comin Right for us!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 12,219
Likes: 2,676
From: GA
welded fronts just plain suck though!!! especially without steering assist of some sort, your sector shaft will only take so much of the strongarm crap
im still waiting on my e-locker, i cant wait
im still waiting on my e-locker, i cant wait
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